Please, keep it clean...!
First off, it went to the dealership because I wanted all the pop off pressures checked and do not have the proper instruments. Second, I have photos of the pistons through the exhaust manifold of where the rotary valves gouged the pistons, and the ports were not chamfered. Now snipe I respect your knowledge, but on this one you are way off. Am I pissed, yes I am, you would assume a motor is correct when you pay that much for motor and shipping. Then when it obviously that wrong or defective, to have to pay shipping again to ship it back to them is ridiculous. Before you just start slamming someone snipe, better ask the correct questions, because although I respect your knowledge, your slamming comments are bullsh*t. Am I an expert, no, never professed to be, do I have above average knowledge, yes I assume I do, but when two other mechanics are with me changing the engine, and they say the same thing, the ports aren't chamfered, and the rave valve clearance was not adjusted correctly and the rave valve gouged the piston. The SBT guy I spoke with said the motor was bored, now if they did not properly check the rave valve clearance, that is where this could happen. But their explanation is that the motor was lean. If that is the cause, then everyone on here saying to run 50:1 mixture in the fuel, plus I also ran the oil injection, properly aligned with two turns in on the screw, then adjust it, then everyone is wrong, huh? Why I will not deal with them is not the fact of the bad motor, but the handling of it, and how they tried to put off any wrond doing on their part, and making me pay the shipping for something that was shipped wrong in the first place. Also, the one rave valve was pushed up hard enough the top part with the boot and everything was messed up, and you could tell it was not right, but did not take apart to check it and photograph it so the warranty would not be voided. Could I have done the same thing rebuilding a motor myself, yes I could have, could have made same mistakes or not, but the idea is, with working so much I did not have the time, so I paid for that service, and it was not done correctly, then I have to incur more cost for them to do it right, that is my complaint.
So, you've had your say and in this same response, you seem to be doing one thing, "screaming foul"..........(by the way, I had to edit your language). Although you said, "in your opinion"....you did continue to rant about inconsistencies.
If you've ever read my threads and posts, you see I have said many times over, "I am no better than anyone else in this forum," I only moderate it. I'm not God and don't pretend to be. I'll tell you straight up, Bill O'Neal is the smartest man I have ever met in a forum setting. I have put many people above me. When I read from someone, who has posted their work and experience, I enjoy reading their theory of what it was and how it was that they fixed or replaced it. PWCdoc is someone I highly respect, along with Dr.Honda and Chester. There have been many others come and go but they are still here, for the most part. His knowledge is obviously, very high. Above me?....I don't know. I'm not here to judge that. Wisdom and experience come with age and your success rate in what you've tore into. You decide on how good your getting on small engine repair, by how many motors you actually get running again, not with "school".
I'm not here to slam you, just here to play the devil's advocate because you did not make your thread as informative, you made the thread as a rant. You were screaming foul. Why?....
Here is my problem with your thread, and even still. The very first thing you say you did, "First off, it went to the dealership because I wanted all the pop off pressures checked and do not have the proper instruments". If you have really read through the forum, how many people in here do you see place any trust in what they (dealerships) do? For all we know, as soon as you took it to a dealer, they dropped something in the exhaust port, spun the engine over and damaged it, unless you can counter by some way that when you delivered the motor, you stood over their shoulder the entire time your motor was in their possession. I guess, for me, it's kinda like comparing a pee test. Unless you witnessed this from beginning to end, who's at fault if it comes back positive? Did someone taint your sample or where you actually guilty? I did not say SBT did not send you a bad motor, I simply told you about my experience with them and what I've seen in many motors ruined by novice or beginner mechanics. Does this include you, I don't know. I have no idea of who you are. I only know what I read doesn't fit the timeline.
Again here, by stating "pop off pressures"...then I assume you're talking about your carbs. Since I do not know of any other pop off pressures done on a Rotax engine. If that's the case, the carbs were not together when you took the engine to them (or they were and they took them apart again to check the pop-off). The inconsistencies in your threads timeline is what leads me to this issue of ignorance. Remember, ignorance is not a defamatory word. It only means "un-informed"......that's all. It's not like I was calling you a name. I hope, by pointing out the problems in your story, you see why I have the problems with "ignorance".
The issues with "chamfer".....? Again, from your thread I quote, "the ports aren't chamfered, and the rave valve clearance was not adjusted correctly and the rave valve gouged the piston. The SBT guy I spoke with said the motor was bored, now if they did not properly check the rave valve clearance, that is where this could happen." No, this is not the case. I would have to measure it to prove my point but in my opinion (and experience with the SBT engines), this can't happen and here's why. On the 787cc engine, the cylinder bore is 3.228". This engine (and the 951) is only designed to be bored once over at .010". The reason for this is due to the RAVE clearance. It can be bored over one time without changing the dimensions of the slide valve. You can bore this engine over again, only if you also cut the RAVE down, but a remanufacturer will re-sleeve rather than bore over because of the work it takes to chamfer a slide valve (the exhaust port itself is not chamfered). It's not feasible to spend the extra money and man hours on doing this. Now, if you race and have your own machine shop and time is not of the essence, then you might want to bore over twice and cut down the slide valve. That's why it is not recommended to bore over more than one time. The other 2 stroke Rotax engines, without RAVE's can be bored twice over.
As for the crankshaft issue that PWCdoc states, that is another issue. Although I respect him for his abilities, he's also not in the market to buy those type motors, he's got his own shop. And this is "totally my opinion".....why would PWCdoc say anything good about competition? That takes money from his pockets? You don't hear me bragging about how good any of the other forums are, do you?
Short Block Technologies bought out USA Shortblock a few years back. They have been in business for over 10 years, that I know of. Which means, how many motors?........I have no clue. But, I think (again, opinion) if their product was faulty on a continuous basis, they would be "out of business". One other thing. .....Have you ever read their home page? They state what they will and will not do. What it cost extra and what they will give you. In other words, if they were being deceitful in their advertising strategies, then they would have one suit after the other pending in a court of law for misrepresentation.
Had you made your case in a thread, where you said you got the motor in a crate (they come boxed in a hardening spray foam) and when you opened it, you saw the obvious damage to the RAVE bellows (which would be easy to see, since the caps do not come with them) and looked inside the exhaust ports and saw the gouges in the piston, I'd be all over this and calling them myself for you!!!!!!!!!! But you didn't. Or, that's how you wrote the thread anyway.
I'm always open for debate. When I first read your thread, I saw a very angry customer who did not get what he wanted (or expected). In a forum, it's all in the way you present yourself and from the "get-go" you were very accusatory toward SBT. Never once pointing out that maybe (like I said, unless you were there with your engine, the entire time) the place you took the engine to, might have done something to damage it.
I'm not perfect, example: This past season, I had a guy bring me his GSX. Right away, I spotted the fuel lines (grey) and told him, his problem was the lines and needed replaced along with the carb kits. Well, guess what. When I got it all done, I took it out, it still ran like junk. Then, after removing the seat, smelled the exhaust gas. My diagnosis was wrong in telling him that his carbs and fuel line is what caused his bad running motor, it was a split exhaust hose. But, I did advise him he needed to replace the lines anyway.
So, unless you show me some threads where I have said "I'm perfect" or "I don't make mistakes"....please don't write things that are not true about me. I did not make up anything I wrote in reply to your thread, only what you stated as evident to me through your words.
You are free to express yourself here too, as long as it's in the good taste our forum is known for, not any foul language type responses. In my opinion, foul language is the easiest way to prove ignorance. So please, keep it clean.
:cheers:
