How do I fix this? *Gestures with arms open wide*, Picture Orgasm.

[100guard]

98 Speedster - Wear Ring tore off like a tire tread. Pics Galore

I'm not sure this had anything to do with low oil, hence a new thread is merited....although-whatdoIknow?

I enjoy the write-up of his DIY (step 1 exploration), so forgive my being verbose. You can skip and just go to the pictures .

Anyhoo..I'm NOT a DIY'er...by any means...but this house we bought came with a CRAP load of construction eqpt., socket wrenches (8 of them), and 6" extensions., 4" extensions, lol...so as soon as I started looking at the back of my boat I got this urge to go nuts.

I inspected the whole contraption, and realized...as long as I can take off the four bolts on each assembly, the whole thing can be taken off in one piece without kicking something out of whack. Am I correct in assuming that so long as I don't fiddle with any alignment related threadings, it should go back on fine? Anyway, I did it! I pulled it all off. SO HAPPY!! The bottom bolts., no problem..but the top, because of limited space, I piggy backed my 5" socket extension on the 3" one (approx lengths, is what I always say hehe) and bang., did the top four.

Right one is the tricky one as it has the connections to the drive & steering bars that are left suspended.

For me that's saying something...a LOT! I impressed myself. So nice to really take my mind off the days events by doing this project.

Something about socket wrenches clicking...so visceral and energizing .

I got tripped up for a second as I realized the steering and drive bar needed to be detached or the whole thing wouldn't come off. Thankfully I had literally 6-8 socket wrenches (that's not counting my three new ones of my own set) so I could keep all the necessary sizes on each dedicated one so I knew which it was for LOL. I know have a dedicated 'Seadoo' bin where I'm keeping all these spare sizes in for the (God forbid!) next time. Anyway, took off the drive screw and bolt., and the steering, and eased the contraption down. What do I call this whole thing? I was a little paranoid so I didn't want ANY bolt to slip out, lest I lose a spacer or washer, but there really isn't anything is there? Just the white washer below, and one lone bolt. Done deal. The NUT STAYS where it is housed, and that's so easy.

Side Question. I'm always holding the steering wheel at like 2 o'clock. Can I adjust this so the wheel is neutral? or is that Cavitation related?


So anyway...I put it away., then I'm looking...btw, what is this wire? It seems like it's seated in that little spinnery wheel there (what the heck is that thing anyway???. Can I zap strap it somewhere? I don't like seeing it flip flopping.

(BTW What started this was a low fuel gauge RedEyeofDeath (REOD) which I now know will never relate to the cone...only the Injection pump tank sensor or actual level) So I look at the cones to compare to see if there are any obvious spaces or cracks like I experienced last year with the one...but they look good. Have a look.


As I'm looking, I am shocked...to see this...and this...and these??? wow!!



Now I'm wondering if I can take off THIS Assembly (what's this called?) off myself. I'm wondering is there a special lock I need to release from the inside of the boat? Does it get significantly more challenging from here? I then go rummaging through the previous owners misc bucket..and voila! Find a 21mm (or was it 22?) short socket that just barely grabs the four bolts., I take em off. A little nudge and I have it!

I take it off and see this. I'm blown away!! I grab my needle nose pliars and try to pull it out hehe...little stubborn.


I'm partially wondering if I managed to suck in a perfectly shaped piece of plastic...or if somehow...while going the 5kms for the bit I was (after the 40min return trek and 30min stop when we swam around while closer to shore) at...the same painful 5kms/hr LOL) managed to cause the impeller to grow in size? and manage to SHEAR off that piece of plastic? Does this happen? Has anybody else had it happen? Or did the impeller shift? bend down enough to catch that edge and slice it?

Anyway, after all this fun, I fail to find a socket small enough to take out the 3 screws on the cone (which at this point, I'm still thinking is the culprit {Could I have left the cone on to fix this}?) from the owners stash, I go grab MY set, and magically it has it...yippee. So I take it out, removed the three and out flows this stinky burnt oil. Does this oil look good? It seems to be a heterogenous mixture. Man does it stink something FIERCE. I had done this in the house...DIDN'T drop anywhere...JUST the smell....lingered in the house for TWO HOURS!!!! We came back and the house WREAKED LOL. Boy did I get an earful haha. I don't find it that bad...just strong.



