I used what I had. I just wanted to get some kind of lube in there ASAP, to start penetrating and replacing any water or whatever was in there.
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Starting a new thread...
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Hints/suggestions/warnings before I swap the wear ring 96 XP?
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I know...It was better than doing nothing..."you got to do what you got to do"... Tell louis(seadoosnipe) I stole that one too...lol
Following the post...
Was re-reading the post about the wearing ring, then it went into the engine seize....glad you opened a new thread on it.
I wouldn't use any "super" cooling liquid on the plastic or rubber parts. As I wrote in the last post, you may not need to change the bearings....just get the tool for pulling the impeller. Your description describes that the inner "hard rubber" of the ring is completly gone. The teflon skeleton is all that's left. The dremel tool is a great idea. Just don't do like I did. I was ever so careful in using the broken hack saw blade with tape wrapped around it. Man, that was a pain in the butt.
When I replaced the bearings in my pump, I bought and used no special tools. I used two different sets of sockets to pop them in and out with. One socke a deep well, that had a perfect inside diameter fit to guide the bearings without binding and the other to fit on the outside diameter for tapping them out with. Then, when installing, the bearings have a minimum and maximum clearence from the edge of the bearing housing. I used a millimeter spark plug gage to judge that distance.
That sound your talking about, that makes you think there is a bad bearing, when it's running on land, is common in all the older model seadoos....don't let that be your judge of a bad bearing.
Was re-reading the post about the wearing ring, then it went into the engine seize....glad you opened a new thread on it.
I wouldn't use any "super" cooling liquid on the plastic or rubber parts. As I wrote in the last post, you may not need to change the bearings....just get the tool for pulling the impeller. Your description describes that the inner "hard rubber" of the ring is completly gone. The teflon skeleton is all that's left. The dremel tool is a great idea. Just don't do like I did. I was ever so careful in using the broken hack saw blade with tape wrapped around it. Man, that was a pain in the butt.
When I replaced the bearings in my pump, I bought and used no special tools. I used two different sets of sockets to pop them in and out with. One socke a deep well, that had a perfect inside diameter fit to guide the bearings without binding and the other to fit on the outside diameter for tapping them out with. Then, when installing, the bearings have a minimum and maximum clearence from the edge of the bearing housing. I used a millimeter spark plug gage to judge that distance.
That sound your talking about, that makes you think there is a bad bearing, when it's running on land, is common in all the older model seadoos....don't let that be your judge of a bad bearing.
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There is a after market kit to resolve the rattle in the impeller shaft. This is very common and isn't a problem or a bad thing...but it does get annoying.
I'll check on the vender if you want one.
Karl
I'll check on the vender if you want one.
Karl
Transmission fluid...
I really don't think your idea of putting transmission fluid into your engine to protect it was a bad choice. Even though it is a type of hydraulic oil it is formulated with premium, severely hydroprocessed base stocks and carefully crafted additives that provide oxidation and thermal stability, friction control, load-carrying ability, corrosion and wear protection. It helps protect against the formation of sludge, varnish, other harmful deposits, and foam.
So, if you were just looking to help protect it till you could do something with it, I don't think this was a bad choice at all.
Of course, it's gonna smoke like the dickens when you start it up, I'd think.
I really don't think your idea of putting transmission fluid into your engine to protect it was a bad choice. Even though it is a type of hydraulic oil it is formulated with premium, severely hydroprocessed base stocks and carefully crafted additives that provide oxidation and thermal stability, friction control, load-carrying ability, corrosion and wear protection. It helps protect against the formation of sludge, varnish, other harmful deposits, and foam.
So, if you were just looking to help protect it till you could do something with it, I don't think this was a bad choice at all.
Of course, it's gonna smoke like the dickens when you start it up, I'd think.
trans choice
Well, all I know is that between the time one afternoon when I first noticed the engine had seized, when I put the trans fluid in the spark plug holes and the following afternoon when I had a chance to get into the engine and take a look at it and diagnose the problem, it freed itself up.
Glad to hear that rattling jet drive is normal. I never worried much about it because it was quiet on water. and my experience with bearings is that when they show their first sign of wear is a VERY short time to failure, and these haven't gotten any worse.
Well, all I know is that between the time one afternoon when I first noticed the engine had seized, when I put the trans fluid in the spark plug holes and the following afternoon when I had a chance to get into the engine and take a look at it and diagnose the problem, it freed itself up.
Glad to hear that rattling jet drive is normal. I never worried much about it because it was quiet on water. and my experience with bearings is that when they show their first sign of wear is a VERY short time to failure, and these haven't gotten any worse.
bearing noise...
