Motor Swap

[slowridin03]

Mechanic called today to let me know that the motor in the 99 GTI is locked up He told me there was water in the case and it has been there at least 2 years... which has caused some nasty pitting and the block is trashed as well.

I called SBT and can get the rebuilt motor for $900 shipped w/ my core sent back to them.

Now, I have mechanic skills, just have never dealt with any marine engines. How much of a headache would it be for me to pull my motor and place the new? Mechanic quoted near what the motor cost :boxing_smiley:

 

[timmyboy76]

got time?

then, go get ski, pull plugs, remove the grey cover from back of motor, and turn the round disk(pto). If it turns, then have charged battery, ground out the plug wires, and crank motor til all is out.
If it doesnt turn, then, either, yeah the motor is locked up, or the pump is seized. So, i'd pull the pump, and then turn motor, if doesnt turn, yeaj, motor locked, but not throw towel in yet. Go auto store, get PB-BLASTER, spray crap load of it, in plug holes, and let sit for few days. Maybe it'll eat its way thru the rust, and free ur up.
If that doesnt work, re-post, and sure, a member, if interested will walk the steps in order to pull the motor for SBT. Its worth it, and not spend the additional 900 buks, for 1 hr job.

 

[slowridin03]

Thanks for the info timmyboy!

Got the ski home, tried turning PTO and it turned...

Stuck new battery in... Put lanyard on post, NO BEEPS, NO NOISE (but the light came on under the oil gauge) but his the start button anyway and it tried to crank. It would turn over about a half a turn, click then do it again. pulled both plugs out (brand new btw) and hit the start and it spun freely and did not spew out a single drop of water.

So, now what? Besides do not take it back to that mechanic!!

 

[timmyboy76]

NICE.....those mechanics can kick roks (lack better terms..:reddevil
Alright, i'd, with some time, CHECK all wires EVERYWHERE and cables and grounds, for bad terminal ends, broken/corroded ends under the "heat-shrink" (found mine to be broken there, at starter). Once A.O.K. with all that, re-check the fuses, and then get old gas out, put new in, depend'n on how many gals, mite wanna add few oz. of premix, just to help out bottom end get'n lubed, that is, if oil injection system still hooked up.
Other than that stud, make sure battery is 100% charged and GOOD (get load tested, to be sure) and from there, install new NGK plugs, homey, and fire it up...Wouldnt worry about BEEP,BEEP...can replace those buzzers, with ones at Radio Shack for 10 buks...:cheers:

 

[seadoosnipe]

Another hungry mechanic!

:agree: with timmyboy but would like to add; when you can get this to roll over, as you say you can with the plugs out, you need to get a compression gage and test your compression. If you don't have one, you can go to Autozone or Advanced Auto parts and buy one. They are cheap, about $25 bucks. You screw the end into your plug hole and turn it over several times till the gage stops moving. Do this about 3 times to both cylinders. A healthy engine will have anywhere between 110 and 150 psi. The pressure's are so bad, as long as your above 100. The split between the two are whats most important. If you have about 10 psi or more in difference between the two readings, then you got some problems.

When you put the lanyard post on, you say you don't get any beeps. KustomKarl has found a 12 volt type beeper at Radio Shack that's usable with our skis, so I'd go get and replace the other one. The reason why is because if you can't get a start, the beeps or buzzes will give us a clue if there is any other problem.:cheers:

 

[slowridin03]

Do I keep the other cylinder open while checking compression or put the plug back in? I had planned on doing this today already, it will be my tell-tell sign I hope...

I called the mechanic back just to verify what he saw/did... He said the case itself has pits in it, but the cylinder walls and such were okay. He said the bearings were seized up, so i put an ounce of motor oil in it last night and am letting it sit to see if it helps any. I have the means to do a motor swap, but that is my last resort...

Why would a pitted case mean catastrophe if all of the internals were okay?

 

[seadoosnipe]

You called him out!...

You called him out. He's going to give you any line now that he thinks you'll believe. I would have nothing else to do with this guy. Outside pitting is normal. It's called, "age".

Most do the test one cylinder at a time with one in, one out. But, if your starter is weak like I suspect, it'll probably be easiest for you to leave them both out. Remember to put the plug wires on the ground lugs.

 

[slowridin03]

welp.... did the compression test...

80 in the front cylinder... 150 in the rear

looks like i get to start tearing down the motor... hopefully a set of rings and a cylinder hone and i will be set... hoping its nothing major

 

[timmyboy76]

tear down...

may just get away with, hone in bad side, and new piston, and BLAM...perfect ski again.

 

[slowridin03]

got the motor out and snapped a few pics... this is as far as I got today:


Left cylinder had 150 psi... right had 80

\

pic of good cylinder:

pic of bad cylinder:

there is a knick in the top of the cylinder in the bottom left and the rings look shot:

cylinder walls look better than I expected... anything you see that I didnt recognize?

 

[timmyboy76]

i'd pull the bad cylinder off, get it honed, and install new standard size piston...look on top, you'll see the # on good piston.
Go thru carbs...should be good to go, then.

 

[slowridin03]

I hope to have the cylinder off tonight to make sure everything else checks out okay. While I am at it, what all should I look at replacing (gaskets, etc.) I want to get this thing going while spending as little as possible, but do not want to be doing this again anytime soon, so I might as well get it all now! Where is the best place to look for pistons, rings, seals, etc.?

Also, while I have the space to clean the inside of the ski up, what is a good degreaser to use? Can I use just basic brake cleaner and towels? Or is that a no-no on fiberglass? What about on the motor itself?

 

[timmyboy76]

what is it you wanna do...rebuild it completely..crank, pistons..etc, OR, just get it run'n..piston, gaskets, and that'll work?

If goin, the complete rebuild route...have gander at this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sea-...30339874081QQptZPersonalQ5fWatercraftQ5fParts