This was in the connection between the shaft and the female end of the impeller...not really greasy...rust and water? Should this greased (it was) when put back?

So....sitrep:
I can turn the impeller fine...but it is rubbing on the inner housing there as you can see. How the HECK does this happen? The shaft (the bar that goes to the engine?) grooves feel okay (to a layman such as I), the female end opposite the impeller also feels fine (should I grease or lube these when putting back together?). Reminder., the engine didn't seize., nothing sucked in...just combined (as RFoster130 believes I just got the REOD cuz the sensor came on early) with THAT...something shifted and the impeller suddenly grazed the interior housing and sliced & diced that up.


Having looked at the oil, did it have anything to do with it? or was the jet pump oil intact and operational?

Does this plug look good? These where new cones, so I'm wondering if it should be so offset? I need to test if this is really as open as it looks. SHouldn't it sit snugly in, and properly? Not askew as it is?


Anyway...what's my next step??? Last time I think I remember the shop had a male shaft to stick in the impeller to lock..and then you unscrew the ROD end like I have my adjustible wrench pictured? I'd have to take out the impeller, file down that frayed plastic...and I'm wondering,....on a cheap mans budget...can I still use this Assembly?

I don't understand what happened. Firstly...did I really suck in that plastic? Or did it really get cut away from the interior of that cylinder???? So what? That plastic is actually SEPARATE from the outer shell? So...the impeller CUT it at the bottom there? Then as it got loose, it got twisted (not hard to tease out) in there???


btw...did I mention I'm unemployed? WTF.

So: What I'm interested to know is...WTF happened? What caused it? What's my next step..if that's still a DIY, or if I can just give this to someone to fix, grind the impeller fin to clean it up as well as file/clean the interior of that Assembly which is now a little roomier (IE would resultin less propulsion I'd imagine?).

Is this called a catastrophic failure? I'd say no cuz really all I need is a new assembly. Rod/shaft/engine/impeller still good. Nowhere near the $7/$800 I spent last year on my fiasco LOL. I'd say it's a curious failure? lol?

 

[Stevego]

It looks like your wear ring got sliced by the impeller. Something must have bent one of the impeller blades causing it to slice into the wear ring. Or something got caught in there causing the wear ring to shear. Replace the wear ring, check impeller blades for damage and clearance. Also replace the pump oil and check the bearings. If rusted replace them.

 

[LouDoo]

If you haven't already done so download a service manual for your boat.

Here's a thread which goes into detail about replacing a wear ring.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?30720-How-To-Changing-Your-Wear-Ring

Lou

 

[Spimothy Leary]

i need 10 minutes before i comment, i'm on websters looking up a few words.

Got stuck on Verbose and Visceral and couldn't concentrate after that.

please bear with me and my community college education.

 

[LouDoo]

Hey Tim,

Do you think Canada is a "Blue State".

Lou

 

[RFoster130]

You are making this much worse than it really is. That's just a shredded wear ring. Most likely you had something stuck in there and it ate it and spit it out. You need to read up on the service manual. Also the thread here on how to change your wear ring would help a lot. In order for you to understand and us to help you, you need to learn some basic terms.

That whole black assembly looking thing you unbolted, is what we refer to as the jet pump. The engine turns the driveshaft, the shaft enters the pump, where it turns the impeller, the thing that looks like a fan blade. Water is sucked up from the intake on the bottom of the boat and pulled through the pump by the impeller. Then it is forced out the back through the nozzle. This all creates thrust, moving the watercraft. The impeller has to fit very tightly in that assembly. It has a nylon, plastic type sleeve that goes around it. This sleeve type thing is called the wear ring. It is designed to do exactly what the name implies, wear. When you suck up rocks, sticks and debris, it makes grooves and stuff in that ring instead of destroying the metal impeller.

It's really no big deal to fix all this. An hour and $75 will do it. Read up on my suggestions. You need an impeller tool and basic tools.

That wires you have in the pic goes to the speed sensor, that makes your speedometer work. Mine doesn't hang that low, the plastic nut can be loosened and you can pull the wire in some from the inside.

 

[100guard]

...Something must have bent one of the impeller blades causing it to slice into the wear ring. Or something got caught in there causing the wear ring to shear. Replace the wear ring, check impeller blades for damage and clearance. Also replace the pump oil and check the bearings. If rusted replace them.

