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How does this rubber boot work?
- Thread starter ProfitOfDoom
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Ok, when I get off work herein an hour I'll see if greasing the bearings would solve my problem. I do think it is a bigger problem then that, it sounds so simple =P But I am hopeful and will give it a try. Also Lou, can I drive my ski without the purple boot I circled in the picture? Orwould I have to replace that before I take it out??
You probably couldn't ride it for long, that boot holds the grease for the bearing on the flywheel, without the boot the grease won't last long.
I hate to say this but you will need to pull the pump, pull the drive shaft, replace the front boot, and replace the rear boot and bearing.
I don't have this setup on my ski and have no practical experience.
DOE'S ANYONE ELSE HAVE INPUT ON THIS????
LOU
I hate to say this but you will need to pull the pump, pull the drive shaft, replace the front boot, and replace the rear boot and bearing.
I don't have this setup on my ski and have no practical experience.
DOE'S ANYONE ELSE HAVE INPUT ON THIS????
LOU
Ok, I definitely found out why my ski has cavitation. I found out that the female splines in the pto flywheel are either stripped, or the male splines on the drive-shaft are stripped. I got a quote on both the drive-shaft and pto and bought them for $150 for both today, but I got a $400 quote on just the labor itself!! Is that reasonable? How hard would it be to get the pto flywheel and drive shaft out and replace them myself?
luckysaturn13
New Member
not hard dl the shop manuel...
2-3 hrs.
The job won't take more than 2-3 hours.
You need to remove the steering nozzle and reverse gate, remove the pump, pull the drive shaft, thats about it.
A couple of things you need to remember, when you reassemble the pump back on the ski, be sure to clean off the old sealant and apply new marine grade silicone sealant on anything that protrudes through the hull. There are 3, one for the main inlet hose, 2 syphon pumps.
Also while you have everything you might want to replace the wear ring. Clearance between the wear ring and impeller is .040" you can check it with a feeler guage.
Lou
The job won't take more than 2-3 hours.
You need to remove the steering nozzle and reverse gate, remove the pump, pull the drive shaft, thats about it.
A couple of things you need to remember, when you reassemble the pump back on the ski, be sure to clean off the old sealant and apply new marine grade silicone sealant on anything that protrudes through the hull. There are 3, one for the main inlet hose, 2 syphon pumps.
Also while you have everything you might want to replace the wear ring. Clearance between the wear ring and impeller is .040" you can check it with a feeler guage.
Lou
I did most of the work last night. I removed the pump, and drive shaft. Only thing I couldn't get off was the pto flywheel. I used the rope down the cylinder trick, and started cranking counter clockwise with a pipe wrench and couldn't get it off. =( I think I'm just going to go buy the new pto and driveshaft and just pay to have them take off the old pto. Would you guys recommend me putting everything else back together to save some $$?
The piece I circled in black will not come off. I took off the pump, removed the drive shaft, and I was told I could remove the rear spark plug and shove rope down there to keep the cylinder from moving and just turn it counterclockwise with a pipe wrench. It will not budge.
Keep pulling the pipe wrench, but also you may want to make some metal bracket to fit the screw where the cover goes over the flywheel so you can work the pipe wrench stronger without ripping out motor mounts, the cable ties work fine on the pto grease boot but on the earlier hulls with the needle bearing sleeve you need hose clamps that can be tightened and watch the direction of rotation then put the clamps on in such a way if the bearing fails the clamps strap excess will not damage the hull, also when you put this together leave the carrier clamp looser than the hull sleeve - the reason is when the bearing fails the rubber will not spin and melt the hull nose, grease the carrier once a month - the pto once a season till the rubber bulges just enough to see it bulge, if you over grease it you will rupture the boot and start over again.
The pto flywheel needs to be removed because that is also stripped. I stripped both the drive shaft and pto. Don't ask me how it happened, I have no clue =P But I did get the drive shaft out I just need to get the pto off.
O.K., I understand. The manual shows using the same tool as the impeller removal too. It shows using a special tool to hold the flywheel while removing the flywheel. Since the flywheel is trash anyway I would just use a pair of vice grips with the chain, or a big "C" clamp to hold the flywheel while you remove it. Then use the impeller removal tool and a big wrench.
Lou
Lou
Wrong Info.
Hi,
The information was not all correct, the crank will have to remain stationary, and use the impeller removal tool to loosen the pto flywheel.
The manual says: "on type 787 engines, lock the flywheel by inserting the special tool part no. 29500134 into the ring gear in place of the starter". Sounds like a real pain.
I don't really know what else to tell you except you need to find a way to hold the crank stationary, and the rope method doesn't seem to be working.
Lou
Hi,
The information was not all correct, the crank will have to remain stationary, and use the impeller removal tool to loosen the pto flywheel.
The manual says: "on type 787 engines, lock the flywheel by inserting the special tool part no. 29500134 into the ring gear in place of the starter". Sounds like a real pain.
I don't really know what else to tell you except you need to find a way to hold the crank stationary, and the rope method doesn't seem to be working.
Lou
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