Singledsupra
New Member
Yea, I had all of that out the other day adjusting the direction cable
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New boat to me, about to out in water. Anything I need to check?
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Singledsupra
New Member
Done with oiling system, too smokey. In realize I could adjust and get it dialed in but even though these aren't as bad as most 2 stroke oiling systems, I've seen too many posts on here that oiling caused blown engines. May as well remove that from the equation. Who sells the kit to delete? I couldn't find one. And I know it's variable, but even at 50:1 it's not bad. Peace of mind is well worth it to me.
That or I may just sell the thing, FedEx didn't get here today with my new temp sensor, punks! Was shipped, 2 hours away on Wednesday and still not here
I swear I'd sell it for $4000 as it sits.
DrHonda, the manual says to unplug black/white wire when setting idle timing(cranking), which wire? Says it goes to the idle box or something, can't remember the exact terms
Compression test is perfect, just thinking my family would enjoy a simple bowrider with I/O over basicly a jet ski boat, they don't like to play like I do and having a 18 day old baby, obviously the Mrs doesn't wanna play either lol
That or I may just sell the thing, FedEx didn't get here today with my new temp sensor, punks! Was shipped, 2 hours away on Wednesday and still not here
I swear I'd sell it for $4000 as it sits.
DrHonda, the manual says to unplug black/white wire when setting idle timing(cranking), which wire? Says it goes to the idle box or something, can't remember the exact terms
Compression test is perfect, just thinking my family would enjoy a simple bowrider with I/O over basicly a jet ski boat, they don't like to play like I do and having a 18 day old baby, obviously the Mrs doesn't wanna play either lol
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I think I'd remove the idle stabilizer box (item #16 in drawing - this thing plays with the ignition timing) and re-time ignition accordingly (box pulls timing? i forget exactly which way but you must time differently if running without box). The idle boxes are known funky,might check wire may be corroded though if you keep it.
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Singledsupra
New Member
Where exactly is it located sportster? And if it's removed, I'm assuming I set base timing differently . any idea the timing number I'm shooting for? Shit, I don't even knkw where Im supposed to be pointing the timing light to see a timing mark. The manual is very vague compared to a lot(like where is the ignition timing pointer, etc..
For instance, one section says "if idle is low, adjust screw b". That's the timing screw, why would they just say adjust it. I mean manuals are great and an engine is an engine but it took me 30 mins to find the freaking oil pump mark and I still have yet to find the casting mark!
For instance, one section says "if idle is low, adjust screw b". That's the timing screw, why would they just say adjust it. I mean manuals are great and an engine is an engine but it took me 30 mins to find the freaking oil pump mark and I still have yet to find the casting mark!
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I use a piston stop to locate TDC, mark the flywheel and use a dial-back timing light to check advance. You really need to follow the service manual procedure.
Come to think of it, that module adds advance at idle I believe, I have to read up on it b/c I see so few of them anymore. Yours (sportjet) might not have the idle stabilizer but we used to remove them. Sorry, it's been so long I'll try to locate a manual, I don't want to tell you the wrong thing.
You want to be careful with the ignition timing b/c if it's too advanced you'll roast a piston(s) of course. Seems to me the idle stabilizer added timing at low speed based on vibration. So say the motor sneezes I think the timing gets increased by that ridiculous box, we used to advance a few degrees I think.
But before making timing adjustments, it's critical to make sure you've got the correct procedure. I'll look and see what I can dig up.
Come to think of it, that module adds advance at idle I believe, I have to read up on it b/c I see so few of them anymore. Yours (sportjet) might not have the idle stabilizer but we used to remove them. Sorry, it's been so long I'll try to locate a manual, I don't want to tell you the wrong thing.
You want to be careful with the ignition timing b/c if it's too advanced you'll roast a piston(s) of course. Seems to me the idle stabilizer added timing at low speed based on vibration. So say the motor sneezes I think the timing gets increased by that ridiculous box, we used to advance a few degrees I think.
But before making timing adjustments, it's critical to make sure you've got the correct procedure. I'll look and see what I can dig up.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Singledsupra, There are so many different versions of those motors that's probably why I avoid them but hanging a timing light on the #1 cylinder might reveal flywheel marks assuming the factory provided them?
Here's a document that explains the various sensors used for the various years and revisions, the several I've timed I simply marked the flywheel referenced to TDC and set/confirmed WOT timing.