Okay! So, assuming there wasn't a magical shift in position of the impeller., then as has been suggested, something got sucked in, and wedged (acting as the cutter) of the wear ring...OR actually bent the fin which would now need to be remanufactured to proper posn?

Where are the bearings?

.....service manual ...
Here's a thread...
Lou

Thanks for the thread. Quickly looked at it and for the absolute layman such as I, I think it's doable absolutely! .

...Verbose and Visceral ....

ouch. Sorry.

verbose- think verbal diaorrhea
visceral - think Tim the Toolman Taylor and the grunting, and how it gets the primate 'man juices' flowing hehe. Love that guy.
(Actually, you got me doubting myself so I looked it up...I'm actually spot on lol)

characterized by or dealing with coarse or base emotions; earthy; crude: a visceral literary style.

You are making this much worse than it really is. That's just a shredded wear ring....

Don't forget-Put it into perspective..for a still :willy_nilly:n0ob:willy_nilly: Seadoo owner...ANYthing is major..lol. I didn't even realize this wear ring was interchangeable. I thought I'd have to shell out $300 for a whole new jet pump. I called and I can get an aftermarket one for $40CDN (except then ship it 90mins to me $14 courier no problem). Impeller tool, yes saw that in the thread. I'm wondering if a 10-14mm torx socket would work just as well...though I don't think mine are long enough..will check momentarily. All you need is something with matching splines to fit in the impeller female end right? Then take apart?

[That whole black assembly looking thing you unbolted, is what we refer to as the jet pump. The engine turns the driveshaft, the shaft enters the pump, where it turns the impeller, the thing that looks like a fan blade. Water is sucked up from the intake on the bottom of the boat and pulled through the pump by the impeller. Then it is forced out the back through the nozzle. This all creates thrust, moving the watercraft. The impeller has to fit very tightly in that assembly. It has a nylon, plastic type sleeve that goes around it. This sleeve type thing is called the wear ring. It is designed to do exactly what the name implies, wear. When you suck up rocks, sticks and debris, it makes grooves and stuff in that ring instead of destroying the metal impeller.

It's really no big deal to fix all this. An hour and $75 will do it. Read up on my suggestions. You need an impeller tool and basic tools.

That wires you have in the pic goes to the speed sensor, that makes your speedometer work. Mine doesn't hang that low, the plastic nut can be loosened and you can pull the wire in some from the inside.

You're awesome! Thank you for being easy on me. In the aftermath of my friends funeral and wifes birthday (which wasn't much of a b day for her (day before)) I wasn't in the mood to look up all the actual names at that moment. Just really needed the project to get my mind off things.

Ahhhh....so THAT'S the speedometer.I was wondering what that spinner was hehe. I thought it was to power some small fan (to Papa Smurfs desk fan?) or something on the inside Doh! I will do as directed and pull thru.

I think I'm going to fill the Injection oil now and power plug in the DESS to see if the REOD disappears LOL.

Out of curiosity, so how did the condition of the oil look? We only put 8hours on it I think...either that or 20hrs plus a winter season. We had it changed last season towards the end so it wasn't done again when we winterized.

 

[Stevego]

If a fin is bent or rough on the edge take a grinder or file to it and smooth it out. Dont complicate it, it is not that accurate.

 

[100guard]

...Dont complicate it, it is not that accurate.

Good to know.

Thank you!

I put an add up looking for a wear ring. If nobody has one, I'll go buy the oem one for $60 . I am giddy to get this done, and actually (with your support) bring to a success my first EVER DIY on the boat .

Well...I did drill 3 holes in the shield cuz the bracket snapped due to son leaving it standing and the wind pushed too hard...hehe..but I don't consider that anything to be proud of LOL.

Just gotta see if the place also has this neoprene seal for the pump shoe, cuz no point in rushing to buy the one thing, if I end up having to order the other, I may as well then just accept a week or two week dry period and order it all from cheap sources.

My main concern is over-tightening...and not putting loctite where needed. I read the thread, didn't mention anything, unless it wasn't intending to repeat what is mentioned in the svc manual. I haven't got that yet.

 

[RFoster130]

You can join here as a premium member for 1 month and then download your manual. Then you can cancel the premium membership. Its cheaper than buying it anywhere, and the few bucks helps support the site.

