My first set of Sea-doo's, what to do?

[msebastian787]

I got one side of the skis done wet sanding. There is no longer any signs of the faded area around the removed decals. I worked all the way up to 2000 grit from 600. Once I get the other side done I will attempt the JSG buffing/polishing method again. I did burn through the lower hood but now I have a reason to paint it black or wrap it. I ultimately want the ski to be black and red with some carbon fiber pieces.

 

[snikwad003]

Check out the XPDI stock graphics

 

[Ankeneyou]

My favorite parts place is OSDparts.com, great guy and he's right here in Ohio.

 

[msebastian787]

I wanted to share some of the photos I took to show the bad and the good of the ski.

THE BAD:
Primer that was added to the side of the ski instead of replacing the OEM one.

Grey fuel lines that are getting replaced

The bilge pump switch that was added and the faded hull

The bilge pump that was added and the wiring secured to the VTS box

THE GOOD:
The VTS motor (The electrical box looks just as nice inside)

So I was happy to open the VTS cover and see that the motor looked so good. But one of the clips on the box is broken and there is the bilge pump wiring mounted to the cover. So I think I am going to get a new cover for the VTS motor as well as getting the new boot and plastic clamps. When I opened up the electrical box I was also pleasantly surprised at how nice and corrosion free it was in there as well. I am planning on taking out the rave valves and giving them a clean as well. I found out that $30 for the pair to replace the gasket, o-ring, and bellow. I started realizing how expensive these things are to maintain. I have 2 skis that need practically the same things done before they hit the water. I just don't know what the PO did before I got them and thanks to you guys I am getting a list together.

 

[msebastian787]

I took off the rave valves on the XP and they were fairly clean. I really didn't need to do a lot of cleaning on them. The housing will be getting cleaned up tomorrow and the o-rings will be replaced. I ordered a set of 5 new OEM gaskets from eBay, enough to do both skis and I am sure I can get the o-rings at my hardware store. I also ordered new grips, new VTS housing cover, and a new VTS boot with upgraded clamps for the XP. I'm going to get Mobil 1 75/90 full synthetic oil for the jet pump oil change for both skis. I also need to stop by Napa and get the new fuel lines tomorrow.

This is my list you guys gave me and I am knocking it out:

Compression test - Will be done when I can get my compression tester back from my dad.
Change grey fuel lines with automotive fuel line - Getting them tomorrow
Rebuild carbs with genuine Mikuni parts - The skis run fine is this necessary right now?
Change the oil filters - Where are these located?
Replace the fuel valves and strainers - Where are these located?
Verify API-TC full synthetic oil - Going to pump all old oil out and start fresh
Change the small 3/32" oil injection lines - What size lines do I go with?
Change the jet pump oil - Will be done when it warms up outside
Grease the driveshafts/PTO - X
Rave Valve clean - X

 

[snikwad003]

The best way to burn up one or both of your 787s is to run them lean, like from gummed up carbs, especially with those gray fuel lines and the green goo I'm sure you will find:cheers: or from plugged fuel selector valve, or from dirty fuel strainer/ bad o ring on fuel strainer cup.

 

[Ankeneyou]

You absolutely need to tear the carbs down and inspect them. If the are clean (which I doubt with gray lines), you could get away with a thorough cleaning but I would still suggest full rebuilds including upgrading to Viton needles to resist the ethanol fuel.

The fuel selector is the knob you turn for fuel on/off/reserve. Those gooey gray lines clog them up and even though you can clean them the internal seals can leak air, causing a lean condition and blow the engine.

Your list looks great just check impeller and wear ring when you are changing pump oil. You'll want to replace the neoprene pump seal as well when you reassemble. Both of your skis have the 140mm pump.

As I mentioned earlier OSD parts is a great resource for most common wear items, I get all my carb rebuild kits there. If you need other OEM stuff this place is about 10-20% cheaper than any of the other online microfiches powersportsparts4less.com

I know all those maintenance can seem a bit overwhelming, especially with 2 skis but this will help to ensure you have years of trouble free fun with them. I don't ride any ski I buy without at minimum going 100% through the entire fuel system first. It's that important to the health of a 2 stroke.

Just make sure you get that compression test done as item #1. You don't want to be spending money on a ski if it needs a rebuild. If compression is low you'll have to decide if it's worth the expense of to rebuild.

 

[jjsinaz]

I would not recommend using O rings from the hardware store on the RAVE valve stems, as they are not meant for the high temperatures that occur in the RAVEs and will most likely melt.. Be sure to get the correct O rings for that application. Also be sure that the RAVE bellows are properly seated and fit tightly. If they blow off, the entire assembly melts from the excessive heat cause by exhaust gases flowing through there (Exhaust gases aren't meant to flow, just create enough pressure to raise the valve) Learned this lesson by experience.

