How to flush an XP????

[campinitos]

Please help...

I've just bought a Sea-Doo after wanting one since I was a little kid, and in every attempt to look after it properly I want to ensure I follow all the maintenance procedures....

So, (this may sound ridiculous to most) but how do I flush it out? I know what to do roughly, but I'm just a little suspicious of what to connect the hose to, and do I need any special attachments?

The model is a Sea-Doo XP 96 I think.

Any help would be massively appreciated!

 

[JJinSC]

I am not sure about the 96, but the 97 xp has the hose hookup just to the left of the main drive nozzle in the back. Upper left hand side of the nozzle housing.

Remember to do things in this order to prevent water from being forced into the engine.

1) Hook hose to flush connector, but do not turn on water yet.
2) Crank engine.
3) Within a few seconds of engine crank, turn on water.
4) Let run and flush for 5 minutes.
5) Turn off water first.
6) Turn off engine.

 

[scooper77515]

He is right. But you need a hose from the dealer that will set you back about $6, if you don't have it already. It is usally green, about 18" long, and has a hose fitting on one end, and a spring-loaded snap on the other end.

Get that chunk of hose, put it on the garden hose, and turn the water on so it is coming out but not SHOOTING out. You want a nice low flow out of the hose.

Take a pair of vice grips and find that hose coming out of the top of the back of the engine, and you will see a T-fitting. Usually, there is a red rubber cap on top of it, but it may not be there after 15 years...Vice grips go BEHIND the T fitting to crimp off the water and make it go INTO the engine and not straight out the back without cooling and flushing the engine.

Start the engine up , and as soon as it is running on it's own (no choke) hook that running hose up. It will snap on to the top of that T. Run it for no more than 5 minutes, and make sure water is coming out the pee-hole in the back of the ski. If it isn't coming out, turn the water up a little, or if it still doesn't come out after a minute or so, you have another problem.

Let it run 5 minutes, and cut the water off. Run the engine another 10 seconds or so to blow out the extra water, and shut it down.

 

[campinitos]

thanks guys
took it out on the lake yesterday and it broke down on me, gutted!

Not 100% sure what's wrong yet, fella at the centre said it didn't look like there was any major problems, but just need to charge up battery and re-new the choke cable.

Are these fairly easy to come by and re-fit?

 

[timmyboy76]

toss the choke cable, and install primer kit. Find them on ebay. Make sure, you take battery out of ski, before charg'n. While its "down", not bad idea, to take carbs out and apart. Go thru them, clean internals of it, out. Replace the grey fuel lines if in there, and if there is, then remove fuel selector to clean, and inline filter as well. Those lines make a mess, everywhere, inside the "flow of gas"

 

[scooper77515]

I agree on the primer kit. And just replace the fuel selector switch if it is too gunky or corroded. Solved alot of my stalling problems with just a new switch.

Spent months thinking I had an air leak or sucking air from my baffle when it was the fuel selector switch all along.

 

[campinitos]

Cheers guys

Ok so I've found a primer kit but there are single, dual and triple options???

Which one is best to use? Are they fairly easy for an utter novice like me to fit?

I guess I remove the choke cable entirely including the rod which is attached to the carbs, and replace the button on the dash with the primer one? Then do I tee into the main fuel supply or the reserve? I'm hoping these kits come with fitting instructions:ack:

Sorry for so many questions, all very new to me! Thanks for all the help so far tho:hurray:

 

[campinitos]

Should add that the engine had overgone a rebuild before I bought it and the carbs are exposed (there is no air filter). Is this normal? Will this affect anything?

Just uploaded a couple of pics