Mine does it when I run it out of the water during flushing. When I first heard it, I too thought the bearings were going out. Back before I was a moderator, I didn't know alot about this set-up, so I changed them out when I changed out my wearing ring. That is when I first found this site. Then, when I started it up, it was still doing it.
I think it may have a little to do with the alignment of the motor to the pump. Not being just perfect. But as anyone knows on shaft alignment, you can be a tad off. The splines will take a little deflection......
Mine does it when I run it out of the water during flushing. When I first heard it, I too thought the bearings were going out. Back before I was a moderator, I didn't know alot about this set-up, so I changed them out when I changed out my wearing ring. That is when I first found this site. Then, when I started it up, it was still doing it.
I think it may have a little to do with the alignment of the motor to the pump. Not being just perfect. But as anyone knows on shaft alignment, you can be a tad off. The splines will take a little deflection......
I would have been pretty upset if I bought the extra parts and did the extra work and it still made the noise...:rant:
testing....
That's what the testing is for. The biggest reason I replaced the bearings was because you do have to remove the impeller and shaft to get to the wearing ring. That went "south" on me. So I figured,the bearings were 10 years old, it was best to do it now anyway.
That's what the testing is for. The biggest reason I replaced the bearings was because you do have to remove the impeller and shaft to get to the wearing ring. That went "south" on me. So I figured,the bearings were 10 years old, it was best to do it now anyway.
That is where I am now...it is sort of a gamble to replace them or not. I am not sure I want to be this far disassembled anytime soon, so I may go ahead and do them. Feels more comfy knowing the new ones are not going to go out soon.
It's apart and it won't need it again for while if you do it now. As far as the rattle in the jet drive when flushing...The mod kit is just a spring that goes in the end nose cone, on the end or the impeller shaft.It is a simple device that stops the rattle..cost about $15.00 I think at, seadoosource.com.
Karl
Karl
my wear ring is worn to .140, how much difference will a new one feel?
I am assuming it will be quicker off the line, but will I also pick up some top end speed?
What is the "new" measurement?
I am assuming it will be quicker off the line, but will I also pick up some top end speed?
What is the "new" measurement?
bad clearance....
That is pretty well dusted!......you put in a new ring and you should actually feel and see a pretty good increase in bottom and top end. As long as that wear was gradual. If it was from a total loss of the liner at one time, you may not feel alot. With the age, I think it was probably gradual. I'm also gonna slide a PM your way.
That is pretty well dusted!......you put in a new ring and you should actually feel and see a pretty good increase in bottom and top end. As long as that wear was gradual. If it was from a total loss of the liner at one time, you may not feel alot. With the age, I think it was probably gradual. I'm also gonna slide a PM your way.
The wear was actually very even and smooth. There are no pits or nicks in the impeller. The previous owner did all skiing off the beach in 0-8' of water, so the wear is from sandy water being forced through it. If I didn't know that .030-.040 was the limit, I would have guessed it was fine as is...
See it's a good thing to have us around...lol otherwise you'd be ridding a really slow seadoo!
Karl
Karl
Should this gap be here?
Shouldn't the wear ring be seated all the way down so there is no gap?
Got it all apart and going to order parts today. Hopefully they have them in stock but I doubt it...
Do I need to use the Caillau Click Clamp (SKU:293650055) to secure the boot to the engine, or can I use a hose clamp? Thought the hose clamp might throw it a little off balance and give me a vibration...
Shouldn't the wear ring be seated all the way down so there is no gap?
Got it all apart and going to order parts today. Hopefully they have them in stock but I doubt it...
Do I need to use the Caillau Click Clamp (SKU:293650055) to secure the boot to the engine, or can I use a hose clamp? Thought the hose clamp might throw it a little off balance and give me a vibration...
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Ordered all my parts...
...came up to around $190. Had to replace a couple seals, wear ring, a couple of boots, carbon seal, etc. Just things I found damaged/worn when i got in there, or thought they wouldn't last another couple of years and decided to replace them now.
Couple questions...the 75W-90 lube on the jet bearings...does it have to be something special, or can I use the stuff from the auto parts, maybe even a synthetic?
Instead of those click clamps on the boot on the engine, can I use 2 hose clamps and just install the screw on opposite sides to balance them out? Or is this balance even an issue?
...came up to around $190. Had to replace a couple seals, wear ring, a couple of boots, carbon seal, etc. Just things I found damaged/worn when i got in there, or thought they wouldn't last another couple of years and decided to replace them now.
Couple questions...the 75W-90 lube on the jet bearings...does it have to be something special, or can I use the stuff from the auto parts, maybe even a synthetic?
