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Help tuning my carbs...94 XP

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MontanaXP

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'94 XP Yellow Fuel, Slow Mid-Range Acceleration...?

I read through the following site... http://www.factorypipe.com/t_carbtuning.php And learned quite a bit about how my carb(s) work but I am more of a visual kinda guy. Does anyone have pictures of these valves and such so I know what to look for? Also is this information relevant to my '94 SeaDoo XP?
 
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hey...check out the "sticky" from JPX, on this site...gives play-by-play of rebuild'n carbs...
...your carb specs and settings......1994 XP 657X 270500196 270500195 BN-38I (SB) MAIN-132.5 PILOT-75 1.5n/s 16psi - 21psi LOW(adj. screw)- 1-1/4 HIGH(adj. screw)- 0 SHAFTS IN LINE
 
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Can you de-code that for me? I am understanding 16-21 psi on the pop-off, 1 1/4 turns from bottom for the low speed adjuster, and all the way in for the high speed adjuster (without removing the cap?). What about the low and high speed jets?
 
Can you de-code that for me...lol,...main jet probably is what is supposed to be, 132.5, same with pilot jet 75...(thats size of jets)
 
Another Day Closer To Freedom!

Yesterday I went up to Seeley Lake to see what new fuel lines and blasting out the carbs with cleaner was gonna do for me. Well what a crappy day, she ran HORRIBLE! All day I tried to tune her up using the Low Speed Adjusters, to no avail. This morning I decided to tear into the carbs and check how the needles were seating, but I never made it that far...

So I mentioned I had changed my fuel lines last week correct? Well they didn't go down without a fight. The fuel they left in my tank was as yellow as beer!
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Those lines are nasty! There is no way my fuel could have gotten contaminated by sitting in there for a week. Granted it did rain all week. But I've come to the conclusion that fuel running through the grey lines gets yellow and stale like this and goes back to the tank via the return line. So I cleaned out the entire fuel system this morning, draned the tank, cleaned it, flushed out all fuel lines, blew out the carb lines, cleaned the spinner filter (needed a new gasket, had to make one from a bit larger neoprene gasket but made it through the day). Pute it all back together, reset the carbs to LSA 1 1/4 turns out, and the HSA in the middle (caps are still on, can only turn 1/4 of a turn) Idle was around 1500rpm. went to the gas station, filled her up with premium (a little treat hoping she'd be happy to have fresh fuel in a fresh system). Oh also I forgot to mention I put in a new check valve on my fuel vent, last one was toast, just went to the auto parts store and got a VAC line check valve, looks almost identicle. So now I should be able to keep some fuel pressure in the ole tank.

Well I drove 50 miles to Salmon Lake (MT) and put in the dran plug, unstapped the ol girl blew some air inthe check valve vent, pushed down on the gas tank to prime 'er and choked her till she ran! Okay tunerd it off, put it in the water, fired right up and had plenty of spunk for the short trip to the beach. Parked the truck and went back and once I got on the lake there was just a little hesitation in the mid range. I thought well I'll go turn out those LSAs 1/4...from that point on the mid range only got worse...didn't matter where those LSAs or HSAs were there was just nothing from 2500 rpm to 4500rmp. soon as she hit 4500 she ran like a raped ape, got a full 7000rpm and 50 mph out of her. So right now anything over 4500 rpm is great, but just no power below there.

So I came home and pulled the air box and took her down to the river and back it in still strapped down. I decided to do some power tuning. Fired it up and started turning the LSAs simultaneously...my results? A smooth idle was obtained between 1600 and 2100 rpm with the LSAs ALL THE WAY IN!? :confused: The further out they came the worse she ran...so I put in new plugs, gapped to approx .21. Still no better, old plugs were a nice golden brown, like a butterball turkey on Thanksgiving Day.

So right now I have done the following...

New Fuel Lines
New Check Valve
Cleaned Out Carb With Carb Cleaner (took both sides off, new gaskets)
New Plugs
Adjusted LSAs Anywhere Between 3 Turns and No Turns
Adjusted HSAs Within Range of Factory Cap

And when I give her full throttle she typically bogs for a second then slowly climbs through 2500-4500rpm then takes off like a bull with gas. If I choked it just a little she usually flew threw 3000+ and would nearly throw me off the back. So if anyone out here has one more step for me to try I am ready for it :D!
 
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Anybody? Also I was thinking back on yesterdays ride...As soon as the rpms dropped below 4500 the ski would have to come to nearly a complete stop before it could get up the gumption to accelerate again. Could there be some kind of blockage in my carb?
 
Okay I'm out working on it right now, pulled the carbs and low and behold I have the same nasty yellow fuel in there again! where is this coming from?! The tank had some pressure in it, but when i blew in the return line to flush out some fuel from the supply, it just kinda bubbled then all came shooting out the return line... I am clueless...my oil is similar in color to the fuel also.
 
Two Steps forward and one step back

Well Tonight I decided to check out those jets and needles. I learned a bit more about my carbs tonight thanks to a friend. He thought it wouldn't hurt to get a new needle valve (needle/seat) cause it looked ever so slightly deformed. So tomorrow I will get a pair of them. Discovered a crack in my oil injection oil line, the tiny ones so I will try to replace those this week as well.

My fuel is again yellow after an hour and a half of running(yesterday). Has anyone else had this issue before? Only thing I can think of is that I am getting oil in my fuel. It smells very stale and is a bit lighter in color than my oil. BUT there is no place where the oil and fuel could mix...except through the pulse line to the carbs, but if oil was coming through there i could not tell because the line was clear and dry, but smelled again of that staleness. Anyways that fuel could make it back to the tank via the return line.

The check valve on the fuel tank, is that supposed to allow air in or out? I have it setup to let air in but not out. I am also going to replace the relief valve on that same vent line.

Here are some pictures of my carbs as I cleaned and put them back together, if you see anything unusual please speak up.

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Below are pictures of my oil lines, notice the color of the oil compared to my fuel color. My oil lines are not the same lengths as the stock ones.

Supply
n29408519_34491524_5167.jpg


Return (notice it stops and level of oil in the tank)
n29408519_34491525_5487.jpg


Fuel Color


I am really hoping to hear some input from someone on this, so please don't be shy :).
 
I may be wrong but I would be concerned about the oil line--it would seem that is should be full of oil?? As I recall, you need to prime/bleed the oil pump after line changes or running empty..........can someone confirm?
 
There is a procedure to bleed the oil supply to the oil pump. An air pocket will not allow oil delivery to the oil pump correctly.
 
I may be wrong but I would be concerned about the oil line--it would seem that is should be full of oil?? As I recall, you need to prime/bleed the oil pump after line changes or running empty..........can someone confirm?

The oil pump line is the one with the filter on it, it was primed after the oil and line change was done. The line that is not full is the return line from the crank case. It returns to the top of the oil tank, which is higher than the motor, hence not enough pressure (oil in tank) to get it back to the tank.

Today a mechanic suggested that perhaps my tank and/or baffle may cause a change in my fuel color but that it would not effect the fuel octane. He also said that my symptoms may be the result of bad crank seal(s). Is it worth tearing into the engine to replace all that involved with that?
 
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