HELP! Getting jacked by hourly service rate! 2003 XPdi (LIMP MODE)

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TxToby

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Hey guys,
I just bought a 2003 XPdi with only 20.3 hours on it.... well, it's in limp mode so I took it to a seadoo dealer to do a system scan.

THE PROBLEM: The dealer reset the (dss?) computer but when you start the boat it immediately goes back into limp mode. The bigger problem is that he's telling me that the ski hasn't 'thrown a code' yet so they don't know what it is.... tap tap tap~

Are they trying to hose me on the hourly service rate to "trouble shoot" or has anyone had the same problem with a seadoo jumping back to limp mode.. and also not throwing a code?

What could it possibly be!?

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR THE INSIGHT!
 
Codes?....

He's kinda right, if there isn't a code for them to read, then they'd have to do indepth searching (costing you out the yang-yang) to find your problem.
Give a little more info if you can. When does it go into limp mode? As soon as you set out for a ride? Do you get any beeps when it goes into limp mode?
Is there anything at all showing up on your gages, no "P" code or anything? Think about everthing and anything that may help. DO NOT TAKE TO SHOP!. They will keep it and charge you an arm and a leg to find your problem. Through the process of elimination, we may be able to come to some conclusion as to why this is happening.
I'm going into the manual for you right now. But post more info if you got it!...
Oh, and I'd like to know why he reset your DESS (digital electronic security system)? He'd only need to do that if you bought a new lanyard or if there was a problem getting your 2 beeps for starting. I don't want to say that these shops are bad, but if they don't say Seadoo OEM certified, I don't go to them!..........the DESS is not your problem.
I've gone through the manual and can't find any reason for you to be in limp mode unless you have a fault code of some sort. I'm wondering now if your actually in limp mode, or do you have a safety switch stuck somewhere. I've looked everywhere and can't find a problem that just sticks out. We'll need for you to test and look for more info. Check all the fuses to our electricals and make sure you've got no bad fuese.
 
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:agree: I agree with seadoosnipe. With more info we could find your problem. Give it another look see and post back here and we'll see what we can do.
Karl
 
More info

I actually have NEVER put the ski in the water! I drove 4 hrs North to Dallas to purchase the ski this past Saturday... I show up and the owner tells me that he "changed the spark plugs" (or something like that) and the ski went into limp mode. He knocked $200 bucks off the price and told me to take it to the dealership and they would reset it. He said it was something minor.

What I do know:
The ski fires right up and runs strong (not that I ran it long- 10-15sec's max, no water hose). When you hook up the key it beeps 1 long time. I don't remember seeing anything on the dash (ie;MAINT....) but to be honest... i didn't look long. I just took it straight to the Seadoo dealer thinking that it was going to be a flick of a switch and it would be good to go.

The service manager called me back and said that it keeps going straight back into limp mode and they were going to have to dig more into the problem...

After a reading a couple of posts- I called just called the SD dealer and told them to check the voltage and also mentioned the rectifier.

With no code, how do you trouble shoot? the ski is bone stock and looks BRAND NEW.. so it's not like someone has been torking on it and cut a wire or jacked up the fuel injection system. **Scratching head....


I've seen a couple of nasty threads about SD's di's.. i'm hoping i just didn't buy someone else's nightmare!! :reddevil:


(I did buy a second key so that's prob. why they hit up the DESS)
 
I haven't seen anything bad about the DI's, I'd buy one if I was in the market. I'll take a peek in the manual and see if I can't find something that might help. Mean while maybe someone will chime in with something.

Karl
 
"blowing a fuse"

No, I didn't check fuses because the ski started and all of the gauges worked +plus I thought that the dealer would be able to just reset it to fix the problem... da-da-da-dooooum- nope.

I'm assuming that the ski only goes into limp mode when there is a potential issue that could cause a catastrophic failure? Is there a list of issues that causes Doos to pop into limp mode? That way we can work backwards!

Much thanks!
:cheers:
 
Beep....

Now, this is strange with this new information. In the manual, when you plug your DESS cap onto the post, you should get 2 short beeps. That means your lanyard has been identified as the correct one and your ready to go.
The manual says that if you get one long beep, that means either you have the wrong lanyard, salt water in your cap or a defective mpem.
You are correct about the engine and limp mode. It's designed to keep a catastrophic failure from happening to the engine if there is a failure of some kind. It minimizes the damage.
Problem is, when you go into limp mode, the info center "will" tell you why it did it. It will not go into limp mode for no reason. That's also the reason I think it may be a rev limiter problem. Which, means, it can be a MPEM problem. I"m going to do more research on it. I think there is a way to do a static test on it. I'll let you know!
 
Limp Mode

Hi everyone,
Is there a possibility that we are dealing with a "LEARNING KEY" issue?
Thanks, DAWG
 
I don't think the learning key would do that. The learning key limits the speed of the seadoo to 30 mph for first time users or rentals.
 