Come to think of it, the sportjet might not use the troublesome "idle stabilizer" due to there's no low speed shifting in and out of load going on.
http://www.mdmotors.ru/netcat_files...V6_EFI_Tehnicheskoe_ustroystvo_dvigateley.pdf
Here's a document that explains the various sensors used for the various years and revisions, the several I've timed I simply marked the flywheel referenced to TDC and set/confirmed WOT timing.
Come to think of it, the sportjet might not use the troublesome "idle stabilizer" due to there's no low speed shifting in and out of load going on.
http://www.mdmotors.ru/netcat_files...V6_EFI_Tehnicheskoe_ustroystvo_dvigateley.pdf
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
there isn't a timing mark on most of the engines. It's a tape. But, you can set TDC, and figure it out from there. If you get a light with a timing adjuster... then you don't need the tape on the engine. You adjust the light until the marks line up, and read it off the gun.
I understand your frustrations, but any older, used boat can have issues. Buying an I/O may get rid of the 2-stroke smoke... but that heavy drive has all of it's own issues. If you want a reliable boat... finance a new one. I know you are calling it a "Jet Ski Boat"... but really it's a Mercury outboard. (same engine, and gear case)
BUT.....
Once you work though the issues... then it can be reliable. Selling, and buying another used boat just means you start over.
The oil injection on an older merc does become marginal. The internal gear can give up. So, I'm not opposed to removing it on this engine. BUT, trying to keep a big fuel tank MIXED properly isn't easy. (it can separate, or may never get mixed in well) AND... people get busy, and it's known to happen where oil doesn't get mixed in. (so piece of mind isn't everything, or assured) Here again... just a new set a problems.
Anyway... to remove it... you don't need a kit. Just pull the pump from the engine... reach into the hole, and pull the little drive shaft out... and then put the pump back on the engine to block off the hole. That's it. If you want to cap the hoses... that's up to you. (easy)
I understand your frustrations, but any older, used boat can have issues. Buying an I/O may get rid of the 2-stroke smoke... but that heavy drive has all of it's own issues. If you want a reliable boat... finance a new one. I know you are calling it a "Jet Ski Boat"... but really it's a Mercury outboard. (same engine, and gear case)
BUT.....
Once you work though the issues... then it can be reliable. Selling, and buying another used boat just means you start over.
The oil injection on an older merc does become marginal. The internal gear can give up. So, I'm not opposed to removing it on this engine. BUT, trying to keep a big fuel tank MIXED properly isn't easy. (it can separate, or may never get mixed in well) AND... people get busy, and it's known to happen where oil doesn't get mixed in. (so piece of mind isn't everything, or assured) Here again... just a new set a problems.
Anyway... to remove it... you don't need a kit. Just pull the pump from the engine... reach into the hole, and pull the little drive shaft out... and then put the pump back on the engine to block off the hole. That's it. If you want to cap the hoses... that's up to you. (easy)
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Singledsupra
New Member
Great points guys, I guess with the I/O I've had so many and have spare parts for just about everything. I've got a ton of spare 2 stroke jet ski parts as well but all are from Yamaha lol.
As for the oil, yes, diligence is still needed. I use my boats a LOT during the season and travel about 25 miles one way and always load/unload so a quality oil should mix very well on the ride the ride there
As for the oil, yes, diligence is still needed. I use my boats a LOT during the season and travel about 25 miles one way and always load/unload so a quality oil should mix very well on the ride the ride there
Singledsupra
New Member
And Dr Honda, which hoses must be capped after removing the shaft?
Singledsupra
New Member
Still can't find the idle stabilizer.... Anyone?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Probably b/c there isn't one on sportjets, just follow the wiring diagram to find out for sure and if there is one remove it and toss it in the garbage next time you clean out the garage.
Then set WOT timing to 25 degrees while cranking with starter. A six-way spark gap or ground all 5 plug wires(to avoid damaging a switch box) and use a spark gap on #1 with a timing light to your 25 degree flywheel mark from CONFIRMED TDC pointer reference (Dial-back 25 degrees on a dial type light). Piston stop method or dial gauge through the plug hole to locate TDC and confirm pointer.
The motor fires a plug every 60 degrees, right? You can even make(or buy) a piece of tape if you don't have a dial-back light, just measure the flywheel diameter and circumference.
Singledsupra
New Member
It's a 240hp efi challenger, is the manual that far off? Hell it doesn't even state what idle timing is supposed to be lol
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
On the oil system?