Instead of those click clamps on the boot on the engine, can I use 2 hose clamps and just install the screw on opposite sides to balance them out? Or is this balance even an issue?
Wow!...
Wow, that ring is completely "dusted".........not a thing left on it! Yes, it should sit all the way down. Before you go into putting the new one in, get some dishwashing liquid and put on it. That gives it the ability to go in without sticking. You can't use a petroleum product since they normally soften and eat away at rubber products.
Then, when you place it on your pump casing, just take a 2X4 and lay across it and tap it evenly and lightly. It'll go in pretty easy. Just move the 2X4 in circles alot when you start doing it.........
The stator looks like it's in good shape.......great job so far:hurray:
Oh, btw, your pump calls for a synthetic seadoo blend of oil. I couldn't find a cross reference when I did mine, so I ordered a bottle for like $12 bucks.
If I had to guess, when I put it in, it had a weight consistancy of about 75. I know it wasn't 90. But it was also synthetic. Maybe you could get it at a local shop. Even a Honda shop might have the synthetic blend in their pumps..........I hate to even mention another shop, but the closest Sea-Doo shop for me is almost 2 hours away.............:ack:
Wow, that ring is completely "dusted".........not a thing left on it! Yes, it should sit all the way down. Before you go into putting the new one in, get some dishwashing liquid and put on it. That gives it the ability to go in without sticking. You can't use a petroleum product since they normally soften and eat away at rubber products.
Then, when you place it on your pump casing, just take a 2X4 and lay across it and tap it evenly and lightly. It'll go in pretty easy. Just move the 2X4 in circles alot when you start doing it.........
The stator looks like it's in good shape.......great job so far:hurray:
Oh, btw, your pump calls for a synthetic seadoo blend of oil. I couldn't find a cross reference when I did mine, so I ordered a bottle for like $12 bucks.
If I had to guess, when I put it in, it had a weight consistancy of about 75. I know it wasn't 90. But it was also synthetic. Maybe you could get it at a local shop. Even a Honda shop might have the synthetic blend in their pumps..........I hate to even mention another shop, but the closest Sea-Doo shop for me is almost 2 hours away.............:ack:
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Thanks!
Thanks for the compliments and the response.
On Babbit's website, when you pull up the exploded views, it has a number next to a drop of oil, and when you look down at the part number, it says it is Seadoo 75W-90. That is where I got that weight. I guess I should use the same thing so any oil left in the bearings won't be mixed with another type of oil and possibly mess it up. It is only $12, a small amount compared to the $190 I have invested in parts.
The guy at the shop said he keeps it in stock, so I will pick up a bottle when I pick up my parts.
Thanks for the compliments and the response.
On Babbit's website, when you pull up the exploded views, it has a number next to a drop of oil, and when you look down at the part number, it says it is Seadoo 75W-90. That is where I got that weight. I guess I should use the same thing so any oil left in the bearings won't be mixed with another type of oil and possibly mess it up. It is only $12, a small amount compared to the $190 I have invested in parts.
The guy at the shop said he keeps it in stock, so I will pick up a bottle when I pick up my parts.
Oils...
That's where I got all my parts. I actually found them on our home page, way back when, before I was a moderator.
I knew it was a synthetic blend and about 75 weight, but I didn't think it was to much more than that.
How is the play in the shaft. Any up and down, side to side?
That's where I got all my parts. I actually found them on our home page, way back when, before I was a moderator.
I knew it was a synthetic blend and about 75 weight, but I didn't think it was to much more than that.
How is the play in the shaft. Any up and down, side to side?
No play in shaft. It comes out if I pull it, but nice tight fit. No slop. Bearings have nice smooth surfaces, roll with no scratching or binding. Oil was very clean coming out. So I decided to leave the bearings be, and work on the rest.
I actually used the Babbit's site to find my parts and numbers, then called the semi-local (45-60 minute drive each way) Sea-doo shop and ordered the parts. Cost me about $15 more, but no shipping. I called the guy and said "pull up 96 XP on the computer, and start ordering these parts. Tell me my cost as I give you the SKU number." Quick, easy, and I know I got the correct parts. I actually said stuff like "O-ring, SKU # 111222333" and he confirmed the part and gave me the price. Pretty close to Babbits. Some parts were a buck or five more, some a buck or five less, and end the end, I paid about $40 more than I estimated when they put in tax and the little extra on some of the parts.
Parts will be in Tuesday but I will be in California all next week so I will have to wait until the week after to pick them up and install them.
