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Impeller clearance question?

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That's nice mine is about .035 there and .020 at outer edges with new OEM wear ring . and my impeller looks impeccable. Let me know what your hole shot is like . maybe I will go with OEM impeller. Which I can purchase locally.instead of wasting a week or two to order one.
 
That's nice mine is about .035 there and .020 at outer edges with new OEM wear ring . and my impeller looks impeccable. Let me know what your hole shot is like . maybe I will go with OEM impeller. Which I can purchase locally.instead of wasting a week or two to order one.

Just got back from the launch ramp, I'm all smiles that stock blade ran the boat nicely! It snaps right up on plane and I was getting 47 mph on my hand help gps with about 3/4 throttle and 6-6500 rpms I don't know if that's in keeping with expected top end but there was some throttle left I didn't want to push it to hard as it's the first time out with it.

I'm satisfied, didn't seem to have any cavitation at all just moved clean water and it ran well right up out of the hole.
 
That's good news! I will call a couple of shops tomorrow see if they have an oem in stock thanks waterluvr for keeping us posted on your results. I especially appreciated seeing the actual measurement as the manual only gives the limits . And given the overall good looking condition of my impeller ( not a nick ,scratch, or dent) I couldn't believe it could be the problem. But it is the same part# as u installed.
And thanks again to everybody who posted . I will post my results after the weekend.
 
Well, any luck finding one Dan? I had the boat out for a longer duration today and I'm really pleased with that stock impeller and there's absolutely no cavitation with it at all. I did change that round seal on the housing where the pump wear ring meets the transom when I put it all back together and I'm sure that helps get it all sealed right.

I'm anxious to see if a new one cures your problem to.
 
Are you guys measuring the clearance AFTER mounting the pump, this is how I would suggest making the measurement. About the thickness of a dime or less, less is better of course. It's not uncommon on the 155mm pumps for the impeller to rub on the wear ring on initial install, the impeller cuts the wear ring slightly on first startup to make the final clearance fit.

If the impeller has no sign of being adjusted then it makes me think it should fit well to a new wear ring. Of course if you were experiencing issues before and don't think the problem was due to wear ring damage it's entirely possible the impeller was reworked at some point and the diameter is too small.
 
I actually did measure mine after I mounted it before I hung the rest of the nozzle parts and my biggest clearance was still .007 and it was almost touching at the tips.

I think Sporter's spot on suspecting there was work done to the impeller at some point and it's not in spec, providing the boat is running well otherwise that's almost got to be the culprit.

Sportster-2001 I have been reading your posts in other threads, man your a wealth of knowledge on these boats thanks for taking the time to lend a hand! I ran an OMC / Merc shop for a long time but we never had anything aside from a few jet lower end tiller outboard motors come through once and while. There's all kinds of things under the hatch on these I have never seen, appreciate the input!
 
Recieved a solas sd-sc-xo bought from seadoo forum classified. Could not get an oem one before Tuesday (long weekend in Canada.)from any of the 5 seadoo dealers in and around montreal. Bought one from doc1 ( who I highly recommend ) shipped overnight and I will install sat morning . As my boat is at my cottage but I checked clearance in old wear ring I replaced . And It is much tighter and even . About 020. With old wearring. I will post my results after the weekend.
 
Just got back from cottage .Solas impeller actually touches wear ring so I spun it around a bit so seat it. No more cavitation pulls good.
But now I can only pull 5500 rpm ( over 7000 before on bad impeller)maybe 6000 by myself. Impeller is a solas sd-sc-xo 16.5/23.5. And a bad intermittent miss at 1/4 throttled onto believe the two are related. Compression is 155psi. New plugs . Cleaned carbs and filters .changed 1 broken rave and cleaned other one . Plugs appear to indicate proper fuel air. Anyway I'll look into fuel system again tomorrow.
 
Just got back from cottage .Solas impeller actually touches wear ring so I spun it around a bit so seat it. No more cavitation pulls good.
But now I can only pull 5500 rpm ( over 7000 before on bad impeller)maybe 6000 by myself. Impeller is a solas sd-sc-xo 16.5/23.5. And a bad intermittent miss at 1/4 throttled onto believe the two are related. Compression is 155psi. New plugs . Cleaned carbs and filters .changed 1 broken rave and cleaned other one . Plugs appear to indicate proper fuel air. Anyway I'll look into fuel system again tomorrow.