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Limp Mode

YO KARL,
I assumed the 30 mph for the learner key mode was achieved by turning on a rev limiter like limp mode does.

DAWG
 
Keep putting the lanyard on till you get 2 beeps, than start the ski. With the ski in limp mode is it possable to push the set button on the guages and see if that will throw a code # or a led light will lite in the guages. Try this and get back to us. This is what the manual say's to do to get a fault code. I'll keep digging in the service manual till I find something else to try.
Karl
 
I looked before I posted on the learner key.

YO KARL,
I assumed the 30 mph for the learner key mode was achieved by turning on a rev limiter like limp mode does.

DAWG

Dawg, the manual doesn't indicate anything about the learning key activating the rev limiter or puts it in limp mode to do this. I checked before I posted the reply to you. I'm still digging...
 
It looks like we can't run diagnostic codes unless you have a VCK kit ( Vehicle Communication Kit) Did you see a MAINT signal report in the information center? You need to get that first and then have it hooked up to a VCK to read the codes. The self -diagnostic codes say that 1 Beep is as seadoosnipe said ...the safety lanyard isn't the correct one, or the post is dirty, or bad connection between the cap and the post. I'll keep digging...
 
It was just a thought. I'm not sure how the L.K. system works. Anyway.....
I also am having a real hard time with the ski going into limp mode but the display isn't saying anything. Something also seems wrong that a dealer says it keeps going BACK into limp mode in front of their very eyes and can't explain why. It's one thing to have a hard time diagnosing something because you can't duplicate the complaint. They have the ski.......it's in limp mode.....
they can't diagnose it? Somethin' ain't right!!
DAWG
 
this is the only thing I could find by the most respected sedoo mechanic I have ever known besides dawg and seadoosnipe but remember I only been in to seadoo's for 2 months so that does not say a hole lot. Sometimes a dealership programmer is necessary to clear codes.

But try unplugging the battery and replugging it, that will clear some codes on some models after replacing the bad parts. I know it is not much help but may be you can unplug battery and replug it and say a prayer somewhere in between. good luck
 
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The mpem will store codes until the VCK( Vehicle Communication Kit) removes them from the mpem(multi Purpose Electronic Module) removing the connection from the battery won't clear the codes.

I'm still digging....
 
It looks like it could be 16 different things that could trigger a limp home mode. All about sensors. In all cases the Info center indicates MAINT... and the led is lit and beeps a code.
 
Fuses?....

That's exacty why I've asked to check the fuses. If his fuse is out in his info center, then he'd not know what the fault code is. But if he had it at a shop, then that should have been the first thing the mechanic checked.
The other thing here is, if there is no fault code, (which by the way Karl, you don't need the VCK to find out whether or not you have a fault, you only need the VCK to correct the fault), then you aren't in limp mode. There is something limiting your throttle response to only allow you a low rpm range. If you were in limp mode, you'd positively have something in the info center to let you know to get it to the shop cause something has gone wrong.
There is one thing I'm trying to determine. The only problems we've seen in the forum to the DI models is problems in the compressor. The RFI (Rotax fuel injected) are a very simple injection system in that the fuel is injected in an area of low pressure in the cylinder.
The DI (direct injected) system delivers fuel into the high pressure side of the piston, using a compressor to add air to create a swirling mixture for combustion. So here, I'm wondering if there is a problem in your compressor that's not being sensed by your engine management system.
Oh, BTW, the learning key does work with the mpem to control the horsepower output by limiting rpm's.........
 
I will go by the dealership tomorrow at lunch and school these guys with a cheat sheet of your recommendations in my pocket!! “Damn dude, drop the wrench, move out of the way, now let’s check 1,2,3,4…” LOL

Now that I think about it.. maybe it did beep twice quickly before the long beep… (scratching head) but I didn’t see any codes or “MAINT” displayed in the information center. . The dealer hooked it up to, in their words, the “big computer” (ie: Big hourly fee). My assumption is that if the code was displayed in the dash that it would definitely show up on the computer? How could they not see a code? Hell I don’t even know how they know it’s in limp mode (does it say?).

If it was the fuel compressor & was not picked up by the engine mgmt system.. why is it running so cleanly- it purrrrrs!? (*again, i havne't had it in the water yet)

It seems that if it were a key issue the ski wouldn't start and if it were a fuse- it would either cut power to the information center or would keep the ski from starting all together? If it got hot then went into limp mode...or bad battery... This is all confusing because the ski fires up immediately and runs STRONG. It’s in mint condition so it doesn’t make sense that whatever is causing this issue shouldn’t be more obvious :)


I don't know why the "seadoo" dealership can't figure it out... I bet they haven't really done any testing yet. I'm thinking that they just looked at it for 10 minutes, couldn't figure it out, and now it's sitting in service line for who knows how long... Sucks because the weather is high 70's and clear this weekend!!

I'm a total rookie. You guys are the experts and have thrown out some VERY useful info... I can't wait to get to the bottom of this... and of course post all of the results for the next poor DI-GUY! :hurray:
 
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UPDATE: Talked to the previous owner

I just talked to the previous owner. This guy is very honest and was actually a service tech at a SD dealership before he left for college.

