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I think Im screwed

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The only thing i can think is that you oil is contaminated with water, or you have water in the fuel. Check your lines, oil and fuel make sure you dont have water in either tanks to be sure you could disconnect and drain some out. Check oil filters maybe.
the only other place i can think of is the oil bath at the bottom of the motor, for the crank and rotory gears, but this should not get to the combustion chambers unless it is been returned through the oil reserve tank, so checking for water in this tank should show that there is or isn't water in there.
Worst case senario get it to a dealer so they can get it started, it will cost you, but it will be cheaper than letting the cylinders and bearings rust.
 
Oh man you said this happened on Monday! This is Friday. Get it running or get it get it to a dealer. The clock is gonna stop ticking and your engines will be ruined!
 
you may need to remove intake and let water drain from rotory ports and then try to suck up what is left with paper towels or rags turn engine over by hand to expose both rotory ports. good luck as I can allways be wrong. Robin:)
It looks like I gave bad advise here. I know this is not your boat but it may give you an idea I have allso read that it can take from 30 minutes to 2 hours to get the water out of your engine. and to not start for more than 30 seconds at a time as you can over heat starter. and remove any kind of air box if you have one as it may have water in it as well I hope that this may help.http://www.sbtontheweb.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12031 :cheers:
 
It happens to all of us at one time or another Robin. Sometimes things work different for some folks and not others. No harm done I'm sure. :cheers:

Karl
 
Oil/water mix.....

After reading all the post and replies, it seems your having an over abundant amount of oil in the cylinders and your not drying out the combustion chambers.
Are you keeping an eye on the level in your oil tank? Re-post if you've noticed a significant loss of oil. With the amount of oily sludge you appear to be getting, I'm concerned that the oil seal(s) to the rotary chamber are shot.
Since it's been several days and your engine has lubrication, it may be time to start disconnecting some of your components to clean out your exhaust, combustion and intake systems.
You should have your air induction cover (black plastic) removed. Take out the 6 screws and remove the flame arrestor. This way, you'll expose the throttle plates. Look inside, what do you see? If the throttle plates are showing signs of rust, spray a dab of WD in it..........don't over do it. Sounds like you got enough oil in the motor for the moment.
The next thing you can do....and this is just temporary, pinch the oil line going to the rotary chamber. This will stop the oil from getting into the combustion chamber if there is a bad seal.
Make sure your fuel is in the off position. You don't need anymore liquids going to the motor.
Try spinning the motor over again for several revolutions to see if you can expel the oily sludge. If you get to a point where theres not a lot coming out, then you may be o.k. to try and fire off. Like "gunsrunner" said, if you can get this thing started, then the heat off the engine is going to dry the rest of it out.
In extreme cases of hard sludge, you may want to put in a half cup of fuel/oil gas mix in each plug hole, then role the engine over several times, expelling the mix. The fuel will help cut through the sludge and remove it. Make sure you put a rag over the spark plug holes to catch the blowing discharge.
The idea that the pressure from your cylinders can't expel water in the exhaust system is incorrect. IF your compression is good, this shouldn't be a problem. You won't be able to expel it with the plugs out though. Which brings up a good point. If you still have material in that tuned pipe, you may need to put the plugs in and roll the engine enough to expel what's in the exhuast system and resonator.
Your also at a point where you my find yourself removing the head cover. In doing this, you'll be able to check the pistons and look for any signs of damage from the water. You'll also be able to roll one piston at a time to the bottom of its travel and use some type of siphon (I use a shop vac with a 1/2" hose taped to the end. If you look at the bottom of the cylinder, you'll see openings in the cylinder sleeve. You can use this hose to push through into the bottom of the crankcase and suck out any excess that is in the bottom. If the oil and water has created a sludge, it's heavy and will settle in that combustion chamber.
Lastly, that balance shaft that Karl has told you about, if water has crossed those seals and mixed with your 30 wt motor oil, then you will have to do what you can to take as much out as you can. It only holds an ounce, so you may not get much. Just make sure it's topped off. Once the engine is running and heats up, the moisture in that oil will also evaporate. But you'll have to check it again after your running.
There are a lot of good response here to your problem. In my reply, I don't expect you to do all the above referenced work. It's just some ideas for you to ponder if you think you've done everything else. You can use what you want and dump the rest.
If this was my situation (understand, I'm a backyard-shadetree mechanic) and I was having a problem with this much sludge, I'd drown the engine in a liquid degreaser.........pouring it in quite liberally. Then, slowly turn the engine over by hand at the rear shaft to stir it up and help dissolve the sludge. Then, after rolling it over by hand to the point most has expelled through the cylinders or exhaust, I'd spin the engine over, then put the plugs in and spin it more.............
Your doing good, keep the engine from locking up!....that is the most important. The second is the electricals and you've said you got spark.
Remember, if you pinch your rotary oil line, don't forget you've done it.
Sorry for the long reply, but it's part of what I do..............I talk alot!:cheers:
 
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I got it. Finally fired with enough crankin. both sound rough but will take for a ride today. Thank you so much to everyone for the help.
 
Run it for a long while and take it easy when running. Keep us posted curious as to the where the water was coming in and how your motors turn out.

Good Luck!
 
both motors were sluggish at first but i slowly openen them up and finally it took off like a rocket. anyway, i got the boat on the trailer and on dry land and will try to fix the leak today. also, theseaweed lever seems jammed, any ideas?
 
That's great you got it going...any longer and it would have been toast! The weedless lever might need lube. You need to twist as you pull it. Look under the front storage bin in front of the steering wheel and see if it needs some lube, or grease to help it work.

Karl
 
Keep the motors running, each day start them, make sure you give them a good fogging with lube in the airbox throught the small plug holes, dont run them for to long on the hose(15secs) or keep the carbon ring wet while running motors. Dont forget to check the oil in the counter balance area.
Well done on getting them running, but don't relax just yet, check for water everywhere!!
You should be able to remove seat cushions and take them to a marine motor trimmer's to get vinyl replaced, shouldn't cost to much!!
There is an oil passage from the crankcase toward the balance shaft gear and bearing. Therefore, water that enters the engine, can flow through this passage and be trapped in a cavity. Proper draining of this water is required. NOTE: On twin-engine models, perform the operation on each engine.
Engine Draining
Check engine drain tube running from engine manifold fitting to outlet socket. Make sure there is no sand or other particles in it and that it is not obstructed so that water can leave the engine.
Clean tube and outlet socket as necessary. In the event water entered the engine during the season (water flood), water might have been trapped in the oil cavity of the balance shaft gear and bearing. Draining is required to prevent any potential damage. Proceed as follows. Remove both top and bottom plugs from crankcase at PTO area. Failure to properly drain this cavity may result in freezing inside engine leading to damage of cylinder base gasket. Allow oil to drain. Reinstall bottom plug and add 30 mL (1 oz) of motor oil SAE 30 through top filler hole. Reinstall top plug.
 
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