Hydralock...What now?

[staceyrides]

So, the engine compartment of my 97 Speedster flooded today and stranded me and my wife. When I tried to start the engines before I realized the auto bilge wasn't working, the port engine wouldn't start, but would turn over. When I tried to start the starboard engine, it just went...chunk and wouldn't turn over. After the bilge finally pumped out, I was able to get the port engine started. I took the spark plugs out of the starboard engine and turned it over; it spewed oily water like a geiser. I used the port engine to limp back to the dock and trailered the boat.

After getting back to the campsite, I decided to see if the hydralocked engine would fire up. Afer several minutes it seemed to spark and I was finally able to get it running.

My question is if that means all the water is out and the engine is good to go or if there is something else I need to do. Also, the port engine that didn't hydralock will rev up to 3K rpm and stay there; it will not idle down.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've read on here that you shouldn't leave a hydralocked engine sitting for very long before getting the water out. How do I do that or have I already?

 

[Brew Master]

IMO the best thing you can do to a hydro locked motor is once you get it running to run it for a while and let it clear out all the water. Then fog the crap out of it when your done. When I say run it some more I mean for 20 - 30 minutes, not just for a few seconds on the trailer.

 

[jhjesse]

If the engine is still hydro locked:

Pull the plugs. Install the plug wires on the grounding posts and crank the engine in short bursts (don't overheat the starter) until all the water is out. Re-install the plugs and get the engine started. After you get it started and running for a couple minutes, shut it off and fog the engine.

 

[Dr Honda]

You did the right thing with getting it started.

With that said... you should run it long enough to build a little heat in the engine, to really drive out the water. If it's still on the trailer, and won't be in the water for a while... start it a few more times... and let it run for about 20 sec each time. (and totally cool in between) Also... a heavy shot of fogging oil will help protect things.


And... needless to say... get your bilge pump fixed, and figure out if you have more of a leak other than just water seeping past the carbon seals.

 

[staceyrides]

OK, this morning I was able to take the boat out and run it for about 30 min. First I put a can of SeaFoam in the tank then ran it at 6K rpm for a while then stopped and started several more time; prob 20 min worth of running. Then I put the boat on the trailer and fogged both engines as if I was winterizing them while the boat was still on the ramp.

I may go out this weekend, but it could be a couple of weeks before it's on the water again, so I wanted to be sure to get the water out and protect the internals as much as possible, especially on the engine that hydro-locked.

How'd I do? This is the first time anything like this has happened. I just remember reading about pulling the plugs and turning over the engine to pump the water out. The rest I just guessed at as far as getting the engine started, etc. I had already thought that fogging it would be wise once I was able to get the hydro-locked one started.

When I backed in on the ramp this morning, I opened the hood and could see a pretty good stream of water coming in on the starboard side of the stern already, so it seems that it is coming in through a fitting or some place back there. I have suspected seepage through the seam between the top cap and hull at the swim platform for a while, but this is much worse than any time before.

Where are the places on the stern where leaks most commonly occur? I probably need a big tube of silicon and should likely try to seal every place where leakage might be happening.

Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

 

[scski]

Take a look at the through-hull exhaust gaskets as well as your cable exits.