Help starting a 94 SPi. Milky oily mix coming out of exhaust.

[thetered]

I have a 94 SPi that hasn't been ran in 3 years. It had the old grey fuel lines so I replaced all those so they are new now and all new gas. The smaller of the two oil inlet hoses that are about 3/32" was broken so I replaced it also.

I am sure the carb will need to be cleaned, but I was anxious to turn it over so I tried to start it first.

It wouldn't turn over at first so I poured a very little bit of gas/oil mix in the carb and it fired right up, ran for about 3-4 min. Very smokey which I figured was normal for sitting so long, and the water pouring out the back had a rainbow sheen to it, figured still so far so good. Then it died. I let it cool down for about 15-20 and then started it again (having to prime the carb again) and it ran for about 1-2 min before it died on its own, but this time it started pouring a milky brown oily mixture with the water out the exhaust.

It was then that I realized I forgot to bleed the oil line I replaced so I backed out the screw to bleed, but this time again it wouldn't start till I primed it but instead of running for even a min or so it died pretty quickly. So I'm thinking it isn't getting fuel properly and is dying as soon as it burns off what I primed it with.

So my next project is the carb.... but I'm a little concerned with the milky brown oil mix that started to come out of the exhaust. Is this something I should be concerned with, or possibly just "normal" for a seadoo that has sat idle for so long?

 

[OldSchool]

I have a 94 SPi that hasn't been ran in 3 years. It had the old grey fuel lines so I replaced all those so they are new now and all new gas. The smaller of the two oil inlet hoses that are about 3/32" was broken so I replaced it also.

I am sure the carb will need to be cleaned, but I was anxious to turn it over so I tried to start it first.

It wouldn't turn over at first so I poured a very little bit of gas/oil mix in the carb and it fired right up, ran for about 3-4 min. Very smokey which I figured was normal for sitting so long, and the water pouring out the back had a rainbow sheen to it, figured still so far so good. Then it died. I let it cool down for about 15-20 and then started it again (having to prime the carb again) and it ran for about 1-2 min before it died on its own, but this time it started pouring a milky brown oily mixture with the water out the exhaust.

It was then that I realized I forgot to bleed the oil line I replaced so I backed out the screw to bleed, but this time again it wouldn't start till I primed it but instead of running for even a min or so it died pretty quickly. So I'm thinking it isn't getting fuel properly and is dying as soon as it burns off what I primed it with.

So my next project is the carb.... but I'm a little concerned with the milky brown oil mix that started to come out of the exhaust. Is this something I should be concerned with, or possibly just "normal" for a seadoo that has sat idle for so long?

Where exactly did you run this at? On the water?

The case was likely flooded with injector oil, but get it on the water and run it good. The 580's always did that.

You need to clean the works, carb, fuel selector, everything that had a grey hose hooked to it. 3 years is a long time for that carb to sit also.

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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

You can mix oil with the fuel as well, until you're confident the oiling system is working properly.

Yep on refreshing the carb(s) and fuel system thoroughly BEFORE taking it to the lake, and you know to turn on flush water supply AFTER starting engine and turn off flush water BEFORE shutting off engine to avoid flooding engine with water in the exhaust system. Otherwise an engine with water inside the crankcase and cylinders will rust internally in a short period, like overnight.

 

[OldSchool]

You can mix oil with the fuel as well, until you're confident the oiling system is working properly.

Yep on refreshing the carb(s) and fuel system thoroughly BEFORE taking it to the lake, and you know to turn on flush water supply AFTER starting engine and turn off flush water BEFORE shutting off engine to avoid flooding engine with water in the exhaust system. Otherwise an engine with water inside the crankcase and cylinders will rust internally in a short period, like overnight.

I was hoping he had that flush process down.

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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yeah, he probably does but I thought: Hey, why not just throw that in just in case.... Since he's going to tear through the fuel system, that means the thing will be setting for a few days while he's working out the details and if there's water inside during, then, well, I can just imagine how that might go...

 

[thetered]

Thanks for the ideas, I didn't even think about the fuel selector... is that just the red knob on the side that the hoses go to?
And yeah, the hull was full of freaking oil because when I tried to bleed the oil system the screw fell out and I lost it and oil just kept pouring out, I went and bought a stainless screw for it. So that makes me feel better about the oil I didn't think about it and tomorrow I am gonna suck it all out.

I do know to start the engine before and after shutting it off... but it died both times so it was just a quick dash to kill the water.

Thanks again for the tips, the idea of taking the carb off myself and cleaning it is overwhelming me, but I just need to quick worrying and do it... It was the same way for my outboard, I kept thinking it was gonna be harder than it was, and when I finally did it, I was like... that was easy.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yeah, the carb is easier than it sounds. Post up your progress as you go so you don't miss something. The service manuals are really good too, everyone should have theirs to work from.

 

[thetered]

Thanks again. Well I've got the bolts off the carb and ready to pull it, but I have the choke cable and the oil pump cable still attached and cant figure out how to take off. Can I safely take off the spring loaded thing the throttle cable connects to (don't know it's name)? The bolt there is easy enough to get to, but I'm afraid with it having a tension spring that I might be opening up a can of worms trying to get it back on and correct. Any advice?

 

[OldSchool]

Yeah, he probably does but I thought: Hey, why not just throw that in just in case.... Since he's going to tear through the fuel system, that means the thing will be setting for a few days while he's working out the details and if there's water inside during, then, well, I can just imagine how that might go...

Heck yes...

Watched a neighbor bring home a pair of 1996 GTXs and literally start running water through them like it was a stern drive on a set of ears. He tried cranking them both after running water into each one and you know how that went.

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[OldSchool]

Thanks again. Well I've got the bolts off the carb and ready to pull it, but I have the choke cable and the oil pump cable still attached and cant figure out how to take off. Can I safely take off the spring loaded thing the throttle cable connects to (don't know it's name)? The bolt there is easy enough to get to, but I'm afraid with it having a tension spring that I might be opening up a can of worms trying to get it back on and correct. Any advice?

You're doing fine. 2mm allen goes into the hex shaped housing sideways on the choke, as if it was pointing into the center of the machine to loosen the set screw that grabs the choke rod.

You can totally remove the oil injection cable, dont worry about the spring loaded lever, but when you reattach it, it has to be preloaded and the alignment lines on the arm and the pump must match with cable attached. You should not have to remove the lever or pump to perform the service.

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