• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

How To: Changing Your Wear Ring

mmmmmm the HF page is no longer available. or is it my browser that's acting up?

I assume it was a rotary cutting tool of some sort?????


As Lou as said before we need to get HF as an advertiser or a sponsor.
 
Ahhhhh yes, I know that tool "well" My doc used one to cut off my cast last year. It hit my skin and didn't do a thing to it...but cut thru the cast real good.
 
Well I finished my wear ring! I think I may of had things a little too tight. I went back and took it apart and reapplied loctite and assembled with no problems. Great info on this thread thanks a LOT!!!
 
what silicone should I use ofr sealing the pump to the hull /upper left side ot the pump/

I know it is loctite 598 ultra black as per manual but If I cant find it around what else I can use?
 
Awesome writeup. Our 95 GTX is acting up but I can't decide if it's a fuel problem or wear ring. If you throw your thumb to full throttle from sitting still it wants to bog, but if you let off the throttle a little bit it goes right on no problem. After that it gets to top speed no problem. We had the carbs rebuilt so I'm thinking wear ring. Thoughts?
 
make sure that the rubber bumper is in the end of the drive shaft, and not down in the impeller
Click to expand...

What is that rubber bumper and where is it located?

Wen I removed the pump there was nothing left on the drive shaft
 
it is 95 GTX

It is there - with the grease on the shaft and rubber bumper it looks more than part ot the shaft to me :blush: /i did not clean the shaft end yet/

Lou, you sre like my angel - if I have question you always answer it in next 5 mins - THANK YOU!!!
 
Another problem - the wear ring is all the way in but the impeller can't get in :(

any ideas hot to do it?

Thanks

Edit: it looks like the pump housing has different # 271 000 249 than the one for rhis model in the service manual and most likely this tight fit caused the damage of the old wear ring - the inner plastic shell was stripped out.

I an stuck very bad in the middle ov nowhere and neer help :(

The inner diameter of the wear ring in the housing is 139.33 mm

Do I need new impeler and if yes which one exactly

Thank you
 
Last edited by a moderator:
LouDoo said:
I don't think it's the impeller, did you use an OEM wear ring?

Lou
Click to expand...

yes, purchased from parkeryamaha.com this http://www.parkeryamaha.com/seadoowearring271000290.aspx as per manual the part # is 271 000 290

Edit: It turned out that due to the tight fit it has to be centered very good in order to slide in. It is in now and it is screwed to the shaft in the pump.

Does it have to spin free or it has to have some resistance to spin?

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Is there any way to pull the impeller without the tool im going out of town and dont have time to wait for the tool to be shipped.
 
I was noticing on line that the wear ring kit is pretty expensive. It looks like in the pricing that it includes the entire housing. Is this the case? Also, In my case a piece of the intake grate broke and went through the impeller somehow and damaged the Stator. How important is it for the Stator to be in smooth condition?
 
hey guys i little trick i use to replace wear ring. have done this many times with noo issues. put the pump in freezer for 15 min as well as new ring. the old ring should slid right out and the new one right in. no cutting required.
 
Do I win for the best wear ring failure?




64.jpg

I had no clue these things were designed to wear out LOL. Yes, I'm still new lol. I freaked out thinking I had to replace the entire pump housing....*shudders*.

This is me trying to needle-nose pliers it out first few times hehe. Finally it gave way.

65.jpg

66.jpg


seadoosnipe said:
Depending on your model, between 35-60 psi, and upwards of 90, depending on who you ask....I usually just tighten mine up with red loctite. Shaft spins opposite of threads, so it won't back off. Just make sure if your doing the older, 2 stroke pumps, you don't pin the thrust washer under the shaft. There is a lip on the shaft that can catch that washer. When you tighten the shaft, before you put your nose cone on, push the shaft in and out against the pump. There should be about 1/4" of play. It should also spin freely. If its tight and the impeller isn't hitting the ring, check your thrust washer...
Click to expand...
Thanks for this...I'm a blatant DIY n00b...and even worse mechanic...but I think I can handle this. I'm really keen to confidnetly know how tight to tighten things, and where to put grease before calling it a successful repair.

