Hi Fallslake and those of you that have replaced the motor on these actuators...,
I just replaced the motor on my iBR actuator on my 2017 Wake 155. The whole thing was caused by one of the motor brushes that broke internally and of course the motor died. I bought a new motor and installed it but don't want to put everything back together unless i am sure this will work without having to go to the dealer for a "computer reset". I am trying to test it before installing the whole thing back in, but can't seem to be able to get it to extend/retract using the iBR override feature. Can you tell me if there's any tricks to reset the computer/calibrate the movement of the actuator? Do i start with the actuator retracted? extended? or in the mid position? Are there any steps required to perform ? Or should i just install it and test it with everything re-installed? I would have thought that using the over-ride feature I would be able to verify it works OK before sealing everything back up. When i installed it with the actuator in the mid position, using the iBR over-ride feature, i was able to extend it all the way, but then, i couldn't retract it. It goes max extension and will not retract...and at that point i remove the actuator from the boat and open it up to find the motor a little hot. BTW, I can actuate the motor in both directions by hooking it up to a 12 volt battery. It works great, fast and plenty of torque and the actuator extends and retracts perfectly.
What do you think?
Thanks,
OconeeSeaDoo
Ricky
The iBR system was put back together and thoroughly lubricated with no issues. When i activate the motor using battery power direct to the motor, it extends and retracts with absolutely no issues. The issue is that I am trying to use the iBR over-ride feature to extend/retract and nothing happens. I am able to extend, but it won't retract... I went to a dealer and they suggested to install everything and try it with engine running. They said that if it didn't work, they might need to "re-flash" the computer, but they said that it should work fine without having to do that. If the position sensor has gone bad, then I might have to buy an actuator... I am going to install it tomorrow and give it a shot and see what happens...I will report backDid you clean everything thoroughly and re lubricate? Especially the sensor arm, and ensure its correct placement on replacement?
The override has no problem without calibration as long as it was rebuilt according to how it was when disassembled.
It's sensor arm is how the position of the ibr shaft is managed. If that's out of alignment, dirty, or improperly lubricated, it would need more work to get it right.
The iBR system was put back together and thoroughly lubricated with no issues. When i activate the motor using battery power direct to the motor, it extends and retracts with absolutely no issues. The issue is that I am trying to use the iBR over-ride feature to extend/retract and nothing happens. I am able to extend, but it won't retract... I went to a dealer and they suggested to install everything and try it with engine running. They said that if it didn't work, they might need to "re-flash" the computer, but they said that it should work fine without having to do that. If the position sensor has gone bad, then I might have to buy an actuator... I am going to install it tomorrow and give it a shot and see what happens...I will report back
You should not have to go to that extent. If the pack was rebuilt correctly, and the electronics are in good shape, it would perform as expected when using override.
That's also provided you don't have a harness, battery, or other issue.
Hello thank you for posting this , I have tested the above motor along with 5 diff 775 motors they all move but will not calibrate in fact the ibr mechanism is a whopping 2-3 second slower from full up to down to up again , so yes it moves but it is not the correct motor for the job .yes it is all important. This is the exact motor that you need:
So what motor do you need for this?
Don't mislead people, just to sell your higher priced parts.I have then in stock and sell them $150 shipped anywhere in the USA , pm me , all the motors listed above all work but are weak and fail the calibration test .
Don't mislead people, just to sell your higher priced parts.
I mean, you're wrong. I have used that exact motor plenty of times, and have had zero failures. Each unit still functions flawlessly, and had no issue with calibration. I can't believe that it's only attributed to Amazing Luck.Not misleading , the motor you posted works but docent calibrate or pass the buds tests so it’s not suitable for this application , only because it fits and move the bucket docent make it a perfect match , you normally get what you pay for .
I mean, you're wrong. I have used that exact motor plenty of times, and have had zero failures. Each unit still functions flawlessly, and had no issue with calibration. I can't believe that it's only attributed to Amazing Luck.
Don't mislead people, just to sell your higher priced parts.
Calibration test fails because sometimes people don't pay attention to the original sensor location when taking apart / putting back together the worm gear assembly. Also, internal lubrication / sealing plays a role in success.
Yes, SOME aftermarket motors won't do the trick, but just read and verify them before placing into service.
Hey guys, first time posting here. I successfully replaced the DC motor in my IBR actuator with the motor that Steve listed above. It was a definite pain in the @$$, but worth it to save 600-700 bucks! It was really rough getting the gear off of the end of the old motor. Had a hard time finding a puller that would work. It took some redneck ingenuity, but I got it back together and had a successful test run. I'd say give yourself a good 2-3 days to do the job start to finish. ..Just wanted to let everybody know that it is possible to change out the motor without buying an entire actuator.
By the way, my symptoms were an IBR fault light and beep on the dash. Once that activated, it would be stuck in forward and would not move to neutral or reverse. Pulled the fault codes and it said that the BRLS (brake/reverse lever sensor) was bad:
c0042 - brake lever sensor brls signals A open or shorted to ground
c0043 - brake lever sensor brls signals B open or shorted to ground
This led me to waste a lot of time checking the wiring and even needlessly replacing the BRLS for $130! Long story long - these 2nd gen IBR's seem to have a lot of problems with motors burning up (as I've been reading on other forums) and the fault codes may lead you down the wrong path.
Started to take pictures, but then got tired of stopping, so this is all I have...
I have a 2017 ibr that’s its giving me codes and will stop moving, I opened up and everything looks good and new like yours i Applied power and motor mover in both directions I see no wear, was yours the same ?