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Is this 1998 speedster a good deal?

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Luke42_02

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http://wichita.craigslist.org/boa/4301650655.html

Needs a new drive shaft, he assures me the flywheel is not stripped. Had my father drive out and check it out today. compression is 170 on one engine and 160 on the other. Both cylinders match on each engine. He says I can have it for 3k cash. I feel I can make the repairs fairly easily. This would be my first boat, so any input would be great. Thanks in advance.
 
It's hard to say without seeing the boat. The compression numbers are actually high, it should be in the 150psi range, it could be because of fogging oil in the cylinders. It does look like the boat is in need of a new interior. There's a guy in Jacksonville who can help you out with the upholstery.

http://www.seadooupholstery.com/

Lou
 
This guy's over a barrel IMO, I'd offer him up to $1800 and hem/haw about how so much work might need to be done since it's not running well enough to be water tested. This boat needs work but it will be good once done, and nobody's going to want the risk and time involved of fixing it up. You'll spend more $$ fixing it up to 100% than you might think, IMO, could need gauges, steering or throttle cables, jet pumps rebuild and all kinds of things, plan on replacing at least one motor too, maybe both, these are two-strokers that aren't running!

At least these are all fiberglass composite, so it won't be rotted out like some used boats built with plywood in the layup.
 
I will say I very biased towards this boat, I have a 99 Speedster since new. To me it's hands down the best boat under 18' that Seadoo ever made(especially in Yellow). The interior is not shot, those seats are supposed to look like that, they sorta have a splash pattern on them. Now if they are hard and cracked, that's another story, then you will need to chat with the guy that Lou gave you the link for. The driveshaft, easy fix it's the same one as a 96 XP and many other models and can be had cheap and easy used, check the splines on the impeller if that is the end that stripped. The reverse cable--bound to break at any time. I take good care of my boat and all of a sudden in the driveway operating the gate lever mine snapped up by the controls. It's missing all the red caps for the control levers (esthetics only but I noticed it in the pics). If all you need are those 2 parts you can be fixed for probably less than $200. The trailer needs a fender (unless he has it) and should be bolted down through the foot pad on the fender--the original mounting sucked. I ripped one partially off just pulling out of the ramp a little too quickly. I would offer less but $1800 is down right insulting, especially if he starts it up for you. But if your comfortable starting there by all means do it, cheaper is always better in the long run. There will be standard things that will need to be done, like cleaning carbs and rebuilding them--right there is about $300 with gasket kits and needle and seats, then another $40 in carb gaskets, the boats use a thicker gasket than the ski's do, but a thin one will work.**Very important---> Check the rubber bellows around the exhaust where it exits the hull, they dry rot every couple of years (about 5 years), they are no longer available and you will be fighting me for them on Ebay, LOL I snag them when I can on there. They will leak water right into the hull, guys seal them with silicone and what not-- that's not my bag. I would park the boat before I risked it filling with water. Depending on how mechanically inclined you are if you picked it up for $2500 and had to put 2 SBT engines in it, plus fix all the other stuff you'll be right at "advertised" book value--not necessarily what you would get if you had to dump it. Again, I'm very comfortable with this boat so there is not one repair that I can't handle, if you need to pay someone to do this work, then you might be in over your head. Being you first boat you will have a learning curve but we can help you out here on the forum to get you the knowledge to repair it quickly and get the job done right! Also, consider this a 4 person boat as the bow seat is the bouncy seat. I have thrown a grown man off that seat, yet it's my 9 year old boys favorite seat in the boat. Best of luck, ultimately the choice is your's to jump off the bridge, just be prepared to get in deep with fixing and spending!


Here's the reverse cable, if you can get it at the dealer the OEM one is only $5 more PART#204170058

http://www.shopsbt.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=27-2107R
 
Yes, I thought the interior was trashed but pictures can be deceiving I guess. $1800 would be an insult if the interior is in good shape and the cosmetics are reasonable, I kinda thought it looked like it's been sitting out in the weather uncovered for several years.
 
It does look sun faded but the body should buff out, the seats could clean up, the red handles the weather better than the yellow seats do thats' for sure. But here you can see the markings really good on the seats of a CLEAN boat. The one he's looking at needs some love for sure don't get me wrong.


107.jpg
 
Retail - repairs - risk + will to own , that is how to value it.
These things can be a can of worms.
I would be in it for a lot less than even the offer price, before my will to own would kick in.
 
Well, I guess I'm going to find out. He came down to $2900 and I told him I would take it. I guess I left quite a few details out. My dad said the seats aren't great but they aren't bad either, no cracks or tears. The owner said its common for the seats to shrink on this boat and he says there is a little of that. He did fire up both engines for my father, and he said they both started immediately without need for starter fluid or anything. The boat has been off the water for about a year.

I'm buying it from a guy who makes money on the side by repairing seadoos. I guess he bought the boat a year ago from its original owner. The story is that the original owner his something which put a knick in the impeller and broke the drive shaft. After that, it spent 6 months at the local seadoo dealer who eventually replaced the flywheel and re-used the same drive shaft. First time out after the repair and it immediately failed. At that point, the owner just wanted to be rid of it so he sold it. I'm told the flywheel is great but the drive shaft is stripped out. The boat was properly winterized this winter.

Racerxxx, your info was particularly helpful, if there are any other common wear items that need to be checked please let me know.
 
Even though this is my first boat, I've done a lot of work on cars. My first car was an S-10 pickup that my dad bought totaled out. He parked it in the drive way and said "When you fix it, you can drive it." I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but as compared to most of the people from my generation I'm a friggin master craftsman.

Also, could I get the part number on that baffle? I'm having a hard time looking it up.
 
I think you're doing okay on this one, used boats seem to be bringing a good price this past year. On that rubber through-hull exhaust, I've seen some that were rigged up using plumbing parts from Home Depot as well, b/c the OEM parts were discontinued.
 
I think you got a decent deal. You can redo the whole interior for 400 bucks. Even if you had to throw 2 rebuilt motors in, thats another 2000, and thats with a 2 year warranty. Clean her up and get it running and you got a nice boat. In good shape they easily go for 5000-6000.

Im kinda biased though. My first boat was this exact boat. Ive got tons of threads all over on here about it. I did a lot of work to it and sold it after i played with it for 4 years for 7800.
 
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