67.jpg

If you have a look...I think I still have a cm or less of the wear ring remaining? So I just remove that somehow, and I'm good to install new? Assuming I check the impeller and verify the bottom fin isn't bent and scraping? I think it is. It may just be brushing the frayed wear ring right now (I"M HOPING)..and not ACTUALLy bent out of wack and touching the edge.

viper0173 said:
hey guys i little trick i use to replace wear ring. have done this many times with noo issues. put the pump in freezer for 15 min as well as new ring. the old ring should slid right out and the new one right in. no cutting required.
Click to expand...

assuming wifey doesn't mind the lingering smell of spilled oil or whatever in the freezer afterwards hehe.

Wear Ring (I haven't bought a new one yet so don't now) is supposed to be quite firm yes? So this wear ring (or what's left) being as malleable as can be must mean it was never changed? ever? lol? Doh. Should I proactively change both then while I'm at it? I can't find aftermarket, and OEM is $60 here...I don't want to wait for an Ebay order so I can get them for $30 or $40 :(.
 
Dr Honda said:
...The only special tool you will need is an impeller tool. You can get them on eBay for as little as $15 shipped, or from the site sponsor for a reasonable price. (and it supports this board)...
Click to expand...
I was quoted $90CDN for an original one from one of two local Seadoo dealerships in the area. Blew my mind.

I found LOTS from your price to in fact the same $99 price tag on Ebay??? !!!! wow.

One question: I never found one listing compatibilty with my 99 Speedster. Are they universal? I want a particularly long one because I don't want to end up with a short grip. I like to be elbow deep if you catch my drift :).

Anyway, I'm also wondering about just finding an old drive shaft, and elbowing it out.

The guy I went to today had welded a socket piece to the end of a drive shaft which he then just connected a socket wrench to. Nifty. I-was-jealous.

I'll check the site sponsor. Anybody know if they're long and more importantly how much shipping is to Ottawa, Canada? Only the bigger sellers tend to have reasonable rates north of the border, so at times it's a little pricey.

Anybody ever see these in a mechanics toolchest? Would Napa or Princess Auto carry a splined socket bit?
 
Dr Honda said:
..... you take it to a dealer where they say... "You need an impeller, and a pump rebuild. So, Mr Smith... please bend over as we shove this $1000 repair bill up your A-- ! "
Click to expand...
lawl. I just read that one guy who was quoted $2000 in Toronto!!!!!!!!!!!! wow.

In all fairness though, last year, I had my pump shaft semi fuse to the jet pump, so a lot of labour involved with getting it out, salvaging this and that, and I still came out to $900....and yes......no lube was applied.
....
242.jpg
....
Click to expand...
Methinks the boat didn't have this to begin with. I didn't see it when I took it out.

Is this really necessary? Precautionary? For $8 I'm not skimpin' out but just curious.
 
LouDoo said:
....The tool worked great, it went through the old wear ring like (as they say in NY) butter. I think I bought the tool when in was on sale for less than $20.00. Anyway it's much easier and safer than the saw zall....
http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-68861.html\

Lou
Click to expand...
http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-68861.html

That's the working link. The extra slash you added at the end kills the link.

I was looking at something like this actually at Canadian Tire up here (~$50), but wondering which blade you used? The circular one needs a lot of clearance to get down there as it's...a circule lol. Unless you cut all of one half of it away to make it narrower?
 
Just a heads up to anyone having problems removing the wear ring.
I was having a beast of a problem with mine...tried freezing etc.

Ended up noticing 4 bolts installed that bolted thru the pump housing and into the wear ring.
Undid those and the old wear ring slipped right out.
I'm not sure if a previous tech and modded this or not I have an 04 4-tec Sportster
I've had it serviced at 2 sea doo dealers. Both of which are now out of business...
 
jombie said:
...Ended up noticing 4 bolts installed that bolted thru the pump housing and into the wear ring.
...
Click to expand...

HUH? What bolts??? The mounting bolts for the boot., don't have anything to do with the wear ring area...were these MacGyver'ish bolts...functional somehow? That's just weird.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Jobondur
Wear Ring Good or No? Rebuild Jet Pump???
Replies
2
Views
246
BrianMoore
B
PredatorVI
Impeller catches on wear ring where retaining screws come through
Replies
1
Views
156
mkov608
mkov608
K
How do I fix this?
Replies
10
Views
201
Grim
Grim
mejim707
Impeller rubbing new OEM Sea-Doo wear ring
Replies
4
Views
573
mejim707
mejim707
S
1995 gtx whining after new wear ring
Replies
12
Views
547
Venturian1
V
Back
Top