Hydolocked with oil?

[MEDOO]

My port motor wouldn't turn over, so I pulled the plugs and the red 2 cycle oil blew EVERYWHERE from the front cylinder, the rear cylinder didn't blow any. I put the rear plug in and it still turned over. When I put the front plug in it won't turn over. So I guess the front cylinder is hydrolocking with the motor oil. How the heck is it doing this? Just the front cylinder flooding with oil....

 

[Coastiejoe]

My port motor wouldn't turn over, so I pulled the plugs and the red 2 cycle oil blew EVERYWHERE from the front cylinder, the rear cylinder didn't blow any. I put the rear plug in and it still turned over. When I put the front plug in it won't turn over. So I guess the front cylinder is hydrolocking with the motor oil. How the heck is it doing this? Just the front cylinder flooding with oil....

Crank shaft seal has gone bad.

The oil rest against this seal. If the seal is bad it lets the oil into the enngine and fills up the cylinder. Once the oil is in the cylinder, it locks up the engine.

You can test this by,,, making sure there is oil in the tank, remove and clean or replace the plugs, crank the engine a bit to clear the oil. I suggest a towel above the cylinders. Put the plugs back in and get it fired up to dry out the cylinders a bit.

Turn it off. Pinch the oil line so that no oil can run from the tank. Let is sit for at least 24 hours. Remove the pinch pliers and see if it fires up like it should. If so,,, the seal is bad. If not, it is coming from somewhere else. That said,, this seal fails often.

No easy fix per say. Either pinch the line whenever it is stored, or pull the engine and replace the seal. If you do the punch thing, I STRONGLY suggest that you hang your ignition/start key/tether on the pliers so that you don't accidentally start the engine without oil..

 

[Dr Honda]

Yep.... what he said.

But.... "Red oil" ?? What brand are you running?

 

[LouDoo]

The new XPSII is red.

Lou

 

[MEDOO]

The yellow bottle XPS, looks almost like transmission fluid when its blown all over the place.

Got the cylinder cleaned out, it took ALOT of cranking and oil blown all over the place. Stuck the plug back in and still won't turn over. Now it just has a high pitched buzz when I push the starter button, with or without the plug in. I think something is going on with the starter circuit also.

 

[MEDOO]

I'm going to clamp the oil line coming from the oil tank. But there are 2 lines, a larger one and a smaller one. Which one would I clamp off, or clamp both to cut off the oil flow to the engine?

 

[Coastiejoe]

I THINK it is the large one. But can't go wrong clamping both.

Get the battery on a trickle charge. If over 2 amps disconnect the battery wire.

The humming is likely low voltage and out starters HATE low volts to begin with.

 

[MEDOO]

Ok, yeah I just clamped off both lines. I will get it on a charger and see what happens, thanks.

 

[Dr Honda]

The new XPSII is red.

Lou

OK.

I bought a case of XPSII at the beginning of summer, and it was still the brown version. I don't like to see change like this, because that tells me someone else is making their oil.

 

[racerxxx]

Yes. The oil is now made by Red Line, not Castrol. I had posted a pic earlier in the season of the color.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2

 

[MEDOO]

When the cylinder blew red oil out I was alarmed, what is this stuff (my son had added the last oil). I still had a half gallon of it left. Went and checked it, yep its red, more red in color than was in the tank, so I have obviously mixed the 2 brands...

 

[Guest_User]

Yes. The oil is now made by Red Line, not Castrol. I had posted a pic earlier in the season of the color.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2

Hi Dan, can ya point us to the specifics? Is that why the enormous price hike bc of a vendor change?

I`m sure it is to BRP specs, and Castrol had a long run, I wonder what prompted the change? probably a money savings pencil pushing thing bc you know it`s not so much for the consumer these days...

Does RedlIne have their own equivalent on the shelf?

 

[LouDoo]

Not knowing any difference I mixed the old XPSII with the new red XPSII, I've now run through about 2-1/2gals. of the new stuff in my 96GSX with no problems.

Lou

 

[Guest_User]

Not knowing any difference I mixed the old XPSII with the new red XPSII, I've now run through about 2-1/2gals. of the new stuff in my 96GSX with no problems.

Lou

that`s cool...

I`m curious to why they changed vendors. severing a long time partnership like that just smells fishy...

and for RedLine to be the new vendor, was it lowest bidder?

it would be nice if they had competitive pricing and the dealers not rape the customer , you`d think it was "unobtainium" or something...

 

[racerxxx]

Hi Dan, can ya point us to the specifics? Is that why the enormous price hike bc of a vendor change?

I`m sure it is to BRP specs, and Castrol had a long run, I wonder what prompted the change? probably a money savings pencil pushing thing bc you know it`s not so much for the consumer these days...

Does RedlIne have their own equivalent on the shelf?

I'll have to try and dig it up, I swear it used to be on the MSDS. I know the old MSDS said Castrol but it looks as if they have taken off all manufacturers names from the MSDS's. I would say the Redline Snowmobile oils is the equivalent, being it's "low ash", but the rest of the specs are gray on their site (redline), not to mention the Redline is more expensive as per their website. I would have to agree, dollars and cents is what drove the change. Not sure what about the price hike?? I never noticed a difference. My local dealer charges $52.99 a gallon, but will honor their website prices of $44.99 a gallon. I used to buy online a case at a time, now that they will give me that price I just go to them and let them hold my inventory and buy it by the gallon. I'll say I've never strayed from their oil, even in my sleds. All my XP and Speedster saw this year was the red stuff.