Bottom line: he said that the ski never had one issue (ever) until one hour before I picked it up. He swapped out the spark plugs and then it started the limp mode bs. I think that might be a place to start and work backwards?

but, if it was bad plugs.. why would it start & run so strong?
How could plugs affect the system like that?

He also mentioned that if disconnecting the battery cables, resetting the ski, and changing the plugs didn't work.. that I need to have them run a fuel pressure volume test.


Any ideas?
 
Getting jacked?

Toby, it seems like your well on your way to understanding how your ski and the Rotax engine works. But your still missing a couple important points.
1. There are several fuses in your electrical boxes that control many things in your pwc. The fuse I wanted to make sure was good, was the info center panel. Well, in your post, you say that your getting info center identifications, so it can't be that fuse. The reason is because if it went into limp mode, the ino center would show some type of warning that something has happened and your in limp mode. It's a system set up on the ski to keep you from being stranded on the water, but not allow to many rpm to cause significant damage to the internal or sub system components to your Doo.
2. The reason I mentioned the fuel compressor is because out of all the members on the forum who have your model pwc, that seems to be the only real problem anyone is having. You ask how it could run so smoothly then. Well, if the compressor is rolling over with the engine, you'll get a start and it'll idle over smooth. But if you open the throttle and the response is to give it more fuel, if the compressor isn't working correctly, it can't give it what your asking for. I would think a sensor would tell you this though.
3. And the all caps is to show exclamation and not "hollering". YOUR NOT IN LIMP MODE. There is no way you can be in limp mode without there being a reason for it. If there is a reason for it, then it will be in your info center. You would know that your in limp mode and you'd be able to easily find out!...
4. Your DESS cap. You need to know how many beeps your getting. That is very important at this point. When you put that cap on, the MPEM goes into self diagnostic before giving you the two short audible beeps to allow you to start. And I do agree with you. The mpem must be programmed, or you’d not get a start at all. You say your running smoothly, just no acceleration.

In talking about problems you could be experiencing to keep you from gaining full performance, there are tests you can perform your self with a couple simple tools. The first things I’d check would be in the fuel system. The fuel pump, when the cap is attached, is suppose to run for at lest 2 seconds to build pressure. That fuel pressure is 107 psi. The air pressure regulator is suppose to regulate at 80 psi. Have you checked your inline fuel filter? Having crud in the filter could cause a restriction to fuel flow.

Your mpem is mounted in the front of your pwc and has several functions. It’s responsible to receive and interpret the information from all 13 sensor inputs and make those changes through your ECU (engine control module), those changes and operations to include, the fuel pump relay, the fuel injectors, direct injectors, RAVE solenoid, starter solenoid, ignition, beeper, information center and communication port. If the changes can’t be made and it’s necessary for you to take it to the Seadoo Dealer, it will tell you by flashing “Maint”in your info center and if necessary, put you in limp mode.

To keep from making this post any longer, I’m going to finish by saying, “you seem like your a bit mechanically inclined. You can do a lot of troubleshooting, testing and even repairing your own pwc. If you become a premium member, you’d have complete access to our library and the specific manual to your 947 DI motor, that I’m reading right now”. Me or anyone else in this forum can’t provide you with a complete guide to troubleshooting your craft without your help. That help is attainable through this forum. I feel 99.9% sure we can find your problem through the process of elimination, but a repair shop can keep it for days, weeks and even months while the bills add up just for them to come to you and say “well, we’ve checked all we could and can’t find anything wrong with it. Oh yeah, your bill is $1247 dollars for our labor and use of the VCK and B.U.D.S. software”.

So you have a choice…….leave it in the shop, where you have no idea what kind of certification these guys have and what they are capable of; or you can bring it home, put it in your living room with a blanket over her to keep her warm and let us go over this thing from bottom to top and test all the possible systems that could be causing this (I bet) simple problem. Like I said, if it were a major problem, you’d see it in your info center and there would have been a “P” code generated for them (supposedly qualified mechanics) to find. The “P” code and fault system code is easy for any mechanic with the right tools to diagnose and easy for you to determine that you’ve got a problem. Do you see one? No, you’ve expressed that you don’t!.........

Sorry for the long post, but I do have a thing for repair shops who know you are at their mercy and if you want it bad enough, you’ll pay them handsomely. Mind you, not all repair shops are like that. There are some trustworthy shops in our country. But I fear, not many……………….again, sorry for the long post………….:rant:
 
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Long post? Shoot- I feel like i just finished Seadoo School! A four line response would have done nothing to help me understand and work through the process! So- thanks

If i pick it up from the dealer i wont have the computer to clear the
codes... but at this rate they're not doing jack anyway. I'm going out there at lunch today and I'm going stand over and see if I can't get her to the front of the line!

What tool do I need to check the fuel pressure? Where can I buy one?
 
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