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Just bought a Sportster LE .Advice on a rebuild, Etc.

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Sandman251

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So I just picked up this 2001 Sportster LE yesterday. The intent was to purchase a running boat boat for something under market value.
Its a one owner boat serviced at a dealership. Excellent, almost like new interior with just a little bit of dock rash here and there on the hull.

The condensed version is we tried to start the boat. It turned over vigorously and had gobs of spark but would not fire. New freshly charged battery. I should mention there was also a bilge full of oil. Looked like it might have been leaking under the reservoir. I'll track that down.

When they saw all the oil they basically just started telling me to make them an offer they wanted it gone today. I threw $1,250 at them and they took it.

When I got home I checked the compression with my HF tester. The bad news is 75/90. Tested it 3 times cold, grounded plugs, WOT. I'm really okay with spending the
$$$ on a rebuild. I like the idea I'm starting fresh both performance-wise and for peace of mind.

First, what do you think of the deal? Second, generally, where does one begin the process of getting this boat running again. I can't do the rebuild myself, but I might try to tackle the swap.uploadfromtaptalk1459102346024.jpguploadfromtaptalk1459102422251.jpg Just needing your general insight.
 
My advice, get or borrow a real compression tester. Ive seen engines about to be pulled for "low compression" and ended up fine when tested with my snapon. NOW having said that, Im not brand loyal, I actually prefer my HF ratchets over any other but the test equiptment is really hit or miss, about as bad as the ones you get from chain auto parts stores
Chances are it needs a rebuild, just saying Id borrow a decent gauge before making that call
 
Thanks for the advice. I'm aware Harbor Freight gauges get a bad rap. I intended to try a different gauge before I got much farther. Even if it does read low, my concern is the 20% differential between the cylinders.
 
My advice is to pull the rave valves and have a look you can see the piston through the rave valve port, look for any signs of scoring, if the pistons are scored you are looking at a top end repair which is much less than a complete engine.

BTW back in 99 when all the 951's were dying by water ingestion this was the exact procedure outlined in the repair bulletin to check for top end damage.
 
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That's interesting, I'll try that. I've had raves out before I never thought I could see enough of the piston for a diagnosis
 
I think you can see badly damaged piston through the RAVE ports, my guess is yours probably don't look too good at 75 lbs.

If you have a compressor with a gauge on it you can compare that to your HF gauge. I wonder if they ran without oil? (I keep just enough in my oil tank to keep the low oil light happy in case it springs a leak).

I think you got a super deal if the trailer came with it and is in good condition. If you like small boats this one is pretty decent, IMO.
 
I think you can see badly damaged piston through the RAVE ports, my guess is yours probably don't look too good at 75 lbs.

If you have a compressor with a gauge on it you can compare that to your HF gauge. I wonder if they ran without oil? (I keep just enough in my oil tank to keep the low oil light happy in case it springs a leak).

I think you got a super deal if the trailer came with it and is in good condition. If you like small boats this one is pretty decent, IMO.


Yes. The trailer was included. I sort of based my offer assuming a doomsday situation with the motor. I see you have the same boat. How does yours perform? You can see from my profile that had a 97' 787. It was great. I love the small boats. I didn't notice till I got it home that the 01' lacks the VTS system and the weed-clearing grate lever. Have you found you wished you had them? Any insight you have about how to proceed would be appreciated.
 
Never used the weed grates on my speedster but I do wish I had vts. If I were in your position I would get a rebuilt engine from sbt so it would be ready before the summer.
 
If the electronics are good... then it was a good deal. I buy most of my toys cheap, and rebuild.


OK... the HF compression gauges.... AT ONE TIME WERE GOOD !!!! but the ones sold from about 4 years ago to now SUCK !!! Basically, they moved the Schrader valve from the tip of the adaptor, to the base of the gauge. In doing so... the volume of the hose becomes part of the compression chamber. So, just look. If you have an older one, and the valve is in the tip... then it's good. If it's in the gauge unit... then it sucks.

But as others have said... if the gauge is questionable... then get a different gauge, and re-check. Also, be aware, the 951 engine has reed valves, and they are known to give up. You may just want to pull the carbs, and intake, and verify the reeds. When they break, the engine won't water, and the compressing will read low. (may be an easy fix)

But... with the price paid... then a replacement engine from SBT is worth it.
 
You figure out where you're getting your rebuild done yet? As I mentioned in the other thread, I will be getting my 720s rebuilt this fall. I'm pretty much set on SES. I don't like SBT just for the fact that I can't keep my original cores. I want to like Full Bore, being in Alpena and my mother lives up that way, but don't like the reviews he's gotten here and his website doesn't impress me too much. Is there another machine shop to consider?

Saw the pic on your boat. Sweet deal for $1250. I would have jumped on it too. Figure a new engine wouldn't be more than $1500 so you can't go wrong.



So I just picked up this 2001 Sportster LE yesterday. The intent was to purchase a running boat boat for something under market value.
Its a one owner boat serviced at a dealership. Excellent, almost like new interior with just a little bit of dock rash here and there on the hull.

The condensed version is we tried to start the boat. It turned over vigorously and had gobs of spark but would not fire. New freshly charged battery. I should mention there was also a bilge full of oil. Looked like it might have been leaking under the reservoir. I'll track that down.

When they saw all the oil they basically just started telling me to make them an offer they wanted it gone today. I threw $1,250 at them and they took it.

