Intermittent electric problem theory?

[henryb]

I've noticed that my boat has encountered a variety of electrical problems that all seem to come and go intermittently. Some of which go away and have not come back?

I have a theory that I may have introduced these issues myself... Not knowingly... But I have taken a few steps that I hope to confirm may solve this problem.

My old battery seemed to be nearing the end of its days, so I've had to put it on a trickle charger, basically any day that the boat is not getting used, otherwise it won't have enough juice to start the engine.

Now this trickle charger has its own shutoff mechanism. So it should be safe or so I thought? Now, where I connected the charger to was one of the 12v access ports (ie cigarette lighter ports)... Since the wall socket in my boathouse was right near the glove box... I used the one that is near the radio in the glove box.

Now my theory was that this 12v cig lighter access port would eventually lead back to the battery... and thus it would charge up the battery on a trickle! And it did seem to work? But my new theory is that this charging path may be the cause of many of these intermittent electrical problems, with voltage going to a number of systems... Sort of through the back door, if you will and causing them to behave in an unexpected manner?

I'm not sure if that is really the case, but these are the steps that I am taking to prove my theory:
1. Bought a new Marine Battery (800 CA)
2. Stop doing the trickle charging through the 12v access port.
3. Turning off the main electric knob on days when the boat does not get used.

If the battery ever does drain down, I will charge it directly on its posts, with the main electric knob turned off.


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[Coastiejoe]

I've noticed that my boat has encountered a variety of electrical problems that all seem to come and go intermittently. Some of which go away and have not come back?

I have a theory that I may have introduced these issues myself... Not knowingly... But I have taken a few steps that I hope to confirm may solve this problem.

My old battery seemed to be nearing the end of its days, so I've had to put it on a trickle charger, basically any day that the boat is not getting used, otherwise it won't have enough juice to start the engine.

Now this trickle charger has its own shutoff mechanism. So it should be safe or so I thought? Now, where I connected the charger to was one of the 12v access ports (ie cigarette lighter ports)... Since the wall socket in my boathouse was right near the glove box... I used the one that is near the radio in the glove box.

Now my theory was that this 12v cig lighter access port would eventually lead back to the battery... and thus it would charge up the batter on a trickle! And it did seem to work? But my new theory is that this charging path may be the cause of many of these intermittent electrical problems, with voltage going to a number of systems... Sort of through the back if you will and causing them to behave in an unexpected manner?

I'm not sure if that is really the case, but these are the steps that I am taking to prove my theory:
1. Bought a new Marine Battery (800 CA)
2. Stop doing the trickle charging through the 12v access port.
3. Turning off the main electric knob on days when the boat does not get used.

If the battery ever does drain down, I will charge it directly on its posts, with the main electric knob turned off.


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I think your theory carries some weight. If the 12 volt light was direct wired and not running through the fuse block, then no issues. I did not look up the wire schematics, do you know what it feeds or runs through of hand?

 

[henryb]

My wiring schematic is up at the cottage... I will check next weekend.


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[Coastiejoe]

For the future, you could wire a a 12-volt light setup directly to the battery.

This will allow you to easily charge the battery and not have a concern and bout reverse feed issues..

 

[Dr Honda]

I know Costie has been helping... but I'm going to throw in my 2 cents too.....


1) GOOD !!! The Merc's do not like a weak battery.

2) Good !!! That's not meant to take power in, and since there were electrical changes over the years, who knows what back feeding will do. I just learned that the logic unit for some of the boats was built into the fuse block. (nutZ)

3) This should be a "Must" on your check list. If you leave it on... then your battery will drain down. When I uncovered my boat this spring... I found I left it on all winter, and both my batteries were DEAD. (dam it) Anyway... that's why we have those switches on boats. Oh... but if you have an auto bilge pump, and leave the boat in the water... that pump should be direct to the battery. (so you don't sink)



The best, and safest thing to do, is wire up a pigtail (wire with a plug) direct to your battery. That way, it's easy to plug the charger on.

Oh... and one more thing... Don't use a float charger. Over the years, I've found they cause more issues than they solve. SO... just hook up a regular charger as needed. (once in a while)

 

[henryb]

1) GOOD !!! The Merc's do not like a weak battery.

I was concerned about the battery, but with the trickle charger always on, it seemed to be in good shape... but last weekend, I borrowed an "intelligent" ramp up charger from my neighbor, he said it will be able to tell if the battery will take a full charge or not.... it starts at 10%, goes up 10% at a time.... over night.... it only got up to 50% full. So it was a solid indicator that the battery was toast.

2) Good !!! That's not meant to take power in, and since there were electrical changes over the years, who knows what back feeding will do. I just learned that the logic unit for some of the boats was built into the fuse block. (nutZ)

I really glad to hear that both you and Coastie Joe are in agreement on this. I think that realization may solve alot of these weird problems! Yes, that Fuse Block in my boat does have the "Low Gas Logic" module. Still have not found a good used replacement for it.

3) This should be a "Must" on your check list. If you leave it on... then your battery will drain down. When I uncovered my boat this spring... I found I left it on all winter, and both my batteries were DEAD. (dam it) Anyway... that's why we have those switches on boats. Oh... but if you have an auto bilge pump, and leave the boat in the water... that pump should be direct to the battery. (so you don't sink)

Now, I just hope that I always remember to turn that switch OFF!!!! LOL. My auto bildge pump is wired directly to the battery (with an inline fuse)... so we should be safe.... but the water in my boat house is only 2 feet deep (except around the pump, which is about 3 feet deep), so no chance of sinking!!!

The best, and safest thing to do, is wire up a pigtail (wire with a plug) direct to your battery. That way, it's easy to plug the charger on.

That sounds like a great idea... will do that for sure!

Oh... and one more thing... Don't use a float charger. Over the years, I've found they cause more issues than they solve. SO... just hook up a regular charger as needed. (once in a while)

Not sure what you mean by a "float charger".... I have a trickle charger, I think it has 2amps, and an automatic shut-off switch mechanism so it won't over-charge?