 

[msebastian787]

The best way to burn up one or both of your 787s is to run them lean, like from gummed up carbs, especially with those gray fuel lines and the green goo I'm sure you will find:cheers: or from plugged fuel selector valve, or from dirty fuel strainer/ bad o ring on fuel strainer cup.

Got it and I will look into everything.

 

[msebastian787]

You absolutely need to tear the carbs down and inspect them. If the are clean (which I doubt with gray lines), you could get away with a thorough cleaning but I would still suggest full rebuilds including upgrading to Viton needles to resist the ethanol fuel.

The fuel selector is the knob you turn for fuel on/off/reserve. Those gooey gray lines clog them up and even though you can clean them the internal seals can leak air, causing a lean condition and blow the engine.

Your list looks great just check impeller and wear ring when you are changing pump oil. You'll want to replace the neoprene pump seal as well when you reassemble. Both of your skis have the 140mm pump.

As I mentioned earlier OSD parts is a great resource for most common wear items, I get all my carb rebuild kits there. If you need other OEM stuff this place is about 10-20% cheaper than any of the other online microfiches powersportsparts4less.com

I know all those maintenance can seem a bit overwhelming, especially with 2 skis but this will help to ensure you have years of trouble free fun with them. I don't ride any ski I buy without at minimum going 100% through the entire fuel system first. It's that important to the health of a 2 stroke.

Just make sure you get that compression test done as item #1. You don't want to be spending money on a ski if it needs a rebuild. If compression is low you'll have to decide if it's worth the expense of to rebuild.

I will definitely be changing the selector on both and I will look into the carbs and the wear ring when I change the pump oil.

 

[msebastian787]

I would not recommend using O rings from the hardware store on the RAVE valve stems, as they are not meant for the high temperatures that occur in the RAVEs and will most likely melt.. Be sure to get the correct O rings for that application. Also be sure that the RAVE bellows are properly seated and fit tightly. If they blow off, the entire assembly melts from the excessive heat cause by exhaust gases flowing through there (Exhaust gases aren't meant to flow, just create enough pressure to raise the valve) Learned this lesson by experience.

I ordered new ones and will replace them before I start the ski up. I put it all back together today and made sure they were seated in the groove. Thanks

 

[msebastian787]

Well I was busy today. I finished rebuilding the rave valves on the XP and installed them. I will have to take them back apart to replace the o-ring and gasket when they come in. But I cleaned them thoroughly and made sure they went back together properly.

I also got the XP fully wet sanded from 600 - 2000 and got one side buffed/polished with the JSG method and it is like a mirror. No more faded sticker areas at all. I am going to try and get the other side done tomorrow. I also went and got the new fuel lines so I will be replacing the grey ones this week. And I will be replacing parts with new ones as they come in.

 

[msebastian787]

Oh yeah, I also wanted to see how the hull would polish up since it is so faded. I worked in a small area and went through all the compounds and it is a mirror finish also. So I am pretty happy with those results and I am looking forward to seeing it all polished.

I want to try and have the XP pretty much ready this week with the exception of a few big things that are on my list like carbs and jet pump oil change. But I will get everything done before I hit the water.

 

[msebastian787]

So I got the XP buffed out and now I want to move onto painting the hood that I sanded thru. I have all of the wiring disconnected and I have the throttle linkage and the steering linkage left. The throttle linkage will be no problem to remove. So how do I remove the steering linkage? I don't see an easy way to do so. I am starting to think I should paint the hood on the ski and not try and remove it. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[msebastian787]

Forget the post above I got it off much easier than I thought I would. Gonna sand it down tomorrow and fix a few nics and hit it with some primer and paint.

I also want to add some tunes to the ski since the lake we go to has all kinds of cool boats and skis with loud stereos and big engines and there are lots of places to pull into with the boat/skis and just hang out. Hell there is a boat/ski drive thru McDonald's. So I have been looking at this system https://www.sharkmotorcycleaudio.co...audio-system-w-2-remotes-fm-sd-usb-bluetooth/. I want to make it so that everything is incorporated in the hood. That way when you open the hood there is no wires hanging down or running into the engine bay. A separate motorcycle battery that I have fits perfectly in the upper hood area (Black waterproof box) and that is where I would mount the amp as well. The speakers would mount something like this facing me:

Let me know what you think or if another location would be better for mounting.

 

[mikidymac]

That will work for a stereo but you will have to charge the battery separately every day. These skis don't have an alternator like a car they barely put out enough power to keep the starting battery charged.

 

[Ankeneyou]

Ski looks great. As far as a stereo I just take a good Bluetooth portable speaker along with me. My favorite is the UE Boom. I don't want to drill holes in my ski or deal with a dead battery.

Where do you ride that had a McDonald's drive through? Indian lake or Ceasars creek?

 

[msebastian787]

That will work for a stereo but you will have to charge the battery separately every day. These skis don't have an alternator like a car they barely put out enough power to keep the starting battery charged.