 

[LouDoo]

I figured this might be a good place to bring this up. Has anyone used one of these, I had an answer on another thread and it was positive. I like to keep a spare to avoid down time and I was thinking about ordering one. It's the same ring the 4-tek's use. And the price is right.

http://www.shopsbt.com/jet-ski-wear-rings/78-101-02.html

Also, OEM's are a little hard to find right now, maybe it's because of the time of the year. I replaced one about a week ago, and I had to get a WSM from Atlantic Jet Sports, they usually have the OEM. The ring fit fine, I guess time will tell.

Lou

 

[100guard]

No hits on kijijji in Ottawa . Maybe someone tonight will respond.

Later today I remembered a friend of a friend who does small engine repair and Seadoo work, so I called him up and he said yep he can order the WR for $~30'ish.

Nice guy., Took a couple bangs to start the WR moving, but the tire tread shearing left a lower lip that was catching on the impeller, so I told him to take it out. He had an old driveshaft that he WELDED a socket end onto haha. Looks awesome.

Came out., banged some more, and voila! Here's our WR.

Unfortunately, the sheared strip was towed and curled quite a few times I'm guessing, resulting in some damage to the jet pump fins...sigh....Well., I knew when I bought this that buying replacements would be a good thing to do. At least it's held up so far, and for a few more months/season till I accept and buy a full replacement kit., jet pump housing & impellers, and steel WR if I can find em cheap enough. His catalog shows them for only twice what I'm buying the one for....so it's not that bad....just have to verify compatibility.





Base fins weren't too bad actually. I'm amazed that from one transient rock (or debris) enough force was generated to cause a laceration of that mid WR portion to just shear away....and with me doing 5kms!!!!. Can you imagine if I was WOT?!!!

See this black lip was catching the impeller, so it had to be removed before the ring would come out. Inside the jet pump it wouldn't split...but once out, I was able to peel it right off lol. Danggggit!

Damage on the jet pump fins. I'm wondering if I should file some of the bumps down. Any help to steamline anything I'm sure will only help.

This fin is the worst. The debris must've banged through here.

Couple points to consider as I wait till wed/thurs when the ring comes in:

1-I bought a thread-lock thingy, it's for metal only, so I'm going to apply this to the BOLT? or to the Thread..of all my bolts?
2a-we found the neoprene ring ($7.50) in his book...but he says I don't need it...and I haven't double checked the schematics to see where it even fits? I thought it said jet pump and the boot. But if so..then where's my CURRENT neoprene ring? Unless I didn't have one? lol? Could it still be stuck on the boot and I didn't notice?
b-if I need to put any sealant on steel-plastic areas or plastic to plastic..I'll still have to go buy a special one for that? The one I bought was steel to steel only. Doh.
3-jet pump oil. proper volume to put inside., check pressure. I'm gonna have to search on threads about the DIY pressure checker. Why can't it just be simple and say put in a full mini bottles' worth? .

 

[100guard]

...That wires you have in the pic goes to the speed sensor, that makes your speedometer work. Mine doesn't hang that low, the plastic nut can be loosened and you can pull the wire in some from the inside.

Oh...btw...yah. I didn't realize it's a tightening nut. It WAS already loose., that's why it kept getting pulled out. I shoved it way back in & tightened righty tighty.

 

[LouDoo]

I don't want to sound critical, but you're making this way more complicated than it needs to be. You've got a newer style pump, it doesn't require sealant. Also it doesn't require a neoprene seal, however I would use one anyway, it mounts on the ride plate directly behind the pump, sticky side toward the ride plate.

If you haven't already done so download a manual for your boat. With the manual and this thread you shouldn't have a problem.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?30720-How-To-Changing-Your-Wear-Ring

You can make your own pressure tester, however checkout www.osdparts.com he's got one reasonably priced.

Lou

 

[El Toro 33809]

I figured this might be a good place to bring this up. Has anyone used one of these, I had an answer on another thread and it was positive. I like to keep a spare to avoid down time and I was thinking about ordering one. It's the same ring the 4-tek's use. And the price is right.

http://www.shopsbt.com/jet-ski-wear-rings/78-101-02.html

Also, OEM's are a little hard to find right now, maybe it's because of the time of the year. I replaced one about a week ago, and I had to get a WSM from Atlantic Jet Sports, they usually have the OEM. The ring fit fine, I guess time will tell.

