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long beep then nothing but idle speed

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Beach81959

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We were out on our second cruise with our new to us 2005 Sportster LE DI, she ran fine for about 1 1/2 hours, while on our way into the ramp, we got a long (2-3 second) warning beep, and the engine went to idle (limp home mode) and would not rev up at all but did idle smooth. Each time I tried to rev up, the beep would happen again. I figured overheat. got the boat home and with the engine cool I still get the beep after the normal 2 system check beeps. even with the engine off I get the long beep. I checked the 2 temp sensors, both are a little out of range, 1-2 hundred ohm off, I figure just age, and checked both TPS's, the PTO side again is off a little but the mag side is way off (1000 ohm below spec). The RAVE solenoid checks out of range also. I don't want to just start changing sensors and my local Seadoo shop doesn't work on the sport boats anymore and I don't have access to a CANDOO PRO, yet. Anyone ever have an experience like this. I try to do all my own work only because I don't trust any of the local marinas, they don't have the experience with jet boats and just guess and change parts. If I do that, it's ok because I not paying someone labor to be wrong again and again. Any insight would be appreciated.
Thanks

Rob

Anyone on Long Island NY have a CANDOO PRO, I'd be willing to pay for your time and effort to scan my system and clear any codes, maybe also program a spare DESS key cap
 
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Did you check for over temp?

Did you check the oil level??

Is the fuel low? (under 1/4 tank)



It could be something basic like that.
 
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Hi Tony

Thanks for the quick reply,
The fuel tank was between 3/4 and full, same with the oil tank, although the oil tank sensor does turn on the light occasionally for no apparent reason, a light tap on the tank turns it off,a new sensor is on its way. Unfortunately there is no temp gauge so I'm not sure but I did have good flow from the discharge just below the tow stern tow loop and that was just warm not hot, so not sure on the over temp. If I was to add an engine temp gauge, where should I plumb it in?

Thanks

Rob
 
OK.... we don't really need a gauge for the temp. If you suspect an over temp issue... then simply pop the hatch, and touch the head, and the first elbow on the exhaust. Normally... it will be the same as warm/hot bath water. So... it shouldn't burn. If you touch it, and you have to pull back... that's too hot. As long as you can touch it for a few seconds without discomfort... you are fine.

FYI... I just did that with my own boat last week. We ran up to our favorite swimmin' hole... and after I shut off... I pop'ed the hatch, and put my had on the cyl heads. That's the fastest way to know that my engine was fine. (it had been sitting for a long time)


The other reason I say a gauge isn't needed is because the sender could be bad... and your secondary gauge may say things are fine.

Oh... on the RFI... there is an exhaust temp sender, and they have a tendency of going bad.

If it was my toy... I would pull both temp senders and check them. You can do it in the house, with a thermometer, a pot of water on the stove, and a multy-meter. Just hook the meter to the sender, and turn the heat on the pot of water. Just watch the temp, and the meter to see if it's in spec.




BUT............


Your comments about the oil sender is probably where the issue lies. If the MPEM thinks the oil is low... it will go into limp mode.
 
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The sensor is scheduled to be delivered today so I'll try that first. when we were on our way in, I felt the discharge water coming out below the tow rope ring above the platform and it was coolish bath water temp so i didn't think overheat but I checked both sensors with a meter last night and both are out of range but not by much, I went by the temp to resistance conversion chart in the seadoo manual, the temp was 90 deg. F. and they were reading as if it were 110 deg. F., both were within 10 ohms of each other but out of range. I was concerned with the way out of range reading i got on the mag side TPS, could that give me no throttle response, I mean it wont go up 100 rpm from idle, it like the cable is disconnected (i checked, it's not) LOL

Thanks
 
Yes a TPS out of range will cause all sorts of issues for FI engines. If it was out of spec it will not return the proper voltage reading to the ECU and therefore the computer will not be able to administer the proper fuel mapping causing it to be lean or rich.
 
Of course, the new oil tank sender arrived today but its pouring like Noah was coming to town so maybe a little later after the arc passes through I'll change it out and see if I can get anything above idle speed. thanks for all the help guys. I'll let you know what I find
 
If I did want to put in a temp gauge, where would be the best place to put the sender. My Kawi has a temp gauge, and was surprised this didn't, the Kawi has a digital dash so they can fit more in less space. The wife is terrified of the ski so we needed a boat for her to feel safer on the water
 
So, it finally stopped raining and I was able to change out the oil level sensor, now the engine revs up fine (YEA!!) but I still get a beeper code, (1) 2 second beep every 58 seconds. I think that's a beep code 5 which according to the manual could be a exhaust temp sensor, water temp sensor, TPS failure, low fuel level or low battery voltage. process of elimination, the battery is always on a maintainer when parked so not likely, the fuel gauge reads full and I can see the fuel level in the tank is almost full but I'll top it off tomorrow to be sure the sender isn't f'd up, I found the mag side TPS to be out of range so I ordered one, and both temp sensors were reading a little high but both equal so I'm not sure about those. Anyone have any other input, she seemed to run nice in the driveway with the hose on. one thing I did notice that was strange, after revving the engine a couple of times, it would not immediately return to idle and stayed at about 3000 rpm for a couple of seconds then drop to idle, I thought I might have had the wheel turned all the way to one side but that was not the case, kind of strange, I did check the throttle cable when this first happened to make sure it was operating and all appeared fine.
 
his may sound strange to relate to a car, but I had a car that would do the same thing [hang at high RPM before returning to idle]. My issue was related to the TPS in that car, but more specifically the TPS circuit in the computer. While that is the most extreme case, I would suggest that the TPS is the likely cause as it is not responding as the ECU expects it to....
 