I would be running a separate motorcycle battery that is not connected to the ski's battery. I will have to charge it regularly to ensure the music don't stop but it should be good for 6-10 hours before needing re-charged.

 

[msebastian787]

Ski looks great. As far as a stereo I just take a good Bluetooth portable speaker along with me. My favorite is the UE Boom. I don't want to drill holes in my ski or deal with a dead battery.

Where do you ride that had a McDonald's drive through? Indian lake or Ceasars creek?

The ski in my awesome drawing is not my ski. I used it for reference since my ski is tore apart. I thought about doing a water resistant Bluetooth speaker but don't know if it would be loud enough at WOT. I am probably going to go with the 2 speaker set up instead of 4. I don't mind drilling into that area since plastic is easier to fix than fiberglass. I would be running a separate battery for the stereo. Is your portable loud enough to hear at WOT or is it more for when just cruising around.

I have only been there a few times and never on my own watercraft nor have I been thru it or seen it myself but I was told Indian Lake has a McDonald's drive thru for boats/skis at Russel's Point. I will find out for sure this year.

 

[Ankeneyou]

My speaker is really just use for when I'm hanging out or swimmimg. I've used it once or twice cruising on an x4 but it was harder to hear inside of the hood.

I've never seen the drive through at that mcdonalds but have parked a ski and walked up to it before. My buddy's family actually owns Froggys bar on the lake with the swim up pool bar. I don't go there often as the lake is so shallow and choppy it's not any fun. The XPL makes it a little easier with the suspension seat though. That whole lake averages about 5ft of depth.

 

[msebastian787]

So I got all of my fuel lines replaced on the XP today with the Napa non fuel injection fuel lines. I did not realize their were 5/16 fuel lines as well so I had to make a trip up to Napa. I also only used around 13' of 1/4 and about 4' of the 5/16. I didn't really notice any green goo except for a small bit around the throttle bodies and fuel selector. But everything looked really clean and all the filters were clean and even the fuel selector was relatively clean. I really just did a quick clean of everything and put it all back together. It still runs like a champ just like before the fuel line swap. I am not doing any of this on the GTX except for checking the filters since it does not have the tempo lines. Compression check on the XP showed 152/153 and 154/156 on the GTX. So what left on my to do list is below.

Still don't know what size the oil injection lines should be changed 2 and how many oil filters per ski?

Compression test - X
Change grey fuel lines with automotive fuel line - X
Rebuild carbs with genuine Mikuni parts - X
Change the oil filters -
Replace the fuel valves and strainers - X
Verify API-TC full synthetic oil - X
Change the small 3/32" oil injection lines -
Change the jet pump oil -
Grease the driveshafts/PTO - X
Rave Valve clean - X

 

[snikwad003]

1 oil filter per ski and what do you mean about the oil injection lines? They stay 3/32" if that's what your asking

 

[msebastian787]

So I completed my list finally and finished up the XP. It has been fully buffed, polished, and waxed. The hood, upper hood lid, and rear hatch have all been painted black. I put all the new stuff on like badge, grips, buttons, VTS cover inside the ski, and the VTS cover with updated clamps on the back of the ski. All fluids have been changed and filters replaced or cleaned. It is put back together and just about ready to go. I just need to get new registration numbers and traction mats. I will post up pictures on the next nice day since I just finished it tonight. Here is the completed list.

Compression test - X
Change grey fuel lines with automotive fuel line - X
Rebuild carbs with genuine Mikuni parts - X
Change the oil filters - X
Replace the fuel valves and strainers - X
Verify API-TC full synthetic oil - X
Change the small 3/32" oil injection lines - X
Change the jet pump oil - X
Grease the driveshafts/PTO - X
Rave Valve clean - X

Plus my beepers are not beeping in either ski but the gauges work and they start. Will I need to replace the beepers.

 

[msebastian787]

Here are some crappy cell phone pics that I snapped last night in the garage. You can still see that shine and get an idea of all the work done.

 

[msebastian787]

I finally got the skis out and had some fun for a bit. Unfortunately the fun only lasted about 10 minutes for the XP and 30 min for the GTX. Both skis broke down within 30 minutes. So I have questions for you guys for some fixes.

On the XP I used silicone and filled the holes from where I took off the old mats. Well my silicone didn't hold up and it was supposedly waterproof. It had weeks of set up time so that was not the issue. Can anyone recommend to me what they used when they took off their old mats to fill the holes. I about lost this ski and I was lucky I was at Indian Lake where the whole lake is about 4 foot deep or it would be gone.

On the GTX the rear steering nozzle snapped. I was wondering if they make a metal nozzle instead of the plastic nozzle (I already did a search but came up with nothing.) Plus I need to know where to get at least one new bolt for the bottom of the nozzle.

I didn't have any major issues other than the XP taking on too much water and almost sinking. Both skis ran great and still start and run fine. I think the fixes will be easy and I can get the skis back out in a week or so. Thanks for any help you can recommend.