When I got home I checked the compression with my HF tester. The bad news is 75/90. Tested it 3 times cold, grounded plugs, WOT. I'm really okay with spending the
$$$ on a rebuild. I like the idea I'm starting fresh both performance-wise and for peace of mind.

First, what do you think of the deal? Second, generally, where does one begin the process of getting this boat running again. I can't do the rebuild myself, but I might try to tackle the swap.View attachment 34485View attachment 34486 Just needing your general insight.
 
You know, I never updated this post. I should have. I picked up a much nicer comp tester and tried again. This time the readings were 131/112. I verified this gauge against another ski. It's accurate. As I understand, factory fresh it looks like these 951's blow 135lb. So, 1 cylinder very good, 1 not so good. I'm worried a little about the differential,though. I got the boat running and it starts and runs (in driveway) great. I know most guys will tell me its a ticking time bomb, but it if runs good on the water, I'm tempted to run it this summer and have it rebuilt over the winter.
I thought SES, too but I found a guy on Ebay from Waterford, Mi. (N. of Detroit) that has been rebuilding rotax motors for years. Think he said he delivered like 150 motors all over the world last year. 1 year no-fault warranty with 90 days free labor. Since I live an hour away I might take advantage of his remove/install service, too.
For $1500 you drop off your boat and pick it up 10 days later with a new motor. Sounds like he does everything SBT or SES does. That's the price for a 951C. The details are in his Ebay ad. His company name is 5 Star Service.
 
Yeah I saw his auctions and had wondered about him. I've got a couple spare tuned pipes that need welding and would like to have him do if he offers that. I should have my carbs rebuilt when I get the engines done so I'd like to try him out there too. Maybe he'd install my engines and after rebuild and do the carbs. But I think I'm still going with SES for the machining for the longer warranty and to stick with my original cores. Were you able to contact him through ebay?
 
Yes, I was able to contact him. I think his name is Mel. His phone number is right in the ad you can give him a call. I forgot to mention his service also includes an ultrasonic carb cleaning and a sea trial
 
I am liking the sound of this guy more and more after doing just a bit of research on him. Thanks for bringing him up. If he'll rebuild my cores, instead of swapping, I think I'll use him start to finish.
 
After you get it running measure the compression again. You may find the low cylinder improves once it's been run for a minute or two.

The problem with low compression is, blow-by gasses can torch the oil off the cylinder walls then you'll stick a piston due to lack of lubrication.

Another possibility for low compression might be a cracked piston skirt, which can break off and fall down into the crankcase thus muck things up such as putting custom windows in the case.

112psi is getting pretty low but hey it might've been from just a little bit of rust on the cylinder wall, I've had plenty of motors pulled from the yard that blew a little lower in one cylinder and after running a few minutes perked right up. Could've been some rusty valve seats too, I don't know but I always check compression before firing them off and see this all the time. We have to run them before we can sell as a complete running motor with good compression.

My 951 is down to about 121psi last I checked, first time I checked it measured 132psi.
 
Rotax motors have never been my strong suit, so I appreciate your input.It's been a horrible wet freezing spring here in Michigan and thank God the weather broke today. I might dunk it on the trailer And run it For 10 minutesTo see what happens to that low cylinder.


After you get it running 3measure the compression again. You may find the low cylinder improves once it's been run for a minute or two.

The problem with low compression is, blow-by gasses can torch the oil off the cylinder walls then you'll stick a piston due to lack of lubrication.

Another possibility for low compression might be a cracked piston skirt, which can break off and fall down into the crankcase thus muck things up such as putting custom windows in the case.

112psi is getting pretty low but hey it might've been from just a little bit of rust on the cylinder wall, I've had plenty of motors pulled from the yard that blew a little lower in one cylinder and after running a few minutes perked right up. Could've been some rusty valve seats too, I don't know but I always check compression before firing them off and see this all the time. We have to run them before we can sell as a complete running motor with good compression.

My 951 is down to about 121psi last I checked, first time I checked it measured 132psi.
 
I would definatly put a few hours on it and retest the compression. Story time, a few years ago I picked up two RX's from out local dealer. They had been run through the service dept and been diagnosed with low compression. I bought them both for $800.00 without a trailer.

One was a carb 951 the other one was a DI , it turns out the DI was toast and need a complete rebuild but the carbed boat was a different story. I pulled the carbs , rebuilt them , changed the fuel lines, put in a new battery and spark plugs and check the compression , it was low. While I was doing this I noticed the fuel in it was blue, I siphoned it out and sure enough it had premix in it, I refilled i with fresh gas and headed to the lake, we rode the piss out of that ski all day Sunday wearing it out.

Monday I pulled the plugs and checked the compression again it was right on the money, i sanded and buffed the boat , put it on a trailer and sold it two weeks later for $3500.00. The DI I rebuilt and sold for $3000.00 without a trailer.
 
Wanted to provide an update on the discussion of Mel at 5 Star Service in Clarkston, MI. He rebuilt my starboard engine this spring of 2016. I've been running it all summer and it has worked great. Like any new motor, it used more gas and oil at first but now is beyond the break-in and is back to normal usage. I'm glad I stumbled across hearing about him here. Since the rebuild, I've bought a few misc parts from as well since the 2nd floor of his barn is all pwc and jet boat parts. Overall, just a good person to be in touch with if you've got an old seadoo or yamaha. Prices were pretty reasonable for the rebuild and the misc parts.
 
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