 

[Guest_User]

I'll have to try and dig it up, I swear it used to be on the MSDS. I know the old MSDS said Castrol but it looks as if they have taken off all manufacturers names from the MSDS's. I would say the Redline Snowmobile oils is the equivalent, being it's "low ash", but the rest of the specs are gray on their site (redline), not to mention the Redline is more expensive as per their website. I would have to agree, dollars and cents is what drove the change. Not sure what about the price hike?? I never noticed a difference. My local dealer charges $52.99 a gallon, but will honor their website prices of $44.99 a gallon. I used to buy online a case at a time, now that they will give me that price I just go to them and let them hold my inventory and buy it by the gallon. I'll say I've never strayed from their oil, even in my sleds. All my XP and Speedster saw this year was the red stuff.

Thanks Dan, cool that you stick to your regimen. I just can`t justify that price when I can get good/better/equivalent oils for less and convenient for me... man I couldn`t even imagine what they would charge around here as I don`t see a dealer anywhere close by...

RedLine products have their place in the racing world, I used to run their oil in the nissan trans, and all Ford rear diff`s. but that has also changed and using strictly Amsoil now...

man 52xx a gallon, that`s crack robbery...

 

[Luv2Camp]

Not knowing any difference I mixed the old XPSII with the new red XPSII, I've now run through about 2-1/2gals. of the new stuff in my 96GSX with no problems.

Lou

I have a 1/2 tank of the BRP oil left. I bought 4 gallons of the quicksilver PWC low ash at walmart for $27 a gallon. Once I burn most of the reminder in my tank at the start if next season, a flush and switchover to the quicksilver I go... Used 3 gallons this season of BRP and just too expensive to justify if I can still get the low ash PWC oil for $27.

 

[jhjesse]

Not knowing any difference I mixed the old XPSII with the new red XPSII, I've now run through about 2-1/2gals. of the new stuff in my 96GSX with no problems.

Lou

Good to know Lou because my oil tanks are 1/2 full and I am going to order in the spring.

 

[racerxxx]

Thanks Dan, cool that you stick to your regimen. I just can`t justify that price when I can get good/better/equivalent oils for less and convenient for me... man I couldn`t even imagine what they would charge around here as I don`t see a dealer anywhere close by...

RedLine products have their place in the racing world, I used to run their oil in the nissan trans, and all Ford rear diff`s. but that has also changed and using strictly Amsoil now...

man 52xx a gallon, that`s crack robbery...

Yes, $52 is robbery. Could I save money by switching, sure. You can buy it online and have it shipped for free for $45 and save on tax. I like to keep my stuff simple and low stress, I already know it works. I don't like to toss other variables into my equations.

 

[kicker]

I bought 3 cases from these guys last year http://www.jmcamper.com/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=256
A case of 3 is $99.99 plus shipping, it worked out to $41.80 shipped for me.

 

[Dr Honda]

The old oils have been made for a very long time... and I'm sure BRP doesn't care about the old engines. So, where my issues are... I'm sure there was ZERO testing to find if the oils were compatible, or the effects on the RAVE's.

I've been loyal to XPS, and I get a good price local... but since I'm being forced to switch oils... I guess I'll buy the stuff from wal-mart now. (Quicksilver PWC)


Or........


I'll sell both of my 2-strokes next spring, and buy a spark.






OK... not to get too far off subject... but I wonder if the Synth base in the Red-Line oil caused the center seals to leak??? I remember, back in the day... the real synth oils would show you all your weak seals, via oil leaks. I'm not saying it caused the leak... but if it's thinner (on the molecular level) it will get past a warn seal.

 

[MEDOO]

The old oils have been made for a very long time... and I'm sure BRP doesn't care about the old engines. So, where my issues are... I'm sure there was ZERO testing to find if the oils were compatible, or the effects on the RAVE's.

I've been loyal to XPS, and I get a good price local... but since I'm being forced to switch oils... I guess I'll buy the stuff from wal-mart now. (Quicksilver PWC)


Or........


I'll sell both of my 2-strokes next spring, and buy a spark.






OK... not to get too far off subject... but I wonder if the Synth base in the Red-Line oil caused the center seals to leak??? I remember, back in the day... the real synth oils would show you all your weak seals, via oil leaks. I'm not saying it caused the leak... but if it's thinner (on the molecular level) it will get past a warn seal.

Questionable timing with my leak here, eh? Half way through my first gallon of the red stuff I have leaks...

This motor is the older original one, the other motor has been swapped out.

 

[MEDOO]

I THINK it is the large one. But can't go wrong clamping both.

Get the battery on a trickle charge. If over 2 amps disconnect the battery wire.

The humming is likely low voltage and out starters HATE low volts to begin with.

I topped off the brand new battery, cleaned the cable connections and it won't turn over unless both plugs are out, and then it is a slow rotation. I think I cooked my starter. The other starter motor spins over like a top.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I topped off the brand new battery, cleaned the cable connections and it won't turn over unless both plugs are out, and then it is a slow rotation. I think I cooked my starter. The other starter motor spins over like a top.

Have the battery load tested. If it us good then I would agree that your starter is bad.

If so, and if it is an OEM starter, rebuild it. Used OEM is better than new aftermarket.

 

[USAF_Pride]

I'm glad this got back on topic.... I would sure hate to see another "oil" thread! :facepalm: :lol: