statikuz
Active Member
Hey I thought this might be helpful after I collated all this information, mostly from posts by jhjesse, thank you!
I have been working on my '02 RX DI and while I'm taking basically everything apart I have been trying to do some stuff that has been neglected during the previous ~150 hours.
This is just a little guide on how to get the fuel pump out and replace the filters.
1. Open the hood and remove the storage box.
2. Remove the two nuts from the studs holding the vent tube support bracket to the hull/steering assembly and tap the studs through. Remove the vent tube.
3. Remove the glove box. There are two clips holding the glove box itself to the hull, accessible through the hole for the vent tube you just removed. There are also 4 1/4" automotive-style plastic push clips that hold the two “wings” of the glove box to the hull. Those are easily found locally so I just cut them off. You’ll also have to remove two screws holding the black plastic reverse lever handle on to maneuver the glove box wing over it.
4. Remove the fuel supply and return lines from the bracket holding them to the inside of the hull. Disconnect them. You will need a 5/16” fuel/AC disconnecting tool. I bought a cheap set (Lisle 37000) from Advance Auto for $14. They’re about $8 on Amazon. You can also get more expensive/nicer versions. Push the tool all the way into the female side of the connection and the male side will disconnect with a little wiggling. Be prepared for all the fuel in the lines to come out; I wrapped a big wad of paper towels around it when I pulled it apart and that minimized spillage.
5. Remove the nine 8 mm nuts holding the fuel pump assembly to the fuel tank.
6. Take the whole assembly out. Remember there is a float arm connected to the assembly so you’ll have to rotate it to get it out in one piece. The shop manual says to pull it out of the front, but I had to pull it partially out towards the rear (via the glove box) and then back out towards the front. It’s a pain. I already had my engine and exhaust out so I had a little more room to work with, but you'll figure it out.
There are two filters in the fuel pump assembly, a strainer that you’ll see on the bottom of the assembly, and another smaller one inside that requires a bit of disassembly.
The part numbers are Airtex FS220 for the internal strainer and Airtex FS242 for the external one. Some people found these locally but I couldn’t. $8 for the larger one at Summit Racing and $3 for the smaller one. There are also items on eBay that contain both.
This is the external strainer:
The internal strainer is in the bottom of the assembly. You will need to drill out and replace the two 1/8” rivets holding the end cap on. I found a cheesy hand riveter at Walmart for $6.
Here is a video showing disassembly:
When you get the end cap off and the strainer out don’t lose the little steel washer and rubber washer underneath it.
Here are the new filters and the old:
Make sure the thin rubber washer and steel washer are in the baseplate, install the new internal filter, replace the rivets and install the bottom filter.
The inline fuel filter on the line to the fuel rail is not designed to be replaced per se. If you try to find the Seadoo part (which includes hoses and all) it will likely not be available or it will be $100+.
One option is to cut the fuel line as close to the filter fittings as possible and replace it with a standard metal canister fuel filter – the suggested one is Wix 33095 (available locally or $6 from Summit, with some appropriate stainless-steel hose clamps – you can either use the typical worm drive or Oetiker-style crimp-type if you have them and the tool). Now you have a cheap filter you can replace more often.
I have been working on my '02 RX DI and while I'm taking basically everything apart I have been trying to do some stuff that has been neglected during the previous ~150 hours.
This is just a little guide on how to get the fuel pump out and replace the filters.
1. Open the hood and remove the storage box.
2. Remove the two nuts from the studs holding the vent tube support bracket to the hull/steering assembly and tap the studs through. Remove the vent tube.
3. Remove the glove box. There are two clips holding the glove box itself to the hull, accessible through the hole for the vent tube you just removed. There are also 4 1/4" automotive-style plastic push clips that hold the two “wings” of the glove box to the hull. Those are easily found locally so I just cut them off. You’ll also have to remove two screws holding the black plastic reverse lever handle on to maneuver the glove box wing over it.
4. Remove the fuel supply and return lines from the bracket holding them to the inside of the hull. Disconnect them. You will need a 5/16” fuel/AC disconnecting tool. I bought a cheap set (Lisle 37000) from Advance Auto for $14. They’re about $8 on Amazon. You can also get more expensive/nicer versions. Push the tool all the way into the female side of the connection and the male side will disconnect with a little wiggling. Be prepared for all the fuel in the lines to come out; I wrapped a big wad of paper towels around it when I pulled it apart and that minimized spillage.
5. Remove the nine 8 mm nuts holding the fuel pump assembly to the fuel tank.
6. Take the whole assembly out. Remember there is a float arm connected to the assembly so you’ll have to rotate it to get it out in one piece. The shop manual says to pull it out of the front, but I had to pull it partially out towards the rear (via the glove box) and then back out towards the front. It’s a pain. I already had my engine and exhaust out so I had a little more room to work with, but you'll figure it out.
There are two filters in the fuel pump assembly, a strainer that you’ll see on the bottom of the assembly, and another smaller one inside that requires a bit of disassembly.
The part numbers are Airtex FS220 for the internal strainer and Airtex FS242 for the external one. Some people found these locally but I couldn’t. $8 for the larger one at Summit Racing and $3 for the smaller one. There are also items on eBay that contain both.
This is the external strainer:
The internal strainer is in the bottom of the assembly. You will need to drill out and replace the two 1/8” rivets holding the end cap on. I found a cheesy hand riveter at Walmart for $6.
Here is a video showing disassembly:
When you get the end cap off and the strainer out don’t lose the little steel washer and rubber washer underneath it.
Here are the new filters and the old:
Make sure the thin rubber washer and steel washer are in the baseplate, install the new internal filter, replace the rivets and install the bottom filter.
The inline fuel filter on the line to the fuel rail is not designed to be replaced per se. If you try to find the Seadoo part (which includes hoses and all) it will likely not be available or it will be $100+.
One option is to cut the fuel line as close to the filter fittings as possible and replace it with a standard metal canister fuel filter – the suggested one is Wix 33095 (available locally or $6 from Summit, with some appropriate stainless-steel hose clamps – you can either use the typical worm drive or Oetiker-style crimp-type if you have them and the tool). Now you have a cheap filter you can replace more often.
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