Lou

Lou, I've used two of their wear rings. One of them was a little loose in the pump and I had to install set screws to hold it in place. SBT is only about an hour from home, so they are a convenient place for me to get parts. I travel on business to about a mile from their shop on a monthly basis.

 

[LouDoo]

Tim,

So is that a yea or a nay?

Lou

 

[El Toro 33809]

Lou,

I'd say yea. Having to use set screws doesn't bother me. Just be sure not to put them in so snug that the ring gets distorted with high spots.

Tim

 

[100guard]

I don't want to sound critical, but you're making this way more complicated than it needs to be. You've got a newer style pump, it doesn't require sealant. Also it doesn't require a neoprene seal, however I would use one anyway, it mounts on the ride plate directly behind the pump, sticky side toward the ride plate.

If you haven't already done so download a manual for your boat. With the manual and this thread you shouldn't have a problem.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?30720-How-To-Changing-Your-Wear-Ring

Lou

Not at all. I appreciate the help & "tellin' it to me straight".

Keep in mind this is a HUGE first for me, so I'm just taking advantage of the few days before I get the part to really mull things over, and become confident with them-that I don't forget something just as I'm about to go in the water and realize I didn't put any loctite LOL.

I read in the wear ring thread of the need for neoprene sleeve. I'm only too happy to hear you say I don't need it, one less thing to worry about.

When you say doesn't require sealant...so you mean..NOTHING? So in your words then-where do I need to put any sealant or loctite? Just on nuts? No sealant anywhere else? Hey-if so-that is gold!!

You can make your own pressure tester, however checkout www.osdparts.com he's got one reasonably priced.

Found it!

http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=1&products_id=60
So that one? I don't understand where it sits into? Does it have a needle (like for pumping balls) that I insert into the cone hole or?

...SBT is only about an hour from home...

What I'd give to have a parts supplier that close .

 

[LouDoo]

What I said was your pump didn't require the neoprene seal, but I also said that I would use one any way. It's just a little extra insurance against cavitation. Also I said your pump doesn't require and sealant, there are no through hull fittings, apply a little vasoline to the "O" rings. It does however require locktite where specified in the manual.

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se... Sea Doo Jet Boat Speedster PROPULSION SYSTEM

Lou

 

[100guard]

What I said was your pump didn't require the neoprene seal, but I also said that I would use one any way. It's just a little extra insurance against cavitation. Also I said your pump doesn't require and sealant, there are no through hull fittings, apply a little vasoline to the "O" rings. It does however require locktite where specified in the manual.

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se... Sea Doo Jet Boat Speedster PROPULSION SYSTEM

Lou

Got it! Thank you,

 

[100guard]

as I'm reading the manual (somehow I found it on in my directory, I must've downloaded it last year)., I'm getting a little antsy about some things.


Just to be clear loctite 242 is for threads, steel to steel.

518 is for plastic parts?

What's loctite pipe sealant 592 [edit], reviewed that microfiche page.
So Prime it., then 592 it, then slide that screw in the cone! yes!

All the various torques

venturi bolts
jet pump housing
steering
reverse gates
cone screws x3

All that stuff, do I really have to adhere to it religiously or is there wiggle room?

I'm going out tomorrow and buying a light duty digital torque thingy, so I CAN adhere to the measurements.

The manual addresses precautionary test-runs once all is said and done. Lube wear ring with soapy, to ensure impeller runs smooth. If too tight, 1 turn unloosen Jpump bolts., all that stuff can affect performance? If I've adhered to torque strengths shouldn't everything run fine? or can various items impatc how tight everything sits EVEN when I've adhered to torque specs?

I didn't read anything about antiseize int hemanual, but I've read people say put it on the driveshaft/impeller? Or was it somewhere else I read that?

Tomorrow WR & Neoprene get ordered, Wed delivery (or Thurs)., then assembly., and hopefully out on water by Sat/Sun weather permitting!

Very excited!

 

[100guard]

....Also I said your pump doesn't require and sealant, there are no through hull fittings, apply a little vasoline to the "O" rings. It does however require locktite where specified in the manual.

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se... Sea Doo Jet Boat Speedster PROPULSION SYSTEM

Lou

I've scoured the city, and can't find the damn loctite 518 (on the plastic surfaces of pump housing and boot) or pipe sealant 592 (for the cone screw)

Parts should be here tomorrow, and I'm wondering what to do.

