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Is this wear ring bad enough?
- Thread starter Dirtrover
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You really can't tell unless the impeller is installed, there should be no more than .040" (about the thickness of a dime) between the impeller and wear ring. That being said since you already have the wear ring out of the pump, and it does show some wear I would go ahead and replace it.
I would also clean up the impeller edges with a dremel.
BTW, how did you get the wear ring out in one piece?
Lou
I would also clean up the impeller edges with a dremel.
BTW, how did you get the wear ring out in one piece?
Lou
Dirtrover
New Member
I chiseled a piece out actually. With the impeller in it was right about a dime sized clearance. Also there was no neoprene ring installed, just a bunch of black goop I had to pry loose and clean up. I also notice the new ring has a nice lip on it and the old ring is worn flat. Would that effect the way this is supposed to work? The impeller shaft and the pump looked pretty good with no apparent water intrusion. I just wanna get this thing in the lake and have it work. The wife really gave me the evil eye since I just bought it and it didn't perform well. Fortunately, the PO is a man of his word and is paying for the repair. Can't beat that.
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well if you have out I would replace it anyway. impeller is not in that bad of shape. Also the ride shoe/plate can cause cavitation also. If it was all RTVd in I doubt the pump to boat mouting was the cause. You have bearing assembly or Carbone Ring setup for the drives shaft? You are right around the year they switched. If you have the carbone ring setup that is more than likely when your cavitation is from. The bearings don't have that issues they just lockup and rip a hole in the boat.
Dirtrover
New Member
I think I have the carbon ring. I've already got the new wear ring in and am cleaning up the impeller edge now. Hardy Lake (Indiana) is about 30 mins from the house so I'm gonna put everything back together and see what happens. I guess then I'll know if its the through hull fitting.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Edit: I'd install a new one if it was my boat! 
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I think you can salvage the wear ring by using JB weld to reattach if absolutely necessary, but I'd install a new one if it was my boat!
I know that you're trying to be funny with this post, but some newer members my take your comment seriously, see the picture in post no. 3. If someone actually used JB weld they would never get the wear ring out of the pump again.
Lou
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No special tool needed for carbon ring. Just normal hand tools.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
That impeller is pretty rough around the edges, at least dress 'em up as well consider a new one or take it somewhere for revamp.
I kinda think cavitation is possible considering the condition of these parts but a new carbon seal bellows would also be on my list of replacement parts and even the carbon seal itself for good measure.
I kinda think cavitation is possible considering the condition of these parts but a new carbon seal bellows would also be on my list of replacement parts and even the carbon seal itself for good measure.
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Guest_User
New Member
Doc,Lou, I think you need guys new glasses :lols:, that wear ring is toast! and those edges on the impeller need attention without even being concerned with the clearances :facepalm:... hahahaha hahahaha hahahaha
if it were me, I`d replaced that impeller anyway with a swirl type and a new wear ring and call it a day...
at this point check the oil in the pump while it`s off...
if it were me, I`d replaced that impeller anyway with a swirl type and a new wear ring and call it a day...
at this point check the oil in the pump while it`s off...
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Guest_User
New Member
:lols:
come on, no one uses the search function anyways, and when they do, no one listens...
:lols::facepalm::cheers:
:seeya:
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Actually... it's not. (assuming the chunk wasn't missing) The surface can be rough, as long as the clearance it OK. So.. Lou's original post is correct. With a few scars, and pits... that wouldn't be a source of bad cavitation.
Dirtrover: If you are having a cavitation issue... then just assume the carbon ring needs changed too. (along with it's support items)
Guest_User
New Member
aw jeez man, where`s your humor!:lols:
anyway, when I see pits and burns like that, it`s time for replacement before it delams or comes apart...
true, may not be his source of cav, but that rough impeller surely isn`t helping him.
Dirtrover
New Member
Thanks for all the tips. BTW I think it was pretty easy to assume the JB weld thing was a joke. Well, something is out of round. Got everything back together, started it and... the impeller dug into the wear ring and locked everything up. I guess the lake will have to wait. I'm just gonna get a bunch of new parts and not play mad scientist anymore. I didn't like that impeller anyway.
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Albysure
New Member
Can you crank it back up?...or does it try to turn over and just stop?.....if so you have the impeller cranked down to tight....take out the spark plugs and see if it turns over...if so you over tightened the impeller to tight or groves have been cut to deep in your impeller shaft...if the oil was bad or gone it will just spin while some of the bearings will lock in place and cut groves..
Dirtrover
New Member
Engine is fine. The impeller is actually making contact with the wear ring. The engine just can't seem to get past the sticky spot and stops. The prop spins free for about 3/4 turn then the contact occurs. This also happens before the impeller is tightened. Impeller shaft looks okay but I don't have a micrometer to make sure. Everything seems fine until the prop goes in the housing.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Probably have to clearance the new wear ring if the starter can't overcome the friction, is there any lube on the inside of the wear ring to help the starter out? Those impellers will rub on their new wear rings at first, which is what makes some aftermarket brands more friendly than others.
Those stone and gravel serrations help cut the new wear ring in.
Those stone and gravel serrations help cut the new wear ring in.
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Dirtrover
New Member
Okay...I think I've decided I'm not gonna waste anymore of the season to save a few hundred bucks. I think the housing is jacked also, so, I'm gonna get a housing and pump that is a bolt on replacement from SBT. Also gonna get a prop and drive line rebuild kit. This puts me at just over $500, but back in the lake with fewer worries. Opinions?
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Guest_User
New Member
regardless of which housing you use, make sure to cross tighten the pump bolts and use the correct torque spec. they will bend out of shape if not brought in evenly compressing the neoprene pump seal...
just a note: aftermarket impellers such as Solas or Skat have a tighter tolerance and will "cut in" into any wear ring.
But I suspect that impeller you have is so out of whack it maybe causing more rubbing/cutting than necc...
personally I use SBT delrin wear rings and so far on several machines I like them. when they wear, they are one piece design, so you not going to blow a hole thru it like the black rubbery plastic of the OEM wear rings and possible delam when water gets forced between the fiberglass part of the OEM wear ring... I`ve seen strange things, and I couldn`t even imagine how an OEM wear ring blows apart and wedges itself into the pump causing more chaos...lol...
I also suggest using only OEM neoprene pump seals, they are the correct outer and inner diameter regardless of wear ring choice...
good luck...
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