You don't have to cap anything if you don't want to. Just leave everything hooked up. BUT... if it makes you feel better... pull the hose between the pump, and the vapor tank, and cap those 2 nipples.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
What manual are you looking at? If it's the boat manual... then it won't have anything on the engine. You need the Mercury manual. (pre 2001-1/2 240 EFI sportjet)
Singledsupra
New Member
I have the mercury service manual (says model 210/240 HP m2 jetdrivr with starting numbers oe373939) mine is serial number oe386925 so I'm sure it's the right one
Singledsupra
New Member
Ok. I found the specs, was in a different section of the manual. I'm still waiting for the dang sensor to get here, ordered Wednesday.
The beeping is apparently the boat fuel, anything less than half a tank and it beeps. Not sure what to do since the warning is based on the level, which is right.
Still have to figure out where the timing box is, maybe on back of engine where I can't see it? I see a black/white lead(that's tied into another) that looks like what the manuals calling for, but I'm not 100% sure since I can't see what it's connected too
The beeping is apparently the boat fuel, anything less than half a tank and it beeps. Not sure what to do since the warning is based on the level, which is right.
Still have to figure out where the timing box is, maybe on back of engine where I can't see it? I see a black/white lead(that's tied into another) that looks like what the manuals calling for, but I'm not 100% sure since I can't see what it's connected too
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
On the fuel level, that sensor signal must be going to the sentry system, the fix might be as easy as disconnecting the sensor from the sentry or possibly grounding that wire, whichever does the trick. That's one feature I could do without assuming it doesn't work properly, might be a fuel sensor calibration mismatch, maybe the sentry system is reconfigurable but I'm not sure.
Singledsupra
New Member
Where is the sentry system located? Anyone know? And does it work on inputs? If so are all normally open or closed?
What I'm getting at is if we knew what each input was, we could figure out why the alarm goes off vs guessing
What I'm getting at is if we knew what each input was, we could figure out why the alarm goes off vs guessing
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
There are several alarms on the boat and some of them are paralled, ground activated. Thus when a normal condition exists the wire floats high and when grounded a horn(buzzer) is activated..
I'm pretty sure this particular feature has a kneepoint voltage at which the sentry sounds the horn. This would be connected most likely to the gauge pink wire or possibly at the tank sender pink wire. The sentry might have an adjustable potentiometer to set the voltage kneepoint. In some cases the sentry might be built into the gauge. I'm not sure in this case.
Not sure where the sentry itself is on this boat but the fuel gauge sender wire should be pink. By grounding this wire at the sender the fuel gauge should read full scale. If disconnected from the sender the gauge should settle to empty position. If there are two pink wires at the gauge or two at the sender, one of them is going to the sentry that sounds the horn or buzzer once the voltage rises to indicate near empty tank.
Unfortunately on many sentries if the wire is disconnected the function is disabled (unfortunately not fail-safe). For this particular one you may need to disconnect from the live circuit and ground the wire leading to the sentry thus disabling the low fuel alarm.
How many warning buzzer piezo elements do you have, more than one? The fuel level sentry might be integrated into the gauge and if so, there's probably a hole in the rear of the gauge to access the warning level adjustment potentiometer?
Hopefully that makes sense?
I'm pretty sure this particular feature has a kneepoint voltage at which the sentry sounds the horn. This would be connected most likely to the gauge pink wire or possibly at the tank sender pink wire. The sentry might have an adjustable potentiometer to set the voltage kneepoint. In some cases the sentry might be built into the gauge. I'm not sure in this case.
Not sure where the sentry itself is on this boat but the fuel gauge sender wire should be pink. By grounding this wire at the sender the fuel gauge should read full scale. If disconnected from the sender the gauge should settle to empty position. If there are two pink wires at the gauge or two at the sender, one of them is going to the sentry that sounds the horn or buzzer once the voltage rises to indicate near empty tank.
Unfortunately on many sentries if the wire is disconnected the function is disabled (unfortunately not fail-safe). For this particular one you may need to disconnect from the live circuit and ground the wire leading to the sentry thus disabling the low fuel alarm.
How many warning buzzer piezo elements do you have, more than one? The fuel level sentry might be integrated into the gauge and if so, there's probably a hole in the rear of the gauge to access the warning level adjustment potentiometer?
Hopefully that makes sense?
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