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New member, Buying a 2007 speedster 150 today. Help!

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Plugs are really easy to change, just get yourself some dielectric grease, and anti-sieze lubricant. Each of the cylinders have their own coil packs just like new cars these days. Do one plug at a time, unplug the wire connector from the coil pack, then just pull the whole coil pack straight up and out. Next take your spark plug socket and remove the plug.

To prepare the new plugs, gap them correctly, then remove the little nut cap thing on the top of the plug (necessary for them to fit into the coil packs, as you will find the old ones when they come out). Next apply a bit of dielectric grease around the white part of the plug where the rubber from the coil pack will sit, and then apply a little bit of anti-sieze lubricant on the threads of the plug and reinstall everything. I also like to apply a bit of dielectric grease to the coil wire connectors if there is none visible, helps keep water out and prevents rust and corrosion on the connectors. I like to apply these lubricants to boats since they are constantly in a moist environment, and the engine head is aluminum; piece of mind I guess.

Also, in case you do not already realize this... if you become a premium member to this forum you can download the shop/service manuals for your boat and motor. Seeing as you like to take on these projects yourself (like most of us) the service manuals are invaluable, and a good read to understand how these engines work. I have spent many hours looking through the manual to help me understand the peculiarities of these boats. Ok then...
 
So got the plugs changed today, that was VERY easy. I was told by the seadoo dealer the plugs were already gapped and bought the one outlined in the manual (he also told me there was a high performance iridium for double the price).

The old plugs that came out had a significant amount of oil which im assuming was the fogging oil and maybe too much was used. with the new plugs in, im going to take it out when weather permits and hope for the best again. at the same time letting everything dry out completly, i took a leaf blower to the bilge area today to try to get rid of any excess water that stuck around from the cleaning...

I started it up again and let it run a tiny bit on the trailer (idle was at 1700-1850 range), sounded good... then checked the oil, it seems like there is a bit too much in there. the manual says this can lead to problems (rough idle/no power) which i am having...

Still have yet to hear back about the winterization reciept from the previous owner... I am hoping a proper amount of fuel additive was used and this is not a bad fuel issue. I put about 60 litres of 94 octane gas in to fill it up which would hopefully cross that issue off the trouble shoot list.

What is my rpm supposed to sit at while idle?

I have downloaded the 2007 Sea-Doo Shop Manual - 4Tec already from elsewhere and going to start reading....

Thanks for everyones input and help, ill let you guys know whats up after the next lake trial.
 
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94 is probably overdoing it, but for the first tank it won't hurt.

The other plugs the dealer mentioned are good...... but at $9- $18 apiece, I would leave those for racers.

Premium membership I believe is about $59 a year or $10.99 a month. The year of course is better then you can come back anytime and get manuals and help faster
 
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I really wish i didnt start reading this manual, the "ENGINE MISFIRES, RUNS IRREGULARLY" is a long list and the "LACK OF POWER" seems endless....

irregularly.jpg
lacks.jpg
 
Glad to hear the plugs went in without a problem, and if they were fouled it sounds like you found your problem. The idle speed you mentioned seems right to me, from what I remember. Seadoobuddy, I believe that the 4-tec's idle the same in and out of the water unlike the 2-strokes which change rpm's as you stated. At least mine runs the same in and out of the water just under 2k rpm.

As for the oil, you should siphon any out if it is above the recommended level. Invest in a good fluid pump and siphon the oil out of the dip stick tube. Heck, you'll need one anyway if you plan on doing your own oil changes and saving yourself some $$$ (dealers can charge $125-$200 for oil changes).

I purchased this pump and think it works well: http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-Liter-Fluid-Evacuator/dp/B000JFJM14/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1336601393&sr=8-3

Hope everything goes well for the next lake test!
 
chermz: try Canadian tire for the pump, I bought a 12 volt with all the tubes for $39.00
Wander if you got a little condensation in the fuel tank as well over the winter seeing it was not full, always top up before cold storage , this will reduce the condensation over winter.You could put a little stabilizer in to deal with any water that may have occurred .
 
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In looking at your pics of the pump I would agree they are in great shape. Unless it's been swapped out those looked much "cleaner" than my 2008 with 50 ish on the hour meter. If you've got a good dealer close by and interested you might get them to hook it up to the BUDDS and give you the hours. They may charge you an hour of labor but let's you "sleep" at night and if you bought it for 11K what's $75 to know for sure. It also gives you a better shot from a legal perspective if they tell you something drastically different unless you have an "as is " contract that you signed.

