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Just bought a 98 speedster that took on water

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Hello my name is Dean, I live in Massachusetts and I just bought my first seadoo!

The story on the boat is as follows. Last season the boat took on water at the dock, a neighbor (a friend of mine) hauled it out of the water for the owner. Now I don't know if it was rain water or salt water, nor do I know how long it sat like this. What I do know is that the water was below the cdi but probably got into the intake.

Then a "marine mechanic" who's incompetence is well known in these parts did some things to it. So far I know that he pulled the plugs and flooded the engine with oil, removed the starter relays and ignition coils, removed what are either the throttle or shift linkages and I believe he cut some ignition/starter relay coil wires.
The wire casing says it is trailer wiring and has the typical yellow, brown, green and white wire a trailer would have. There are two sets of these wires that I believe run from the helm to the engine compartment.

Now let me start by saying that I understand I will probably be rebuilding both these engines from the crank up due to water most likely reaching the crank bearings but my first priority is going to be to determine what has failed as far as the electronics go. If anyone has any helpful information it would surely be appreciated. As of now I do know that the engines turn over when 12v is applied to the starter. I would also appreciate if anyone knows the proper resistance of the ignition coils or the purpose of the "trailer" wire running from the helm.
Thanks for reading.
 
Thanks racerxxx for the reply on my other thread in the Pwc forum. I will try to post pictures tonight when I get home. I would like to try to start these motors rusty crank bearings or not a few seconds of fun time wont blow anything up.
 
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Here is the boat!


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I am missing one of the wiring harnesses for the ignition coil/ starter solenoid it looks like I need at least one solenoid one harness and one coil. Does anyone know a good resource


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These linkages are the ones disconnected they were suppose to be connected to the shroud that provides reverse thrust but it looks like it has been modified.


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[MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] you were correct about the exhaust boots they were rotted and covered in silicone.

I also did a compression test today all of the cylinders read between 195 and 215 psi


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As for the "trailer" wire
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It was fro trim tabs somebody began to fit up but ultimately couldn't fit on the transom
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OMG, I don't even know where to begin on whats wrong. That trim tab switch, LOL, lose that. The cable that is coming out on the port (left side) towards the clam shell, yeah that isn't supposed to be there nor the one on the starboard side in the same place. That was someones hodge-podgery on a variable trim system. I got a feeling that is where the trailer wiring comes into play possibly. There isn't even supposed to be a cable coming out the port side at all. I have a feeling I'm going to be your best friend for pics, LOL.

Those comp numbers are way out, prime time is 150, lets hope all that oil that cat put in there has everything all nice and neat looking and that is throwing off the comp numbers.


Book mark this site http://epc.brp.com/SiteMods/BRP_Public/BRP_Public_Login.aspx?ReturnUrl=/Index.aspx

Click view parts catalogs, then use the drop down to seadoo boats etc........ You can click on an item number and it will hot link you to the actual BRP part#.



Now for the big question.......Do you have all the seat cushions? Oh, and those exhaust gaskets I told you about............they're obsolete. Gotta snag them on ebay when they pop up cheap. Some guys try and gouge for $50 to $85 bucks, I won't pay those prices. Other guys have substituted and vent pipe seal like on your roof.
 
In fortunately my iPhone can't get to the parts pages I'll have to try on a pc tomorrow.

As for the rubber exhaust seal in the trades we call it a "witch hat" one that is meant for a rubber roof membrane will work fantastic!
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that will be ideal for that application and I bet it will last longer than the original.

I was planning on eliminating the trim electronics and it is a relief to hear I can eliminate the other linkage whatever it may have been. I will seal t the penetration with marine-tex epoxy from both sides.


As for the compression numbers, it was clear that there was still a significant amount of heavy viscosity oil in the cylinders I will try cutting through it with some two stroke gasoline and report some new numbers.

Seats are the least of my concern, but yes I do have all of the cushions. Although one of the padded storage compartment lids flew off on my ride home...

I'll leave you with this
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All of the parts I found in the bilge....

Thanks for the help


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So I was able to do a bit more work today I found one of the ignition wires for the star port engine was chaffed through so I took the starter solenoid from the star port engine and wired up one "electrical box" I then hooked it up to the star port engine and cranked it for a while. I am still getting lots of oil out of the cylinders but I was able to get the engine to kick one time before the plugs got fouled. Thankfully I was able to find a complete setup for the star port engine on eBay for $65 shipped. I also learned that those coil wires are significantly longer.
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Any advise on how to clear the oil out of the crank case any faster I wore down my starting battery from the big boat today trying to get al the oil out.
Tomorrow I will hook it up to the jeep with jumper cables so that I don't have to be concerned about running this battery down. For now it is on a trickle charger awaiting round two.

I was also able to poke around with the defunct trim tab setup. Whoever installed it actually put some serious effort into it I found they had wired indicator LED's above the instruments to show that the trim was bring energized when you depressed the button. If I remember I will upload a photo tomorrow.
Thanks for the read.


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Do not run your jeep while trying to start the boat. You can fry the computer. The 2 plug holders are grounding posts so they don't spark and ignite vapor

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I'm glad that you replied, yesterday I did use the jeep directly to the starter motors I would think that would be fine since nothing else was wired.

Would it be unadvisable to continue doing that I have a feeling it will take a significant amount of cranking to clean this out enough not to foil the plugs.

Also do you think I should remove the fuel and oil injection lines? Will the oil injection pump be damaged? I don't believe that the fuel is accumulating but the oil most likely is



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If you look at the placards on the boat in the engine bay I believe there is one saying not to boost your battery. While that is not a boosting charger, it is putting out more that the stock system. The MPEM (computer) is not a very common part for these boats and are very expensive even used. I would treat it like fine china. I wouldn't even connect a battery charger to my boat with any cables hooked up to it, and we have a disconnect switch---just not worth the chance. If there is that much oil in there I would fish a tube in through the carbs and use a shop vac to suck out as much as you can.
 
I just did a short re-read. Yes, you you go direct to the starter from the jeep and completely bypass the battery in the boat you should be good to go.
 
Thank for the update. As far as vacuuming the oil out of the crankcase through the carbs. Isn't there a reed cage in the way?


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The shop vac method worked great for the starboard engine I got it started today although it is clear the a the idle circuit is clogged and the throttle sticks open...

As for the port engine, there is no spark, I get aroximately 180mv dc to the ignition coil on the starboard engine and nothing on the port side. Any ideas?


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I also got some pics of the pumps from inside the tunnels there appears to be some areas of concern one blue pice of plastic and some exposed glass in particular
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I found this testing procedure in the fsm it was for the pwc models not the boat. It appears to be correct for this model though.

I should mention that the the key does not give me any chimes at all. But the starboard motor does run. I hope that it's just a faulty wire


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So I found a blown fuse in the mpem and two missing fuses I replaced the 7.5 that was blown and installed two fives where the were none.
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Can anyone post a photo of the proper fuses in their locatoins?


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