• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

~~help ELECTRONIC??-- 5amp fuse blows when stator is plugged in.

Status
Not open for further replies.
I

Iceman2017

Member
So here's the story, bought a 1997 GSI with VTS to restore. PO says it has electrical problem.

Bought a new battery, and still no sound, no nothing, key or no key.

HERES WHAT IVE DONE:

Checked all fuses on MPEM; all good.

Checked Ebox and I found a blown 10 amp fuse in the 15 amp fuse slot in the electrical box next to the battery...so I replaced with correct 15 amp fuse and as soon as I replaced the fuse the 5 amp on MPEM BLOWS.

I replaced the 5 amp fuse on MPEM and it just keeps blowing instantly as soon at the fuse contacts the MPEM, with or without key on post.

Started unplugging stuff and testing:

VTS unplugged, 5 amp still blows immediately upon replacing it on the MPEM.

Unplugged Stator (at least i think it's the stator, see photo
110.jpg

5 amp in MPEM is OK as long as it stays unplugged. Immediately upon plugging in stator the 5 amp blows.

Is the MPEM bad? Or is it the stator? Help is greatly appreciated.

111.jpg
5A FUSE THAT KEEPS BLOWING IS THE yellow one, 2ND FROM BOTTOM, above the last blue fuse.
 
I would lead to a short in the stator. It is testable. I'll see if I can find the test for you.
 
I tried some ohm tests (with negative battery cable removed and Positive cable hooked to battery) but really don't know what I'm doing. Maybe someone can look at my readings below and give some guidance.

The stator plug has 4 pins, Yellow/Black, Yellow, Red/Black, and Black

My Ohm tester has (positive) and (negative) set to read at 200ohm

My results:

Yellow/black (positive) and Yellow (negative) read a bunch of random ohm numbers

Yellow/black (negative) and Yellow (positive) reads about 2.1 - 4.1

black/red (positive) and Black (negative) read about 63.0

Black/red (negative) and black (positive) reads a bunch of random numbers

Engine ground (negative) to Black/Red positive about 61.1

Engine ground (negative) to Black (positive) a bunch of random numbers
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Iceman2017 said:
I tried some ohm tests (with negative battery cable removed and Positive cable hooked to battery) but really don't know what I'm doing. Maybe someone can look at my readings below and give some guidance.

The stator plug has 4 pins, Yellow/Black, Yellow, Red/Black, and Black

My Ohm tester has (positive) and (negative) set to read at 200ohm

My results:

Yellow/black (positive) and Yellow (negative) read a bunch of random ohm numbers

Yellow/black (negative) and Yellow (positive) reads about 2.1 - 4.1

black/red (positive) and Black (negative) read about 63.0

Black/red (negative) and black (positive) reads a bunch of random numbers

Engine ground (negative) to Black/Red positive about 61.1

Engine ground (negative) to Black (positive) a bunch of random numbers
Click to expand...

I hate to break it to you but the 5 amp fuse instantly blowing usually means the MPEM is fried.

The reason it only blows when you hook up the stator is because that is where it gets it's ground at, when you plug up the stator you are completing the circuit to ground.
.
 
Thanks [MENTION=75495]wfo speedracer[/MENTION]

So does that mean I likely can replace the diode in the MPEM to fix my problem?
 
Have you checked the pick up for metal chips? It could be shorting out I had the same issue
And Bill O told me to check for chips and he was right.
He's the sea doo master.
 
Unplug the rectifier, then see if amp blows. I would also do what was mentioned and check for metal debris, grounding out the stator... From starter bendix
 
Still happens with rectifier unplugged. As far as looking for debris,,,, Where exactly do I check for metal chips? Do I actually remove the metal housing cover where the stator is? Is that the starter bendix?
 
azsxr said:
Yes pull the cover and look around the pick up
Click to expand...

The 720 stator is nothing like an 800/951 stator. In order to inspect metal debris in a 720 mag housing, you'll have to remove the cover to expose the flywheel. Only then, you'll have to remove the flywheel to inspect the stator
 
In order to inspect the stator for debris, you'll have to remove the flywheel. It's nothing like a 800/951 stator/pickup assy
 
Iceman2017 said:
So here's the story, bought a 1997 GSI with VTS to restore. PO says it has electrical problem.

Bought a new battery, and still no sound, no nothing, key or no key.

HERES WHAT IVE DONE:

Checked all fuses on MPEM; all good.

Checked Ebox and I found a blown 10 amp fuse in the 15 amp fuse slot in the electrical box next to the battery...so I replaced with correct 15 amp fuse and as soon as I replaced the fuse the 5 amp on MPEM BLOWS.