Did you get complete kits when you cleaned the carbs or re-use the old parts? I just ordered complete kits along with everything to rebuild the fuel pump and accelerator pump today, took the carbs apart and it was UGLY in there after 17 years. The paint was still on the screws so they hadn't ever been apart.

Judging from the fuel consumption over an hours use pulling tubes last weekend those carbs need all the fuel the pump can provide to feed the upper range of rpm's, that's a thirsty little boat! I put all new fuel and impulse lines in the boat today and changed filters after I got the carbs out and in the tank, hopefully when the kits come it runs well for the rest of the season.
 
No parts. just cleaned them. I was impressed how clean everything was . And since the boat would run all day at 7000 rpm. I assumed all was good . But now with new impeller and added load .i will look again.One thing I did notice when I replaced broken Rave valve was that they seemed pretty loose in there housing . And I don't believe the manual had specs for wear limits.
 
DanosII, I hate to say this but I'm wondering if maybe your original impeller was ventilating from an air leak at the carbon seal?

Edit: A little trick to try if you suspect the carbon seal is on it's last legs and you plan on replacing it anyway is to put a bit of grease on it's face to see if stops leaking air. Once you do this the seal isn't liable to last long with grease on it, so don't try this willy-nilly with a new/good one!

Or another (better?) way to maybe stop an air leak is to put more tension on the carbon ring using zip-ties around the bubber bellows to increase tension.
 
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Yeah, I'm not sure exact;y at which point he replaced the carbon seal. He said he has a new one but not sure if he installed it with the original impeller.

Pretty sure he did the carbon seal same time he installed the OEM impeller, when you mentioned you suspected it had been reworked that was the first thing that came to my mind as well.

At any rate, doesn't sound like there's any cavitation at all now. All else being good, I'd suspect he needs kits in the carbs and pumps to feed the top end properly and make horsepower.
 
I bought the boat with a seized pump. Appears that the previous owner replaced impeller and wear ring but the O ring on the cone was unseated that allowed water infiltration which in turn seized pump . I think he thought it was motor. Because plugs were out . So I rebuilt pump and elf touring and impeller because both looked new and were within spec. After initial run cavitated. So I used freezer method to change wear ring. Still caviated. So I changed impeller. Now no cavitation but the extra load is showing up an underlying problem that was always there but took the extra load to surface.
 
Paid $1700cad for the boat and recent shore lander trailer. boat is very clean .was always covered. No oxidation and seats are nice. Has original cover. We have a blast with it at our cottage. So i don't mind putting a little time and $ into it.
 
I bought the boat with a seized pump. Appears that the previous owner replaced impeller and wear ring but the O ring on the cone was unseated that allowed water infiltration which in turn seized pump . I think he thought it was motor. Because plugs were out . So I rebuilt pump and elf touring and impeller because both looked new and were within spec. After initial run cavitated. So I used freezer method to change wear ring. Still caviated. So I changed impeller. Now no cavitation but the extra load is showing up an underlying problem that was always there but took the extra load to surface.

Right, the reason is b/c if the carbon seal was allowing air to be sucked from the bilge into the pump then your impeller would become ventilated by the air, yielding the same net result as cavitation from excess clearance.
 
These wear taken today. My two boys age 10 and 7
 

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Probably my favorite feature on these boats is the swim platform and that you can actually reach out into the water from most anywhere inside the boat. That green upholstery looks nice.
 
It s perfect for my cottage I'm on a chain of lakes and the rivers that attach are shallow and there are some low bridges. And I live on the st Lawrence in the city with a ramp less then a mile away .one in each direction. And again water has a lot of rocks . And rapids... So I've been getting use out of it ..The boat is very clean for a seventeen year old boat. Appear to have been covered most of the time. ..Just sold an 02 islandia $7200. Not nearly as nice
 
Dan your Challenger looks great and the kids obviously love it! I got lucky finding mine in the condition it's in as well, wasn't used much and never saw one night outside of the garage it was stored in the seats still look like new.

I think these boats are well worth spending whatever it takes to keep them going, I would venture a guess these can be repowered 3 times for the cost of what a newer larger 4-stroke jet boat would take to make one right again.

I really like the Challenger, and it's easy to move around on the trailer without being hooked to the tow vehicle.
 
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