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Just bought a 98 speedster that took on water

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After replacing the fuse I was able to get the port engine to fire but no fuel was being fed through the carbs. After pulling the carbs for inspection I found a lot of "crack rocks" as race would put it behind the diaphragms as well as inside the internal filter.

I also pulled the starboard carbs to alleviate the sticking problem and rebuild. They were filled with more of the same except the filters were clear.

Does anyone have a link to a good rebuild kit for these and/or a guide could be helpful.


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As Stated in the title this boat took on water which has been determined was sea water thanks to a pointer from racerxxx. Some of this water remained in the carbs leaving them in particularly poor condition from my experience. As some of you already know it is very difficult to get the screws out to expose the jets in these carbs. I was able to get all eight screws out in about an hour without stripping any using these means.
A pneumatic chisel with a blunt tip
A manual impact screw driver
Aerokroil penetrant
A small flat head screwdriver
And a piece of 3/4" plywood

91.jpg
92.jpg


I placed the plywood on the ground for a firm work surface and used the Phillips #2 bit inside of the 1/2" drive X 5/16" adapter from the impact screw extracter as shown above with the blunt tip of the air chisel inside of it as shown above.
93.jpg

When I got stuck with one screw remaining I gently wiggled my screwdriver in the area around the plate blocking the jets. This allowed the screw to become free inside of the plates with only the threads in the carburetor body remaining stuck. At this point I was able to remove the last screw using the impact screwdriver.
94.jpg

As you can see there was a lot of corrosion this photo was after some cleaning had already been done. That one wasn't even the worst.


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Shaft protector, worthless. It's supposed to help when you get a ski rope wrapped around it. Yeah, not so much. I was going to mention it the other night when I looked at your pics but figured we'd cross that bridge when we got to it.


Do yourself a favor, keep all your posts to one thread for your build. I't much easier to keep track of. Once you reply I will get an email and tapatalk notification that someone has replied.

If you want' I'll put this over in that thread.
 
Shaft protector, worthless. It's supposed to help when you get a ski rope wrapped around it. Yeah, not so much. I was going to mention it the other night when I looked at your pics but figured we'd cross that bridge when we got to it.


Do yourself a favor, keep all your posts to one thread for your build. I't much easier to keep track of. Once you or anyone replies I will get an email and tapatalk notification, I'm subscribed to it. My phone and email goes off constantly thru out the day.

If you want' I'll put this over in that thread.
 
You can delete this thread the other wasn't getting any action so I figured it could be more productive to make a specific post


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Does anyone know the thread size and pitch of the screws used for the mikuni throttle butterfly screws they're the same as the hold down screw for the needle valve fulcrum. I don't want to wait for parts... For now I only have the ignition parts to run one motor anyway but I'd still like to get ahead of the game the ignition parts are already in transit.


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Also I broke the tabs off one of the idle jets reinstalling it. I don't foresee an issue at the moment but in the future I'd imagine I won't be removing it again.


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Does anyone know the thread size and pitch of the screws used for the mikuni throttle butterfly screws they're the same as the hold down screw for the needle valve fulcrum. I don't want to wait for parts... For now I only have the ignition parts to run one motor anyway but I'd still like to get ahead of the game the ignition parts are already in transit.


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M3 X 8mm long Oval head Phillips screws. How many do you need, I have them. Bought a 100, I'm down to about 80 something left. I put them in with red loctite, then dink the threads on the side with a transfer punch so they can't back out. If you haven't figured it out yet, they swage the end so you need to file that off first BEFORE you back them through the shaft or you will strip the shaft out.


I got mine from Mcmaster

http://www.mcmaster.com/#90258A178
 
Also I broke the tabs off one of the idle jets reinstalling it. I don't foresee an issue at the moment but in the future I'd imagine I won't be removing it again.


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While it's fresh I would get it out now and fix it the right way, gonna come back and bite you when you don't want it to.
 
I figured it out a bit too late one of them came out without damaging the threads too badly the other broke and required me to use a left handed drill bit. Needless to say the threads were slightly damaged on both holes but I used the clean screws from the needle valve fulcrum and they held some decent torque. I used red locktite and clamped them with a pair of needle nose vice-grips to foul the end threads. Maybe I should go further and try to peen them as well. I only had one sticky butterfly so I only need two screws to replace the ones I damaged.


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You're gonna need #3 and #35. I can see it missing on both impellers.
#3-----271000516
#35----271000517



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Thank you for your advice. What do parts 3 and 35 do? Where should I start looking to purchase them. Since I am going to be ordering hardware do you know what screws are used for the valve plate that covers the jets? Lastly can you recommend a quality carburetor rebuild kit? Again thanks for sharing your knowledge!


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Those two parts seal the driveshaft and impeller from getting water in between them slowly rising the splines on the shaft. And rising rusting then together. You can get them at the dealer. Make a list of what hardware you need. You want to get genuine mikuni carb kits. I'll get you some info later today.

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As far as hardware goes, I only need the two screws I used for the butterfly but I suppose I will replace the screws that hold down the valve plate that jets on all four carbs. I assume the carb kits will come with the jets, but I haven't opened up the accelerator pumps or the external fuel pumps yet but I wouldn't be opposed to rebuilding the whole fuel system.


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Carb kits only contain "soft" parts for the rebuilds. NO JETS and NO NEEDLE AND SEAT. DO not use the springs in the kits, reuse the original springs if you can. External fuel pumps are non rebuildable. Once you open it you will stretch the gasket and have a hell of a time sealing it back up.


Here is your alternative:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?63577-fuel-pumps


Here is the accel pumps
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=9&products_id=19

Carb hardware kits from Jetskigoodies
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?59699-New-Hardware-update-kits-for-carbs



If you only need 2 screws PM me your address, I'll toss some in an envelope and ship them up.
 
How would you recommend removing that damaged jet, and what jets do I need for these? I was thinking a left hand drill bit would do the trick but if I don't succeed I'm looking at a couple hundo in scrap al. I almost think I should leave it well enough alone and use a strand of copper wire or the proper drill bit to clean it out if it needs attention in the future.


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I also noticed I will need one low speed adjuster also available through osd but there are a couple variations will I need the "I" series?


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