I have a question on a 96 GSX

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Davidgsx

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HI all, this is my first post here, Ive been lurking around and it seems to be a top notch site!
Although in the past I have owned a couple of wave runners and an Aquatrax, i got married had a couple kids and the toys went away.
I just picked up a gift from a friend and thought it might me a nice project for me and my boys, its a 1996 GSX, according to him it ran perfect last season but when he went to start it this season it would not crank over, you can remove the plugs and turn the motor over by hand but it then stops. its as if its hitting something. Any thoughts or ideas would be so appreciated. I had a thought that something fell down a carb? just a thought. worst case i pull the motor and rebuild but would rather get this motor running if possible.
Thanks again everyone!
 
It is possible that a bolt in the intake box came out and went through the carb and is stuck somewhere. Are you sure it is stuck in the motor and not the pump? If you think it is the motor, then pull the carbs. Pay attention to see if all the bolts are there in the intake. Then look at the rotary valve. And proceed from there I guess. It could be something on the stator side as well.
 
I'm thinking carb but I should have a look in the pump first. I can grab the flywheel ( not sure if that's what it's called here but...) and turn the motor over a little ways, can hear the pistons moving and compression, it's not frozen. Just seems to stop on somthing. I'll pull the carbs and see what I find. Is there a manual I could download? Thanks for your help!!!
 
Could be a rust ring in the cylinder as well. He may have ingested some water and created the issue. If you don't see any missing bolts, then spray something like raster blaster into the cylinders. Let it sit a bit and see if that helps.
 
So i woke up early and went out to the garage and started to remove the "air box" (please excuse my terminology I work on motorcycles and cars mostly) as I started to remove the six Allen's from the spark arrestor I noticed the base portion was pretty darn loose. I was excited as this seemed to go along with my theory that a bolt came loose and fell in. Well what do you know after removing the screen to reveal the 4 bolts holding the base to the 2 carbs. only 3 allen bolts were there, the other one is gone.I grabbed my trusty magnet only to find out those bolts are not magnetic :( Any idea on how I should get that sucker out? Will I have to remove the round plate? Is there some timing issue if I do? Any help you guys can give would be really appreciated!!
 
yes the rotary valve plate has to be timed, its not hard to do but removing that plate might not buy you much more room to work with. The only thing i can think out to grab it would be one of these,
70393.jpg
 
Remove the carbs., remove the intake manifold. This will not only give you a chance to find the missing bolt but also inspect the rotary valve.

Lou
 
So I have to remove the round plate/intake manifold. How hard is it to time? Any special tools needed?
Thanks again guys


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like lou said take the carbs off and look if u can see the bolt. once u have the bolt out make sure the rotary valve is not damage and spins freely as the motor turns over. i would avoid taking the rotary cover off if possible. make sure there are no nicks or dents in the rotary plate.
 
How would I inspect rotary valve if I don't remove plate? I you mean I should hand rotate after finding bolt?


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Yes. if you find the bolt, and get it out, then rotate the motor over by had and inspect it. If you need to, remove the rotary valve cover. Try to keep it in place and then precisely mark the cover and the splines where I mates to the rotary valve. Then you can pull the valve off. You will not need any tools to time it then if you marked it well. The cover is on with an o-ring so you will not need any new gaskets. If the valve is damaged, then you probably need to replace it and then you will need a timing gauge and TDC indicator.
 
So this could be catastrophic, i removed the rotary valve cover to immediately find evidence of the F,ing bolt! the rotary valve has a little chewed up area on the leading edge. the plate it spins on ( engine block) has a nice grove, whats worse is the bolt is gone into the motor. my only hope would be its riding on top on a piston. I can now rotate the motor almost 360 degrees before it stops. Do you guys think there is any chance its on top of a piston? you think id i pull the head off it might be there? is it worth a shot? if not and its in fact in the bottom end then I'm pulling the motor!!!! over a little screw!!! bummer




photo.JPG
 
Probably not, most likely it's in the bottom, damn law of gravity. This is really going to piss you off, unless the screw was accidentally dropped down the carb. the P.O. probably had the wrong screw in the wrong hole. The assembly is designed with the bolts being intentionally long so if one does come loose it won't come out and go into the carb. But looking on the bright side you got the ski cheap and kinda expected this.

Lou
 
well its one of the screws (short) that holds the base of the air box to the carbs, they were all short (all wrong?) What a bummer!!! So to recap, there is no way to get to that from the top? you think if i pulled the top end i could reach it from the top or would the rods be in the way? really was hoping to not pull the whole motor! if i did pull the motor could i split the case at the bottom with out pulling the top end or I'm i just in for a complete rebuild?
 
Good news/bad news, yea you could pull the jugs and probably get the screw out, bad news from what I'm seeing one the rotary valve the engine block will probably need to be re-surfaced, so the engine would need to come out anyway. If it were me I would just get a rebuilt short block.

Before we get too carried away lets get an opinion from an expert, [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] Dan what do you think?

Lou
 
Hate to be a over optimist but if I could it out from the top I could maybe fine sand the block? Seems like there is no compression issue there, does it not just need to spin with no drag! I'm just fishing here


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She's done, time for cases. Sorry. I like to save everything, but this is not worth the effort.

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Don't candy coat it, just give it to me straight! Lol! So it's a pull the motor rebuild? Is there a place I should go for motor or should I just replace the case? Sorry for all the questions just trying to figure out the most economical way here


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SES builds a quality engine, as does SBT. SBT will have you on the water in 3 days. Both offer 2 year no fault warranties
 
So, I did some searching and found a guy who bought the same exact ski put a new top end in it only to find out he can't register it. He wants 1000 for it but went down to 600. Seems like a good deal as a rebuilt motor will cost me a lot more. I'll still be in for less than a grand with a new trailrite trailer. Maybe it will all work out. I can still part out the rest of the other ski


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If he only rebuilt the top end of the engine you don't know that the old crank is any good and will handle that new top end. I would say that is not worth the gamble. For the money you would be better off just doing a engine swap from sbt and you know you will have a completely rebuilt engine with a warranty.


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