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Need some help 1996 challenger 787

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sanpan25

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Hello:

I fired up the refreshed motor today, popped right off.

I straightened out the hosing on this boat it wasn't correct when i got it.

I got the oil pump working, wasn't when i bought it.

Some one had done some work, replaced the top end and did a half a$$ job. I straighened out all but a few things.

Question (#1)

On the transom there is a connection for a garden hose. Should this be capped duriing normal operation. (I am guessing yes, and this will explain this discolored paint on the exhaust) That and the sand blocking some of the cooling lines.


(#2 ) The carburator towards the bow of the boat leaks. ( Any ideas, rebuild or something else to look for?)


Everthing sounds good, eager to hit the water but still need to bolt the new upolstrey down.
 
G'day sanpan,
On my boat i also have the garden hose attachment under the transom, there is no cap on these attachments, but there is a cap on the connectors under the sundeck.
Obviously be careful if you have a leaky carby(booooom:() I would take them off and put carbie kits in them, if you don't find the leak is from one of the fuel lines.
 
If I do rebuild them where is the best place to get some kits? Is there anyone who I could send them too? I can do wonders on a Holley, never had one of these apart, and not sure what to look for?
 
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Water Outlet

Hi SANPAN,
GUNRUNNER is correct. The water outlet at the rear of the boat above the pump must NEVER be blocked off. When you are using the boat that outlet is how cooling water exits the engine after it cools it. Your flush connections on top of the boat MUST be capped off after you flush your engine or cooling water will exit thru them while your using your boat and cause it to overheat.
Good Luck,
DAWG
 
Jut to add to the conversation. I own a 1997 Challenger 787/ with 110 hp. The hose connection under the sun deck is the correct one to use to flush it out on land. The fitting out the rear is never to be used. When you start the engine turn on the water hose attached to the top fitting with the cap,( leave the cap in place when not flushing). The extra pressure will squirt out the rear fitting. If you use the rear one, you will take the chance of water flooding the engine. That rear hose, uncapped is allowing excess pressure to leave the cooling system. When your done turn off water.( never run engine for more than 5 minutes to keep jet pump from overheating, it isn't cooled out of the water.) Shut off engine, remove hose , replace the cap.
Before you figure you need rebuild kits for your carbs I would check them and see if it is leaking because the screws are loose. Rebuild kits are about $60.00 each or more..times 2 Carburetors. You might just need to clean the carbs and tighten all the screws.

Karl
 
Just to be clear...when using boat in the lake the hose connection in the stearn of the boat should be unplugged (not capped). Seems silly that they made it threaded if it never to be capped.
 
Question

Just a quick question......I have never used the connections under the sun deck, I always use the connections in the back. I found it easier, because the manual spoke of having to clamp off one hose when using the connections under the sun deck in order to not flood the engine. If this is true, which hose do you clamp?

Thanks,
Scott
 
flushing

Cooling System Flushing and
Engine Internal Lubrication
Flushing the cooling system with
fresh water is essential to neutralize
corroding effects of salt or other
chemical products present in water. It
will help to remove sand, salt, shells or
other particles in water jackets (engine,
exhaust manifold, tuned pipe)
and/or hoses.
Engine lubrication and flushing should
be performed when the jet boat is not
expected to be used further the same
day or when the jet boat is stored for
any extended time.
Proceed as follows:
1. Clean jet pump by spraying water in
its inlet and outlet and then spray a
soapy solution.
2. Connect a garden hose directly to
the flushing connector. To prevent
water leak, ensure the rubber
washer is in the boat's connector.
Do not open the water tap yet.
NOTE: A quick connect hose adapter
can be fixed to ease garden hose installation
to boat's connector.

NOTE: Either of the flushing connectors
can be used. The ones on the
transom, or the ones in the engine
compartment area. When using the
upper connector, it is necessary to
prevent water going out directly by
the connector on the transom. Install a
hose pincher (not supplied) (P/N 529
030 400) on the hose between the
transom and the T-fitting.
 
To add to that reply if you don't pinch off the hose and use the capped fitting under the sundeck/engine lid, the extra water pressure will devert out the rear transom fitting and not flood the engine with too much pressure. If you have low water pressure it will not allow too much to come out the rear connector. If the "tell tail" is squirting water, it is cooling the engine without excess pressure.

Karl
 
I've been reading up on the manual about flushing and found through this search a little confusion about where because the manual points to a port at the stern as well. The dealer flushed it from the top connection and from what I think the general consensus is, you flush from the "top" connection only? This should be sufficient? When flushing from the top the bottom has to be capped? Also, what about this lube? Do you need to squirt into spark plug holes after every use? Thanks
 
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