Getting jacked?
Toby, it seems like your well on your way to understanding how your ski and the Rotax engine works. But your still missing a couple important points.
1. There are several fuses in your electrical boxes that control many things in your pwc. The fuse I wanted to make sure was good, was the info center panel. Well, in your post, you say that your getting info center identifications, so it can't be that fuse. The reason is because if it went into limp mode, the ino center would show some type of warning that something has happened and your in limp mode. It's a system set up on the ski to keep you from being stranded on the water, but not allow to many rpm to cause significant damage to the internal or sub system components to your Doo.
2. The reason I mentioned the fuel compressor is because out of all the members on the forum who have your model pwc, that seems to be the only real problem anyone is having. You ask how it could run so smoothly then. Well, if the compressor is rolling over with the engine, you'll get a start and it'll idle over smooth. But if you open the throttle and the response is to give it more fuel, if the compressor isn't working correctly, it can't give it what your asking for. I would think a sensor would tell you this though.
3. And the all caps is to show exclamation and not "hollering". YOUR NOT IN LIMP MODE. There is no way you can be in limp mode without there being a reason for it. If there is a reason for it, then it will be in your info center. You would know that your in limp mode and you'd be able to easily find out!...
4. Your DESS cap. You need to know how many beeps your getting. That is very important at this point. When you put that cap on, the MPEM goes into self diagnostic before giving you the two short audible beeps to allow you to start. And I do agree with you. The mpem must be programmed, or you’d not get a start at all. You say your running smoothly, just no acceleration.
In talking about problems you could be experiencing to keep you from gaining full performance, there are tests you can perform your self with a couple simple tools. The first things I’d check would be in the fuel system. The fuel pump, when the cap is attached, is suppose to run for at lest 2 seconds to build pressure. That fuel pressure is 107 psi. The air pressure regulator is suppose to regulate at 80 psi. Have you checked your inline fuel filter? Having crud in the filter could cause a restriction to fuel flow.
Your mpem is mounted in the front of your pwc and has several functions. It’s responsible to receive and interpret the information from all 13 sensor inputs and make those changes through your ECU (engine control module), those changes and operations to include, the fuel pump relay, the fuel injectors, direct injectors, RAVE solenoid, starter solenoid, ignition, beeper, information center and communication port. If the changes can’t be made and it’s necessary for you to take it to the Seadoo Dealer, it will tell you by flashing “Maint”in your info center and if necessary, put you in limp mode.
To keep from making this post any longer, I’m going to finish by saying, “you seem like your a bit mechanically inclined. You can do a lot of troubleshooting, testing and even repairing your own pwc. If you become a premium member, you’d have complete access to our library and the specific manual to your 947 DI motor, that I’m reading right now”. Me or anyone else in this forum can’t provide you with a complete guide to troubleshooting your craft without your help. That help is attainable through this forum. I feel 99.9% sure we can find your problem through the process of elimination, but a repair shop can keep it for days, weeks and even months while the bills add up just for them to come to you and say “well, we’ve checked all we could and can’t find anything wrong with it. Oh yeah, your bill is $1247 dollars for our labor and use of the VCK and B.U.D.S. software”.
So you have a choice…….leave it in the shop, where you have no idea what kind of certification these guys have and what they are capable of; or you can bring it home, put it in your living room with a blanket over her to keep her warm and let us go over this thing from bottom to top and test all the possible systems that could be causing this (I bet) simple problem. Like I said, if it were a major problem, you’d see it in your info center and there would have been a “P” code generated for them (supposedly qualified mechanics) to find. The “P” code and fault system code is easy for any mechanic with the right tools to diagnose and easy for you to determine that you’ve got a problem. Do you see one? No, you’ve expressed that you don’t!.........
Sorry for the long post, but I do have a thing for repair shops who know you are at their mercy and if you want it bad enough, you’ll pay them handsomely. Mind you, not all repair shops are like that. There are some trustworthy shops in our country. But I fear, not many……………….again, sorry for the long post………….:rant: