I just put my Doo back together after a carb rebuild and gray line replacement. I put water to it via garden hose to for initial startup post repair and noticed a large leak coming from the exhaust manifold gasket, which I had just replaced. Upon dis assembly of the exhaust, I discovered standing water inside the RAVE assambly, and in the carb venturies. I dried up all the visible water only to have it refill, which leads me to the deduction that the cylinders and crankcase are filled with water. What would be my next logical step (I am assuming a motor removal, dis assembly and re assembly) and how much can I do "in hull?"
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Need a little guidence
- Thread starter DQuinn
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cdnbikerdude
Member
Did you have the engine running when the hose was connected?
Remove the spark plugs and fire the engine over. The water should come out of the spark plug holes if there is any.
Remove the spark plugs and fire the engine over. The water should come out of the spark plug holes if there is any.
Nate Surveyor
New Member
SEQUENCES. SEQUENCES
1.) hook up hose
2.) start motor
3.) turn on hose
4.) run motor, but not too long, or too fast
5.) turn off hose
6.) turn off motor.
OTHERWISE, you get water in the motor, and that can hurt things.
N
1.) hook up hose
2.) start motor
3.) turn on hose
4.) run motor, but not too long, or too fast
5.) turn off hose
6.) turn off motor.
OTHERWISE, you get water in the motor, and that can hurt things.
N
cdnbikerdude
Member
Try and get it started (without the hose for now) Run it only for a few seconds without the hose though.
Once you get it running it is best to run it really "hard" to try and get all the water out. (do this in the lake)
Spray some WD-40 down the spark plug holes and put a rag over the top and crank the engine over. Then put the spark plugs back in until you get it running again.
You only need very low pressure hose water as well, not full blast.
Mike
Once you get it running it is best to run it really "hard" to try and get all the water out. (do this in the lake)
Spray some WD-40 down the spark plug holes and put a rag over the top and crank the engine over. Then put the spark plugs back in until you get it running again.
You only need very low pressure hose water as well, not full blast.
Mike
Taking your advise, I removed the spark plugs and sprayed WD 40 (each cylinder had about 2" standing water in them). I also removed the carbs, as they had standing water in them as well, dismantled them and sprayed with WD 40 allowing the moisture to emulsify and hopefully evaporate. I removed the reed valve assemblys, let some more water drain out and coated the intake area, as well as the accessible parts of the crank case with WD 40. I have the engine sitting apart, to allow all the emulsified moisture to evaporate and will re-assemble Tuesday (my next day off).
If any one has any other ideas or comments, let me have 'em
Thanks for all your help thus far.
If any one has any other ideas or comments, let me have 'em
Thanks for all your help thus far.
Nate Surveyor
New Member
Be sure you crank it over, without spark plugs, like cnbikerdude said.
You will surely hurt it, if there is enough water in it, when you hit the starter, with the plugs in it.
Get the water out and run it! The longer it stays wet, the poorer it will be. :agree:
Nate
You will surely hurt it, if there is enough water in it, when you hit the starter, with the plugs in it.
Get the water out and run it! The longer it stays wet, the poorer it will be. :agree:
Nate
The problem isn't so much about the water in the exhaust, but the water that got in the engine. I would get it fired up as quickly as possible so as not to lead to rust and corrosion and possible engine seizure. Remove the spark plugs and leave the caps on the grounding post. Turn the engine over to remove the water from the cylinders. Spray a little wd-40 in the cylinders to help displace the water. Hit the starter for a few seconds at a time letting it cool down abit while trying to get the water out. When it seems like all the water is out insert the spark plugs and get it started. Use the choke or a little fuel and injector oil as a premix to help fire it up. Don't use starting fluid. If it doesn't fire up repeat the procedure. Pull the spark plugs, hit the starter, insert spark plugs get it to fire up. Time is of the essence. the longer it takes to get it fired up the more chance of damage to the internal engine components. If you wait till tuesday it might be too late!
You can hook up the hose to the 2 stroke Rotax engine, and have it run for up to 5 minutes to flush it out. Connect the hose and start the seadoo. Turn on the water after it is started. Turn off the water, than shut down the seadoo. Always do it in this order.
Attach the garden hose, Leave the lid open with the blower running, so you can vent the compartment and allow the garden hose to fit properly. This also allows you to see the engine while it is running to check for cooling leaks. Start up the boat, turn on the water, in this order. Be sure water is coming out the “Tell Tale”.
You can run it for about 5 minutes at IDLE which should be at about 3000 rpm’s. When you’re done, turn off the Water FIRST, then pull of the Lanyard to kill the engine. This way it won't allow water to back flow into the engine through the exhaust due to no back pressure from the engine not running. The bearings and seals on the impeller jet pump are cooled from being in the water. When it is on the trailer it doesn't have that cooling effect so they will get hot after about 5 minutes.
I pre start my seadoo's, dry before I leave for the launch, but just for a second or 2 to be sure it will start at the launch. Peace of mind is worth a lot.
Karl
You can hook up the hose to the 2 stroke Rotax engine, and have it run for up to 5 minutes to flush it out. Connect the hose and start the seadoo. Turn on the water after it is started. Turn off the water, than shut down the seadoo. Always do it in this order.
Attach the garden hose, Leave the lid open with the blower running, so you can vent the compartment and allow the garden hose to fit properly. This also allows you to see the engine while it is running to check for cooling leaks. Start up the boat, turn on the water, in this order. Be sure water is coming out the “Tell Tale”.
You can run it for about 5 minutes at IDLE which should be at about 3000 rpm’s. When you’re done, turn off the Water FIRST, then pull of the Lanyard to kill the engine. This way it won't allow water to back flow into the engine through the exhaust due to no back pressure from the engine not running. The bearings and seals on the impeller jet pump are cooled from being in the water. When it is on the trailer it doesn't have that cooling effect so they will get hot after about 5 minutes.
I pre start my seadoo's, dry before I leave for the launch, but just for a second or 2 to be sure it will start at the launch. Peace of mind is worth a lot.
Karl
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Are the rod and main bearings "sealed" from the water in the crank case? If so, how do they lubricate?
I am quite new to the world of two stroke, smaller engines as you may have guessed. I have, for several years however been an automotive "gear head," so the concepts are not new to me at all, just the subject is a little different, so any suggestions or tid bits of knowledge helps.
Thank you all for your help!!
I am quite new to the world of two stroke, smaller engines as you may have guessed. I have, for several years however been an automotive "gear head," so the concepts are not new to me at all, just the subject is a little different, so any suggestions or tid bits of knowledge helps.
Thank you all for your help!!
In a 2 stroke all the bearings and Rods are exposed to the water or anything that is in the cylinders. A 2 stroke gets it lube from the oil injector/premix. everything that enters the cylinders contacts the bottom end, so it is important to get the water out ASAP! Unlike a 4 stroke where it has oil in the bottom, a 2 stroke depends on fuel oil mix to lube everything.
Karl
Karl
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