When you own a Di, or RFI Rotax... it's worth buying a CanDoPro. It's like a BUDS system... but much cheaper. It can get into the MPEM and tell you exactly what's out of range.
 
I was considering buying one, filled it up with fuel to be sure, no change in beep code, checked battery voltage at rest, 12.65v and then 13.7 at 3500 rpm after 1-2 minutes of run time and still climbing so it looks like i have to dig into the sensors, the mag side was way out of range so I'm going to start there. if no luck with that I'll buy the candoo pro and proceed from there. thanks for your help, if you can think of anything else, please let me know. and as I learn more about these beasties, hopefully I'll be able to contribute to others
 
does the candoo pro come with software or do I need to download BUDS and buy a license for it to use with the candoo pro? Is it just an interface module or a "copy" of the seadoo dealer equipment. I saw it online but it was a little unclear about if it needed additional software. It can program DESS cap keys too correct?

Thanks
 
It's a complete system. You get 4 different hins. Each additional one is $99. The site sponsor pwcmuscle.com sells them. Contact [MENTION=2]hfgreg[/MENTION] for the details.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for all the info, Hope I can get all this done and running proper to get a few weekends out of it before the season here in the north east ends
 
Candoo pro ordered, It's a shame, I've got thousands tied up in electronic test equipment for cars and trucks, now I'm starting all over for boats. well, it'll probably pay for itself in labor charge savings over time, not having to bring it to a dealer for diagnosis when/if there are future issues and since I only have 1 DESS key, I ordered a blank to program for a spare.
 
Candoo pro arrived, I scanned the boat and found codes for the RAVE solenoid, MAG TPS and several other TPS codes related to it., and a fuel level sensor out of range. The RAVE solenoid and TPS should be here any day. I'm hoping the fuel level sensor won't hurt performance. when I was testing with my ohm meter I found the MAG tps to be virtually dead and the RAVE solenoid with very high resistance. I figure the TPS caused the limp home mode and that annoying warning beep, hope this cures it, all the wiring between the sensors and computer check good
 
I changed out the 2 engine temp sensors, got a great price on amazon, Interesting thing happened while removing the engine temp sensor in the cylinder head. The sensor came out no problem but left the brass bulb in the head, the actual sensor came out so all that was left was the shell, naturally it broke off flush with the flat edge inside, I tried to grab an edge with a pick to bend it in to loosen it, soaked with aerokroil overnight, no luck, I was getting ready to pull the cylinder head and I noticed the coolant water hose nipple at the head is directly in line with the sensor, I got lucky, using a flat tipped long drift pin I was able to drive the shell down into the cooling passage and remove it through the hose nipple saving a ton of extra work. Used a drill to remove the corrosion around the bulb area and blew it all out with compressed air, new sensor went right in, nice. Once in a while you get lucky. today was mine. New TPS and Rave solenoid will be here tomorrow. The setup procedure for the TPS's in the seadoo manual is quite involved. anyone ever have any experience with it?
 
When you get it all hooked up look and see if it will adjust timing, I am guessing not as the RFI wont, because it was not in the buds, software but in the mpem programmer as bosch software.
The guys at candoo tried to load me up with some hooee, about adjusting rfi timing does nothing, but I have seen it with my two eyes and it does move base timing around + or -.
 
I took a look at the timing last night, it showed the primary TPS at 43 (max of 45) and 0 on the slave (I'm guessing that's where my problem is) and the timing was shown as 4 degrees, I didn't try to change any settings yet, the new TPS will be here tomorrow, after I install it, I'll check and adjust according to the manual and see if the Candoo Pro can/will adjust the base timing and post it back here. maybe it works differently with the DI engine controls.
 
I changed out the mag TPS, no change , I get 0 on the candoo display, upon checking further I found that I do not have 5 volts supplied by the mpem at pin 3-10, I could have sworn that I checked that before condemning the TPS (the original TPS was way out of range on the ohmmeter so it needed to go anyway) I jumpered 5 volts from the pto TPS to see what would happen and got a 5 volt return on pin 3-5 like I should have but still no response on the Candoo, still shows 0. Failure code P0220 and P1600 MPEM and TDC not initialized, but I can't reinitialize until i get the mag TPS in range (at least responding)
I also replaced the RAVE solenoid which tested open across the windings and I'm still getting a RAVE solenoid failure P0475. I've tested all the wiring for continuity and cleaned and tightened all the connections, checked all fuses, made sure that the MPEM power and grounds were good, properly charged battery. I'm getting lost, I'm beginning to think MPEM failure but want to be sure before spending that kind of coin unless I can find a used or recon. one. Anyone please help
 
I tried a supposed good MPEM with all matching #'s, wouldn't start and had about 10 codes set, either not compatible or in worse shape than mine, I added an extra ground from the battery to the rear (mag) side of the engine, just to make sure. also added an extra ground to the regulator, just for fun. Now I have codes 1600 MPEM & TDC not initialized, P0475 Rave Solenoid failure, solenoid is new and all wiring checks good, P0120 PTO TPS out of range, Both TPS's check good and wiring check good, MAG TPS is new and both TPS swing on ohmmeter is identical, P0460 Fuel sensor out of range (I believe the fuel level sensor doesn't even go to the MPEM). I dont have any 5 volt output to the TPS sensors from the MPEM. The code that was there for the MAG TPS out of range (P0220) is now gone?? Both TPS's show 0 on Candoo Pro and do not change with throttle position. I guess I need to keep searching for a matching and functioning MPEM or am I heading down the wrong path?
 
hi dr honda
do you know ware i can get a candopro or any diagnostic tools like you mentioned ?
thanks
-Roger
 
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