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How to service Rave Valve---Pictorial---

rckstr said:
Thanks Lou. I got her back together. I have moved on to the impeller pump oil. Got it all cleaned up and ready for new oil. What weight should I use? I have 75w-90 synthetic. Will that be sufficient?
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That's good.

Lou
 
rckstr said:
Thanks Lou. I got her back together. I have moved on to the impeller pump oil. Got it all cleaned up and ready for new oil. What weight should I use? I have 75w-90 synthetic. Will that be sufficient?
Click to expand...

That is exactly what it takes. Just over 2 oz per cone.
 
Awesome Write up.
Quick question...
I'm rebuilding a 787 for my challenger using a 787 outa gtx.
I noticed that the rave valves (guillotines) are different. The challenger has 2 groves in it like the one in his pic above.
But the gtx does not have grooves.
Why the difference and which is better?

Thanks
 
The rave valves with the grooves are just the new style, they're interchangeable.

Lou
 
Ok thanks... I pulled the flywheel today..had to put the heat to it.. even with the puller. I've pulled other before and never had to heat. Now the crank seems a little stiff to rotate.. hope I didn't booger anything up.

And I'm sure there are post on the cranks and the balancer and worm gear. But is there any general rule (trick) on making sure that when I pull the crank that I get it lined up with the balancer and the worm gear during reassembly?
 
ravedif.jpg
Here is the different raves I was talking about lou. I also noticed that the housing is different too. The rave on right is from the challenger then one on the left from a gtx. both 787 and both 1997.
Well I was tryin to paste a pic.. obviously im not as computer smart as I thought I was. LOL
 
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Doing my end-of-season RAVE cleaning I noticed on one of the valves that the "angled" portion's surface was pitted a bit and
the surface metal was gone in a few areas (angled portion). The valve was not that clean considering that I had done them about 5 hours before (late season purchase) but I'm attributing some of that to whatever oil was/is still being used (the tank was full when I got the
machine). I'm just wondering if that additional friction on the angled portion would be an issue and if I should replace the valve?
 
Steenkamp said:
Nice info..will love to use it whenever i encounter such prob..
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Servicing rave valves is not a problem, it's a maintenance item and depending on how much you ride should be performed on a regular basis, at least once a year.

Lou
 
great thread!

I just got a new to me 98 speedster and man are the RAVEs gunked! I do not think they have ever been cleaned... all 4 are in poor shape with an 1/8 of gunk in some places.

I completely drained the old oil and switched over the amsoil intercepter with new oil filters and it already smokes way less and seems to be much happier. I think the PO might have been using a cheap oil and did very little to zero maintenance b/c it came with autolite truck plugs gapped at .040!!

It is running much smoother and quieter with new plugs, oil and clean raves. Thanks seedooforum!
 
i have a question im new to this so i need some help i have pulled off my rave valves and cleaned them on a 98 gtx limited my question is what is the easy way to assemble the spring back on that hold the bellows to the bottom and top


thanks
sheffs
 
Rampage awesome job. We printed out your thread and took care of an issue we had. Thank you.
Thanks to all others for the extra advice.
This forum is great.:thumbsup:
 
Paul Rock said:
Rampage awesome job. We printed out your thread and took care of an issue we had. Thank you.
Thanks to all others for the extra advice.
This forum is great.:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Glad I could help!! :) Also glad to see this thread still alive. Just to add to the thread.. The type of oil you use will greatly affect how gunky your Rave valves will get.
 
Rampage said:
Glad I could help!! :) Also glad to see this thread still alive. Just to add to the thread.. The type of oil you use will greatly affect how gunky your Rave valves will get.
Click to expand...

We use only the best available. Learned that from all you who impart your wisdom on us rookies. I almost look like I know what I am doing when I have my head buried in the engine compartment, I even sound like I know what I am talking about.

Thanks again.
 
seadoosnipe said:
You gotta have the spring for the top cap of the bellows but where the bellows connects to the base housing of the RAVE, I use the little tie wraps. They fit the groove well and I've never had a problem with them; except one time I used one that was too big and it caused a hole to be rubbed in the rubber. That's when I came up with the idea of knocking off that top piece of the knuckle of the tie wrap.

At my "Advanced" auto parts store, they have a table with a bunch of low cost stuff on it. The tie wraps are in a round container with a lot of different size and colors, all for $5 bucks.......
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I not entirely getting it .. what part of the tie wrap are you smoothing down? "Top piece of the knuckle" has me confused, believe it or not. Maybe a picture would help. I know this is an old topic, but I am still new to this RAVE stuff.
 
I have a 96 xp and after I took the cap off, I could not get the center nut ( plastic ) to break free so I could remove the bottom of the top cap off first, before I pulled the valve out. I cant get the front valve out with the cap still on because the exhaust manifold and tune pipe is in the way. Can any one tell me what I can do, so I don't have to pull the exhaust and still get the front valve clean?
Thanks

Ok I was trying to hold what looks like a spool right below the plastic nut while I broke the nut free, and nothing would move. IT's all 1 piece, if you can get the spool to turn, you can unscrew the whole thing off.
 
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There hasn't been mention of gaskets. Im assuming its ok to make the gaskets from the appropriate gasket stock vs ordering the oem gasket?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
 
SDSeadooer said:
Can anyone tell me when to know that your rave valve needs adjusting and how to do it?
Click to expand...

Hi and welcome to the SeaDoo forum.

You would have much more success in getting your questions answered in either the meet and greet section or the 2-stroke PWC section. The how-to section is really an informational section and members rarely check it. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

Lou
 
I've ran into an issue I can't seem to find an answer to in regards to removing the rave valve that is located directly under the exhaust portion on the engine that you have to dissemble before being able to remove it to clean. I've read the process which includes removing the red top cap and then using a 10mm take off the plastic nut which will allow you to slide the valve out... this is where I am having an issue. The plastic 10mm nut does not want to loosen or come off. I've even used pliers to attempt to loosen it up however it begins stripping the plastic nut so I stop. What would you guys suggest to try and get this off so I can clean this valve? My alternative is to begin taking the carbs off and removing the exhaust part of the motor to be able to get this thing out by removing the allen bolts to slide the whole thing out together however this would be a big project and take a lot more time.
 
Thanks everyone who contributed to this post. I had no clue about RAVE valves until I read this post.
I am quite certain that my RAVE valves on my '97 GTX had never been cleaned until I cleaned them a week ago Sept '22 after reading this article. I am now getting 7000 rpm & around 53 mph after cleaning the RAVEs, changing fuel lines, oil lines, carburetors, fuel filter, fuel selector, clipping 1/4" off plug wires, and replacing the spark plugs. Rampage, seadoosnipe, bigJake, & LouDoo (fighting "flying Illini" coach Henson haircut?) are rockstars. LOL
 
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