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long beep

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nerdlinger

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Can one long beep when trying to start be something besides the overheat sensor?

I get two beeps when installing the lanyard, that fine, but then I get the one long beep. I changed the temp sensor and checked the wires, but it still does it.
 
How long after the two short beeps is this happening? If you leave the lanyard on too long before starting, it will give you the long beep. You then have to remove the lanyard and reinstall.
 
Not sure if it will help, but check out this thread from a couple days ago listing what each pattern of beeps means. It is from the 96XP book, so hope it works for yours as well.

EDIT--Oooops, forgot to post the link.

May as well just cut and paste the text...

Monitoring Beeper Coded Signals
NUMBER OF BEEPS POSSIBLE CAUSE REMEDY

2 short (while installing safety
lanyard on DESS post).
• Everything is correct with the
safety lanyard (good contact
and right lanyard cap).
• Engine can be started
normally.

1 long (while installing safety
lanyard on DESS post or when
pressing start/stop button in
some cases).
• Bad connection between
safety lanyard cap and DESS
post.
• Remove and reinstall the
safety lanyard on the DESS
post. Two short beeps
should be heard which
indicates the system is ready
again to allow engine
starting.

• Wrong safety lanyard. • Use the safety lanyard that
has been programmed for
the boat. If it does not work,
refer to an authorized dealer.

• Salt water in safety lanyard
cap.
• Clean safety lanyard cap with
fresh water to remove salt
water.

• Improper operation of
MPEM or defective wiring
harness.
• Refer to an authorized dealer.

4 short (while pressing
start/stop button with safety
lanyard already installed).
• Shifter is NOT in neutral. • Place shifter in neutral. While
moving the shifter, 1 short
beep indicates you reached
the neutral position.

1 short (while moving shifter
to neutral).
• Confirmation that shifter is
now in neutral.
• Engine is now ready to be
started

8 short. • Defective MPEM (memory). • Refer to an authorized dealer.

Continuous. • Engine overheating. • Refer to Engine Overheats
below.
 
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the long beep while trying to start means the battery has gone below the threshold. you need a stronger battery or to fix/improve connections.
 
I disconnected and reconnected the module with the temp sensor wires from the MPEM and now it doesn't beep any longer. It probably just reset the sensor. It still won't start though. Two beeps when the lanyard is attached, then just get clicks from the solenoid when I try to start it and the engine doesn't turn at all.

I've got the shop manual, and I went through this earlier this year with the non-starts, and turned out being that the starter was loose because of a broken mounting bolt. The starter was removed, reinstalled and running strong since the fix. The ski was fine until I had the temp sensor problem, but now this.

The starter is still solidly in place and the ground and positive terminal are good. Fuses are good (5A in electrical box and the 5 others in the MPEM). Electrical boxes are pristine. Battery fully charged. I actually have two batteries (one is new, the other a year old), that I swap out as the other is on a trickle charger. New plugs went in with the temp sensor. Solenoid new when I fixed the starter problem.

Any ideas?
 
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If you're getting voltage to the starter and it's not doing anything(and the engine turns over freely by hand), then you have a starter problem.
 
There is no access to the flywheel to see if the engine turns by hand. I'll see if the pistons move by pressing down on the them through the plug holes. Would that be the same as turning the flywheel?

Ill try to get a multimeter reading on the starter voltage, too. Positive lead on the positive terminal obviously, but does it matter where I ground it?
 
ground is ground, doesn't matter where.

there is a couple of inches where the driveshaft can be grabbed and turned right where it goes through the fuel tank, make sure the plugs are out and it still isn't easy but you'll get it. you can also disconnect the black metal pto cover and slide it back, then it's simple.

make sure to check your ground connections, especially at the motor.
 
still not starting.

I checked all connections with a multimeter and they are all great. There is no corrosion. I tried jumping the starter directly from a car battery and it did nothing. I opened a new thread on that called "jumping a starter" since I want as much info as possible before going through the tedium of removing the starter again.
 
So, have you determined that the engine turns by hand with the spark plugs out?

Mine did just this a few weeks ago, and I found that the starter shaft was a little bent and jambed into the flywheel.

Engine would not turn over, beeps, just a click, and nothing. Strong battery, good grounds, etc.

If the engine feels seized, then pull the starter and see if it frees up. If it frees up with starter out, inspect and/or replace starter.
 
I removed the intake grate and turned the driveshaft easily by hand with the plugs out.

The voltage to the starter when I hit the start but is about 12 Volts. I don't have a digital multimeter, but the needle jumps to the same position when I test the start as it does when I test the battery. It looks like its the starter. I'll get it pulled and check it out and re-post what I find. Thanks for everyone's input.
 
bad starter

I pulled the starter and bench tested it. It turned very slowly and sluggishly. There was a lot of black soot and it had an awful burn smell to it. I cleaned it up and greased the hell out of it, but it still doesn't turn well. The brushes are in good shape and there is no corrosion whatsoever. I guess that must mean the armature is bad, in which case it's time for a new starter. :(
 
you shouldn't add much grease, just a little bit at on each end at the bearing. no grease near the brushes. make sure the springs behind the brushes work well and armature is shiny copper clean and dry with all brushes resting on them.
 
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