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Little Help

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Mister Magoo

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I have a 2007 Speedster 150 with what the display says as 15 hours on it.. Got it last year right before it got cold and took it out once and seemed to run fine. Got up on a plane, did not leak water, went to 7000 RPM's. Stated reading here, so I winterized it and looked at the wear ring and impeller. Wear ring had some grooves in it and the impeller had some nicks on the leading edge so I figured I would replace them both. Tried to buy a wear ring/impeller/tool package from PWC. They sent me the incorrect impeller and tool. Long story short they said they did not have a kit for my boat and recommended a Solas SR-CD-11/19, which, I bought from them. Put it on over the winter, no problem, seemed to be the correct fit.. Started just fine on the trailer. Went out for the first time since the rebuild today. In the water at full throttle only 3000 RPM's and goes no where. But, when I get it out of the water and onto the trailer I started it and it goes to 7000 RPM's. Did I maybe do something wrong reassembling the pump, I have and used the Seadoo manual on the rebuild and it was pretty easy. Any thoughts? I was thinking of putting the old impeller back on. Is the Solas SR-CD-11/19 correct? Thanks for any help.
 
Pwc usually knows their stuff. I will say boats are not as popular so I'd be careful going with a lot of changes before you know the ropes. Never rev your engine to 7000 RPMs out of the water you will definitely crack your carbon seal. Lots of things seem off with the data in your post and bring up a lot of questions. Rather than making the water more muddy, I'd say put the old impeller back on and hope for the best. Messing with the impeller can cause lots of changes and pitching is art of its own. If it goes back to "normal" then you found your culprit. If you're interested in impeller pitching you could buy a tool to measure blade distancing and pitch your own impellers to perfection. Again typically impeller pitching is done after some mods and for us boat guys there's not much interest and tests to help us along.
 
delonnelj is correct in advising to go back to the original impeller and see what happens. When you do remove the impeller, take notice of the splines on the shaft and inside the impeller. Check for any excessive wear or damage to the splines.
 
I just revved it to max for a sec out of the water just to see. I took the pump back apart last evening and everything looks very good, no wear on the splines or ring and the impeller looks perfect. I used to turn a wrench in the service department at a Honda and Bombardier dealership years ago before I went into electronic repair. Now I did not work on the boats cause those techs needed to be marine certified but I worked on everything else. I really like this boat and it seems pretty straight forward working on it and this boat is extremely clean. My main question from the first post was why would it only rev to exactly 3000 at max throttle in the water and over 7000 out of the water? It almost seems like limp home mode in the water but should that not continue out of the water? My gauge cluster is hard to read, its light in spots and kind of dark on the sides (speed, direction, RPM's, and hours are readable) so I can't tell if I have any errors so I just ordered the Candoo home scanner last night, I've been wanting one anyway. My plan, eventually, is to replace the gauge cluster but they are a bit pricey. BTW, thanks for the replies.
 
While I have been drinking my coffee this morning I have thought about what said about the splines JPass. I think I need to take a much closer look at them. I'm not sure the manual has specs on shaft/spline diameter but I am going to dust off my micrometers today.
 
While I have been drinking my coffee this morning I have thought about what said about the splines JPass. I think I need to take a much closer look at them. I'm not sure the manual has specs on shaft/spline diameter but I am going to dust off my micrometers today.

I would think if there was an issue with the splines, it would be noticeable to the naked eye.

I would still swap the impellers and see if things go back to "normal".

Having a B.U.D.S is a valuable tool when owning a 4tec.

Keep us posted on what you find and don't be afraid to post pics.
 
I compared the new impeller to the old and they have the same dimensions. I even compared edge of impeller to start of threads and the other side from the start of spines to seal mating, all the same, they are identical except for the shaft seal style, which, I don't think matters. Wear ring has no wear on it and the shaft spines is good. The grease cap is full to the top, can too much grease in the cause it to drag? I must have done something to cause the engine not to rev above 3000 RPM's. It does not act like cavitation nor is there any kind of surging of the engine, from idle to full throttle is 0 to 3000 RPM's the same every time. But as soon as I got it on the trailer I started it to get the water out of the exhaust pushed it to full throttle and wham 7000 RPM's, which surprised me, I shut it down immediately. Candoo shipped this morning so I should be able to tell if its engine management related before I can go back to the lake Friday. The RPM thing has me puzzled.image5.jpegimage4.jpegimage3.jpegimage2.jpegimage1.jpegimage0.jpeg
 
3000 RPMs seems like limp home mode. You'll always be able to get more RPMs out of the water because there's no resistance. I had an AIR intake temperature sensor go bad. Out of the water it would not show limp home and not limit my revs. In the water it would.

Impellers are measured by the distance between the blade edges, surface area and the angle at which the blade hits the water. In many situations you won't be able to eye ball all the changes without the tool.

They could very well be unrelated but I would start back at square one. Then go from there. I know taking the impeller off is not the time you'd like to spend. But the problems you're experiencing can be the result of a few causes. It's always better to first check all the connections and plugs. If you don't find something out of place then I typically start back over. I will say I've never changed an impeller and had that issue either.
 
I agree. Put original impeller back, test ride, and report back.

Impeller pitch gauge

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I used a depth gauge and a caliper to compare the impellers, same measurements. Did a unscientific way of comparing pitch using a cardboard cutout and they are extremely close. After buying the Candoo I was invited to join the CANDoo forum, the info there is worth the price of purchasing the scanner alone. Since a pump removal is fairly easy I am going to install the original impeller but I don't think there is anything wrong with the Solas impeller nor with my installation of it. I feel I'm having a electrical problem that starts with a discharged/bad battery. After removing the battery to charge it I found some questionable wiring. Fell into the old troubleshooting trap of thinking the last system touched has to be the the system creating the new errors. I'm lucky to live close to a barely used boat ramp and should be able to use the Candoo scanner on the boat in the water while its on the trailer to troubleshoot. I was furloughed last week and find I have some time on my hands, at least for a few weeks. Thanks for the tips.
 
The Candoo pro is a handy tool especially when it comes to boats
Definitely sounds like it’s in limp mode
Confirm your in Forward when you are trying advance the throttle to see max RPM
 
Got the scanner this morning, there were just 4 codes all "occurred". The previous owner told me he had just changed the fuel pump and 2 of the old errors were fuel pump problems. The new error was low 12 volt, actually said 10.4 volts. I put the new Solas impeller back in (I never put the original one back on) and a new battery and wham 7000 grand and 42 MPH. Found that the MPEM had 22 hours on it and the cluster with only 16. Not sure how that works. My gauge cluster is hard to read so I think I'm going to buy a new one. I think I read somewhere that I can buy a new one with the place selling it will flash to my 2007 boat. Thanks for all the help. I really like this boat.
 
So I went out looking for a seller to buy a new gauge cluster for my 2007 Sportster 150. I know it needs to be flashed before I can marry it but does anyone know of a place that does this? I would like to buy it and get them to flash it. Any ideas?
 
155 NA. I wanted the non SC. When I worked at the Seadoo dealership years ago (2005-2009) the superchargers failed on brand new units. We did a lot of warranty work on them so I went out of my way to get the naturally aspirated model. Low 40's is good for me.
 
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