Mine also spit and sputtered coming out of it's long winter nap. Swapped plugs and purred like a kitten. I'll lake test it Saturday and don't expect any surprises.
 
Scott0321 said:
In looking at your pics of the pump I would agree they are in great shape. Unless it's been swapped out those looked much "cleaner" than my 2008 with 50 ish on the hour meter. If you've got a good dealer close by and interested you might get them to hook it up to the BUDDS and give you the hours. They may charge you an hour of labor but let's you "sleep" at night and if you bought it for 11K what's $75 to know for sure. It also gives you a better shot from a legal perspective if they tell you something drastically different unless you have an "as is " contract that you signed.

Mine also spit and sputtered coming out of it's long winter nap. Swapped plugs and purred like a kitten. I'll lake test it Saturday and don't expect any surprises.
Click to expand...

Yes i am going to take it in to get it checked out for sure, peace of mind for $75 is a great deal! i have a feeling its legit though, the seller is by no means trying to avoid me. the bill of sale does not say "as is" but also does not say "running" either, it was just a verbal commitment and the guy seemed trustworthy and brought me directly to his home. EDIT: i just looked at the bill again, and i didnt even sign it, lol

How long should i "spit and sputter" around the lake before i give up? i dont want to cause more damage trying to let the boat resolve itself...

Got my fingers crossed, im going to try and take a video of the gauge so you guys can see and hear whats up.

I think im goign to buy a fuel filter just because, im replacing the seat plastic cones on the middle seat tomorrow and thats where the access point for it is, so i might as well just do that too...
 
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If you start it up on the trailer and it runs great, then it will run great in the water too. There's no difference in the 4tec motor in/out of water.
 
Last year I bought a 2003 sportster 4-tec w/ 12 1/2 hrs on it. Hours were confirmed because the seller was my bosses best friend. The original owner bought the boat new in 2005 as a intercoastal boat (his primary boat is a 28ft regulator) & decided the seadoo was too wet of a ride for him.
Long story short: I ran into a lot of the same things as you because the boat had been sitting for a few years when I got it. I gave the boat a full tune up last year & replaced steering cable. This year I replaced the revese cable. All in all though it has been a great boat for me. Hope you have the same luck I have had.
 
quick shock question

devonte007 said:
You also mentioned that the gas struts that hold up the engine hatch and the storage compartment at the helm are not working. This is completely normal. I had to replace all the gas struts on my boat last year. They just wear out over time. I would say most of us have had to replace them at one time or another. Search the threads for 'gas strut' and you will find helpful info on where to buy them. It is not very expensive or difficult to do.
Click to expand...

Quick side question regarding the helm storage cover gas shock, when you replaced it did the new shock do well at holding it open? Ours (2006 Sportster 150)could probably use replacement since the shock will fail to support the open compartment cover at the slightest breeze..
 
Yes the new gas strut I installed did work and fixed the problem. I used a direct Seadoo OEM replacement and still think it is a bit week, but much better than the original which would not hold the hatch open at all. If it is really windy the hatch may not stay open on its own, but for the most part it is not an issue.

If you want to go another route and order a gas strut that has more force and will hold the hatch open better than OEM read this thread: http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?47624-Speedster-150-storage-hatch-gas-spring-replacement&p=228739#post228739

Hope this helps!
 
Boat ran good. Big relief!
But kind of wish it went faster..... from what i been reading i was expecting around 50 mph???

idle @ 1800 rpm
top speed 43 mph @ 7200-7300 rpm with 0 passengers

thanks for everyones help!

now, i need more help.... to make this thing go FASTER!
 
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RFoster130 said:
Top speed of 43 with no passengers. How did you manage that? LoL
Click to expand...

lol, one driver, no passengers... is what i meant.. hah
but everywhere i read ppl are getting 50mph!
any ideas?

fuel filter? air filter? stretched throttle cable?
 
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I just went back to page 1 and saw your pics. Looks good. Check the speed with a gps. The speedos are off a bit.
 
i am going to take my gps with me next time, a friend of mine has a yamaha pwc that i was doing 72mph today (why my machine seemed so slow) and im wondering if its actually going faster then that and want to check using the gps as well... blasting by bass boats that seemed to be at top speed and dropped a few jaws

im also looking at buying this, any comments?
http://www.4-tecperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18_2&products_id=1179

what is this throttle cable stretch ive been reading about, something i should look at with 14 hours on my boat?
 
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48.5 mph gps verified.

Somehow, my gas cap went missing this weekend... is there any alternatives to buying to oem one that includes the neck and cap for $150?
 
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