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High rpm low speed

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nswillin

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Was riding my seadoo today just fine for about 45 min. I slowed down, did a few sharp turn and all of a sudden I couldn't go fast any more. The engine revs up but it will not move very quick. It will move but only bout 10 15 mph with rpms up. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Wear ring...

If your intake grate is clear, then you may be ready for a wear ring replacement. You can measure the distance between the outer edge of the impeller blade to the wearing ring. Maximum allowable distance is .040"
 
Yeah, I looked up the intake with a flash light and didn't see anything. The impeller looks kinda worn but not anything crazy. maybe it sucked something up into the jet pump?
 
It could have something in the Jet pump area...chances are if it looks by eye like more than 1/16 of an inch clearence the wear ring is bad as seadoosnipe says.

Karl
 
Thanks guys. I pulled the nozzle and venturi? off and saw this black plastic looking thing all mangled and poking through a little. Is that part of the wear ring. Are they made of plastic? I took some pictures.
 
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yeah. the manual says if the impeller is worn or chipped like mine the balance is off and will destroy the wear ring. Guess I gotta get new impeller and wear ring. Looking at the manual it doesn't look like a job I can do b/c all the special tools.
Guess it's mechanic time unless anybody knows an easier way to replace both.:)
 
looking at how far you have come takeing it apart I believe you can do it. The only special tool you need you can buy when you order your parts It cost like $15.00. If you have replaced car parts like starters water pumps and so forth you should be able to do this. Just ask what ever questions you may have and I am sure others will help you out. good luck Robin :cheers:
 
Thanks a lot Robin. What do you suggest as far as the impeller? New one's are very pricey, but used ones kinda scare me.
 
You can send it off and probbly checked out and fixed for less than $75.00 Mine new is $75.00 But I went and bought the best out there because I am pushing a 14 foot boat.
 
New stainless is $200. My boss has a four winns boat and took his prop to this guy in town that fixes them. I wonder if they can do seadoo impellers also. I'll check on that before buying the new one. :cheers:
 
nswillin, What I would do before you replace yu impeller is go to " www.sbtonthe web.com " and check out what it will cost here to have it reconditioned. Here is sominformation to look at to see what you'ar up against to replace the wear ring. This information is from a similiar model and will give you some insight.
For starters....

1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!

2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.

3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts holding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.

4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. Make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.

5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible.

They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. Cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.

6.) Now you have your pump and impellor in your hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose plugs.... This stuff reeks to high heaven...

7.) After cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)

8.) Place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (may take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)

9.) Now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the freezer.

10.) You have to get the old wear ring out of the pump. ( I have found the easiest way is to take a saws all and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be careful only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.

11.) Take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to separate them.

12.) Clean all the white corrosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring

13.) After tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (don’t dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesn’t slide in then you didn’t clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....

14.) Reinstall the impellor in the reverse order.

Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impellor shaft. That’s why it’s a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.

Once the impellor is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you don’t start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..

15) Inspect the rubber o ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.

16) Lower the front of the ski and add oil to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.

17) wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.

18) Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyolester Oil

Karl
 
Wow! Great advise, as usual. I love this place. Well, I took the jet pump off and cant get a tool until Monday to take the impeller off. I noticed mine has a small boot, the manual calls it impeller boot and ring. Do I need to take that off before removing the impeller. The picture in the manual doesn't show on there but doesn't say anything about taking it off.
 
I think on that model the boot comes off with the impeller. Just be careful not to damage it, or you'll be replacing it.

Karl
 
does this impeller look really bad or is this normal wear.
 
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That impeller and wear ring look bad... here are the specs again...Wear Ring clearance for your seadoo 1.0 mm or (.040in) Measure the clearance at the center of the impeller blades, with a 12” long gauge. Measure the clearance from the venturi side of the jet pump.

Let us know how you make out.

Karl
 
Thanks for all the help you guys. I got my removal tool today and took the impeller off and took it to a local guy that remans them for $50. Got my wear ring and pump oil from the dealer here and replaced the wear ring. The impeller was really easy to get off, well not real easy but I didn't have to use heat or a huge brace bar. I guess whoever took it off last time didn't put lock tight or something. Had the wear ring in the freezer, took it out and it slide right in barely had to tap it. Mine has four retaining screws for the wear ring so I had to put those in also. Good call on the freezer Karl. All the bearings and shaft look great so I get my impeller back on Wed. I went ahead bought that rubber impeller boot just in case b/c it was only $3 and they had it there. But I didnt break mine but will prob replace anyways. Hopefully I'll get that puppy in Wed night and be ready for this weekend, depending on how the impeller install goes.:cheers:
 
Got my impeller back today. Wow, it looks brand new. I was kinda nervous about putting everything back together today, but it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Impeller went in fine, got the oil filled up and very cautiously put all the pieces back together again. Only thing was the manual says the impeller should be torqued to 81lbs. That tight it wouldn't spin so I took it off and made sure I didn't do anything to that thrust washer, saw it was fine and put it back on. This time I torqued it to 81 and then backed it off about half turn and was would spin really good and had about 1/4 play back and forth when pulling and pushing it. I'm gonna take it out for a test drive tomorrow so hopefully I'll be ready for this weekend. Thanks for the help everybody.
 
Thats good you didn't have any problems...only thing is that you need to torque bolts to a set values so it won't come apart or get over tightened. You shouldn't tighten nuts, bolts or anything to the required torque and than loosen it up...that defeats the purpose.:ack:

Karl
 
So... I wonder why both times when I torqued it to 81 I couldn't spin the impeller. The thrust washer and bearing seemed to be going in fine when I was tightening them.:confused: Is gonna fall off now?
 
Did you do it this way? You do not have to take the shaft out of the pump for the thrust bearing to fall into the grove in the shaft! If you had the pump cover off the pump while pump was off the boat there is a good chance you allowed the impellor shaft to move rearward in the pump.

The thrust bearing on the back of the impellor shaft can fall into the grove in the shaft if shaft moves rearwards. You will not know it until you tighten down the cone screws. If you force the cone to seat on the pump by tightening the cone screws while the thrust bearing is in the shaft's grove the bearing will get pinched and it will be bad.

You need to remove the impellor, remove the impellor shaft and closely inspect the center part of the thrust bearing. It will be pinched. You should not reuse it

Once you have thrust bearing centered on the shaft, do not allow the shaft to move rearward during assembly. Use a thick axel grease to hold it and the thrust washer into place. Make sure that shaft never moves backwards during assembly. Once you are ready to install the cone, remove the oring from the cone and put it into the back of the housing by hand, without useing the screws. If cone can be pushed all the way down flush by hand, the bearing is in place. Put the oring back onto the cone and install it. The impellor shaft should have some endplay with the cone installed correctly. If you do not have any endplay, the bearing is pinched. Good luck Robin :cheers:
 
I installed the impeller exactly the way the manual said. I put the Thrust washer in first and then the bearing. Installed the shaft. Picked up the assembly and put the shaft end in a vise with the shafts threads pointing up.Put lock tight on the threads. Hand threaded the impeller on hand tight making sure it wasn't cross threading. Put the impeller tool on and cranked it down to 81lbft. Impeller would not spin free. Took it apart checked everything, and did it again, same thing. Back it off a little and was free. Put cone on while holding spring slider with a pencil, then check the action of the spring after it was tight and it worked. What did I do wrong?
 
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