You said I don't need sealant., that's great. I'm assuming from vaguely recalling the shop manual that's between the neoprene and boot and jet pump housing?

What can I use instead for sealing the pressure test nozzle in the cone, and for then sealing that screw in there? Would any generic super glue work?

I just ordered the impeller removal tool for the next time. $9.99+7.99 S&H from Ebay. The guy who's ordering the part has a his MacGyver'd tool so I'll bring everything there to install it for this time, Maybe I can finangle having him help me do the cone while I'm there haha. Then It'll just be an easy follow torques and install everything back together at my place without having to worry about any glues, other than thread-locker with the loctite 242 that I DID manage to find.

 

[Guest_User]

I've scoured the city, and can't find the damn loctite 518 (on the plastic surfaces of pump housing and boot) or pipe sealant 592 (for the cone screw)

Parts should be here tomorrow, and I'm wondering what to do.

You said I don't need sealant., that's great. I'm assuming from vaguely recalling the shop manual that's between the neoprene and boot and jet pump housing?

What can I use instead for sealing the pressure test nozzle in the cone, and for then sealing that screw in there? Would any generic super glue work?

I just ordered the impeller removal tool for the next time. $9.99+7.99 S&H from Ebay. The guy who's ordering the part has a his MacGyver'd tool so I'll bring everything there to install it for this time, Maybe I can finangle having him help me do the cone while I'm there haha. Then It'll just be an easy follow torques and install everything back together at my place without having to worry about any glues, other than thread-locker with the loctite 242 that I DID manage to find.

518 is anerobic flange sealant
ARP thread sealer will work (automotive)
Use a NEW neoprene seal between pump and transom.

sealants, thread sealants and thread lockers can be bought on Amazon.com

some people don`t use anything between the exit/venturi nozzle and pump. I choose to use 518, or 1211.
If your itching to use something, ultra black RTV (automotive), just use enough in the groove to seal, don`t go nuts...

if the O ring on the pump cone looks ugly, you`ll need a new one. if it is clean and reusable, you should use something to seal it as well IMHO.
Don`t rush, take your time. this is the drive system in your boat!

I fill the pump with oil while I have it level on the work bench, just to make it easier looking into the fill plug for oil level...
tighten your pump bolts in a X pattern, hand tighten first to seat the pump in the transom with a new neoprene seal, then torque to proper number...

Good Luck!

seadoo synthetic grease on the driveshaft splines and in the impeller splines, don`t fill it , just give it a good coating.
or any good water proof grease will do..

 

[Guest_User]

SBT is only about an hour from home, so they are a convenient place for me to get parts. I travel on business to about a mile from their shop on a monthly basis.

Awesome! next time your there please tell Jeremy C and Tom V, Pale Rider says hey!

I have 2 of the SBT wear rings for the challenger sitting on the shelf. I have used their Delrin wear rings in the replacable housing in the Yamaha and was satisfied...
stock applications they are fine, turn up the wick with mods and you might boil them. Some have said they don`t fit well with aftermarket props, I haven`t found this to be true yet. I`ve run skat and solas thru them with no issues. the first few revolutions has them cut right in... the deal with the plastic pumps is that they distort when torqued down to the transom, and absolutely no issue in the aluminum housings so far...

I was disappointed in the oem black wear rings, bc only after 2 hours with the OEM impellers I had cav burns, even tho the boat did not cavitate out of the hole. Hopefully I`ll get the rest of the season on the replacement OEM`s I have now. and use the SBT`s when the pumps gets serviced again...

100gaurd, sorry for the thread jackl!

 

[racerxxx]

I've scoured the city, and can't find the damn loctite 518 (on the plastic surfaces of pump housing and boot) or pipe sealant 592 (for the cone screw)

Use teflon tape on the plug for the cone available at any hardware store--no need for a fancy sealant or even pipe dope from Home Depot or Lowes if you have them north of the border. And if your looking for the 518 to put on the cone--don't bother the o-ring will more than seal it up if it's not messed up. Personally, if you drained the oil and it looked like oil and not like a milkshake your good to go--no leaks. I've had my cones off my 99 every year---still using the same o-ring from 99. Keep it simple.