I actually used the Babbit's site to find my parts and numbers, then called the semi-local (45-60 minute drive each way) Sea-doo shop and ordered the parts. Cost me about $15 more, but no shipping. I called the guy and said "pull up 96 XP on the computer, and start ordering these parts. Tell me my cost as I give you the SKU number." Quick, easy, and I know I got the correct parts. I actually said stuff like "O-ring, SKU # 111222333" and he confirmed the part and gave me the price. Pretty close to Babbits. Some parts were a buck or five more, some a buck or five less, and end the end, I paid about $40 more than I estimated when they put in tax and the little extra on some of the parts.
Parts will be in Tuesday but I will be in California all next week so I will have to wait until the week after to pick them up and install them.
Order!
Great!....doesn't it make you feel good when you can call and "tell" someone what you want and not have to "ask" them for what you need. Then, sometime when you ask them what you need, they give you the wrong part!......that's what the forum is all about. Knowledge!...Learing about what we have, what we want, what we can do with it, and how we're gonna manage it!..........
That's justice in a box (computer)!...............:rofl:
Well, it sounds like your shaft is in good shape. I'm sure you looked at the thrust bearing to see that the pins all look smooth, no burn look in them. When it's all back together, push and pull to see how much play is in your shaft. With your input so far, I think it'll be just fine. You are suppose to do an air test to check the seals. It's done so that when the boat is in the water, you don't lose your oil and fill up the bearing housing with water. I didn't do mine. Only reason I didnt' do it is because how often I take off the pump. I check the oil probably 4 times a year...........so, if you don't do the air test, after you run for 8 to 10 hours, you may want to pull the cap and look at the oil color. You know, if it's a yellow looking color, water is getting in..........
Great!....doesn't it make you feel good when you can call and "tell" someone what you want and not have to "ask" them for what you need. Then, sometime when you ask them what you need, they give you the wrong part!......that's what the forum is all about. Knowledge!...Learing about what we have, what we want, what we can do with it, and how we're gonna manage it!..........
That's justice in a box (computer)!...............:rofl:
Well, it sounds like your shaft is in good shape. I'm sure you looked at the thrust bearing to see that the pins all look smooth, no burn look in them. When it's all back together, push and pull to see how much play is in your shaft. With your input so far, I think it'll be just fine. You are suppose to do an air test to check the seals. It's done so that when the boat is in the water, you don't lose your oil and fill up the bearing housing with water. I didn't do mine. Only reason I didnt' do it is because how often I take off the pump. I check the oil probably 4 times a year...........so, if you don't do the air test, after you run for 8 to 10 hours, you may want to pull the cap and look at the oil color. You know, if it's a yellow looking color, water is getting in..........
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I work a lot on cars and worked my way through college by working at a machine shop on boring mills (up to 100") and lathes. Milling machines, etc.
Made $1000 a week, on 60-70 hour weeks and weekends...
Anyway, we mostly replace bearings in huge compressors and centrifugal pumps. So I am pretty comfortable with bearings. I expected to replace these, but when I pulled them out, I was VERY surprised to see how clean they looked. I have no worries about them at this time.
The wear ring, and some of the seals...I was worried about, so I replaced them. Some looked water tight for now, but I doubt they would be in another year, so I replaced them too.
I am confident that I can get another 2 season's use out of this doohicky if nothing electrical goes out (electrical is my weak point, and bodywork....:ack
Made $1000 a week, on 60-70 hour weeks and weekends...
Anyway, we mostly replace bearings in huge compressors and centrifugal pumps. So I am pretty comfortable with bearings. I expected to replace these, but when I pulled them out, I was VERY surprised to see how clean they looked. I have no worries about them at this time.
The wear ring, and some of the seals...I was worried about, so I replaced them. Some looked water tight for now, but I doubt they would be in another year, so I replaced them too.
I am confident that I can get another 2 season's use out of this doohicky if nothing electrical goes out (electrical is my weak point, and bodywork....:ack
Something in common!....
So, we have something in common Scooper......I to work with bearings. Mostly on steam turbines. Just my combination thrust/journal in my blower weighs 88 pounds....the shoes and leveling plates in another of my thrust bearings is about 40 pounds. We also use carbon and lambryth seals.......
Close tolerances has been part of my game for years. Although I do no specific boring or have used milling tools, I've done the measurements after they were finished to check for accuracy...........:cheers:
So, we have something in common Scooper......I to work with bearings. Mostly on steam turbines. Just my combination thrust/journal in my blower weighs 88 pounds....the shoes and leveling plates in another of my thrust bearings is about 40 pounds. We also use carbon and lambryth seals.......
Close tolerances has been part of my game for years. Although I do no specific boring or have used milling tools, I've done the measurements after they were finished to check for accuracy...........:cheers:
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