I replaced the 5 amp fuse on MPEM and it just keeps blowing instantly as soon at the fuse contacts the MPEM, with or without key on post.

Started unplugging stuff and testing:

VTS unplugged, 5 amp still blows immediately upon replacing it on the MPEM.

Unplugged Stator (at least i think it's the stator, see photo
110.jpg

5 amp in MPEM is OK as long as it stays unplugged. Immediately upon plugging in stator the 5 amp blows.

Is the MPEM bad? Or is it the stator? Help is greatly appreciated.

111.jpg
5A FUSE THAT KEEPS BLOWING IS THE yellow one, 2ND FROM BOTTOM, above the last blue fuse.
Click to expand...

With an ohm meter, check for continuity between the 5 amp fuse and each of the black wires coming from the MPEM. If there is continuity, replace the MPEM.

Chester
 
Onemore thing that is an aftermarket MPEM you have in there, no one I know of has ever had luck with those, a new or used OEM MPEM should fix you right up.
 
wfo speedracer said:
Onemore thing that is an aftermarket MPEM you have in there, no one I know of has ever had luck with those, a new or used OEM MPEM should fix you right up.
Click to expand...


Oh wow! How can you tell?? I assumed it was oem since it says Bombardier Made in Canada on it ?

Also I dug out the silicon rubber stuff and found the little diode I've read about, I ordered a replacement diode and will give it a shot next week when it arrives...if that doesn't work then I guess I'll have to buy a new MPEM.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Great work Iceman. You mind posting a pic of your work on the mpem? I have a few worth your exact problem.
 
Iceman2017 said:
Oh wow! How can you tell?? I assumed it was oem since it says Bombardier Made in Canada on it ?

Also I dug out the silicon rubber stuff and found the little diode I've read about, I ordered a replacement diode and will give it a shot next week when it arrives...if that doesn't work then I guess I'll have to buy a new MPEM.
Click to expand...

You are right that is OEM, something about that pic looked funny earlier, maybe it's just me.

You can replace that diode and it will be fine, the last one I did I used Right stuff to seal it all back up with, only thing to be careful of is making sure the diode goes in the correct way.
 
dieselndoo said:
Great work Iceman. You mind posting a pic of your work on the mpem? I have a few worth your exact problem.
Click to expand...

No prob, here's a photo of the progress so far, I'm waiting on the diode to arrive in mail before I unsolder and replace, but I have the hard part done for now. *it looks very sloppy because I used a hot knife on the top trying to peel the plastic to the sides thinking I might be able to melt it back over top after I finish the replacement, haha. Probably should have just cut a clean rectangle though. Probably will look ok though after I melt it back and add sealant.

4c07c71e1ee18d527bc86b7faa93c355.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
wfo speedracer said:
You are right that is OEM, something about that pic looked funny earlier, maybe it's just me.

You can replace that diode and it will be fine, the last one I did I used Right stuff to seal it all back up with, only thing to be careful of is making sure the diode goes in the correct way.
Click to expand...

Ah, ok, thanks, you had me baffled for a moment! I'll be sure to put it in correctly, I'm pretty good with electronics, but have a lot to learn about engine mechanics. I'll get some right stuff, I have black 100% silicon that I was going to use but maybe right stuff will be better?
 
Iceman2017 said:
Ah, ok, thanks, you had me baffled for a moment! I'll be sure to put it in correctly, I'm pretty good with electronics, but have a lot to learn about engine mechanics. I'll get some right stuff, I have black 100% silicon that I was going to use but maybe right stuff will be better?
Click to expand...

The right stuff dries harder more like rubber, it is a much closer match to the original than silicone. usually you cut around the back side of the sealant with a razor blade , drill a small hole through the front . pop some compressed air at it and the whole potted board will separate from the case, then do the repairs repott it and put it back in the case, that way no one would ever know it had been repaired.
 
Well the great new is the diode fixed the problem, we now have power!!

Bad news, when I press the start button all I hear is a single thud-like "click" almost sounding like the starter try's to spin once and then gets stuck. Every time I press the start button it just does a single strong click and nothing else. Anyone have any idea what this would mean?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

B
97 spx 800 died
Replies
4
Views
199
Bloodzxpoison
B
D
'98 Gts blown fuse ??
Replies
0
Views
79
dlginla
D
1
96 XP blowing 7.5 amp fuse and no power
Replies
4
Views
176
Stevie96xp
Stevie96xp
S
1997 Sportster 1800 MPEM Diode location
Replies
1
Views
135
SolidMapex
S
AK_Gearhead_96
1995 SeaDoo Speedster Keeps Blowing 15amp Charging System Fuse
Replies
0
Views
101
AK_Gearhead_96
AK_Gearhead_96
Back
Top