HELP! - 98 Speedster I missed up big time!! MPEM may be gone :(

[diabloflash]

HELP! - 98 Speedster I missed up big time!! MPEM may be gone ** SOLVED**!!!!

98 Speedster went to put in speakers and started cutting out the holes and end up cutting through the wiring harness....
Wow I feel stupid... I split half the wires and the main power was on.

I turned off the main.

I reconnected the slit wires with solder and shrink wrap.

2 fuses were popped Mpem(1) and the gauge(2) replaced

now the boat doesn't start, doesn't even turn over
I connect the key no beeps... before it beeped twice.
if I push the start button 5 times I get 1 short beep then one long beep then nothing...

Any hiding fuses or something I can check to see if I burn out the Mpem. maybe something with the key?

So Sad

 

[ialonso]

At least there is a beep, that's hopeful.

You should follow the MPEM DESS post cables and make sure those have good contact in your splice...look for that double beep when you seat the DESS key.

Also, look for the beep if you set the level back on neutral.

If you can't get a beep back when you seat the key, with everything connected back correctly, it may be fried as you suggest.

 

[snikwad003]

You need your wiring diagram and a ohm meter. Check that you have no shorts, open circuits, or high resistance. As ialonso said you have a beep so you have something. You get beep on the 5 presses, so your start/stop circuit should be good

 

[ORION '95 Speedster]

I would check to see if the motor will crank over if ya hot wire it, and see if there is spark. (All with the key on).

 

[diabloflash]

Best way to hot wire it?

 

[Coastiejoe]

You can't "hot wire" an MPEM in any easy fashion. You can crank the engine easily, but spark is more challenging.

 

[snikwad003]

Until you get 2 beeps youre gonna get nothing. You could find the wires for the dess at the mpem and de-pin it and put the dess post straight to the mpem and try it to eliminate the damage to the wiring harness as your problem but since you can run the self test from the 5 start/stop presses your mpem isnt totaly fried

 

[ORION '95 Speedster]

Turn key on, and supply power to the starter. There is an electrical box that will allow easy access to the starter wire, or strip the coating off of the starter wire and supply power with jumper cables. Obviously you would tape up the stripped insulation after the test. The purpose of this test is to see if the basic engine electrical is working at all. If you don't get spark, then you have some major electrical issues. If you do get spark, then you probably have a basic electrical problem, like 1 bad wire.

 

[snikwad003]

The op's boat has DESS, with it not functioning there will be no spark

 

[ORION '95 Speedster]

This test will provide information.

 

[snikwad003]

No it wont, jumping the starter solenoid will make the engine turn over and that is all. If the mpem does not see the lanyard on the dess post it will not spark, ever. The circuit for the stop/start button works because he is able to get self test. Bottom line is no DESS, no run.

 

[ocod]

This test will provide information.

No it wont, jumping the starter solenoid will make the engine turn over and that is all. If the mpem does not see the lanyard on the dess post it will not spark, ever. The circuit for the stop/start button works because he is able to get self test. Bottom line is no DESS, no run.

/Thread. Thats it!


@Minnetonka4me @Matt Braley
[MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION]

Any of them will get on the right track.

 

[ORION '95 Speedster]

I understand what you are saying snikwad003. If everything is working the way we expect it to, there will not be any spark. The test is to CONFIRM that there is no spark. If the beeper says there wont be spark, but the test shows there is spark, then we need to work the problem from a different angle.

 

[ORION '95 Speedster]

This test will also confirm that the starter is working, which would be useful to know.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

If you are able to crank the motors with the button on the dash you should have spark. The beepers are flakey and have nothing to do with it.

 

[ocod]

I understand what you are saying snikwad003. If everything is working the way we expect it to, there will not be any spark. The test is to CONFIRM that there is no spark. If the beeper says there wont be spark, but the test shows there is spark, then we need to work the problem from a different angle.

This test will also confirm that the starter is working, which would be useful to know.

Makes more sense now and helps clarify your statement for OP and anyone else that follow along.

That's why you don't want to lose your keys on the water!
That DESS cuts you both ways.
BTW is you want a extra key Minnetonka4me does them for around 30 bucks jik you want a spare

 

[racerxxx]

There are more fuses in the back of the boat (don't remember what for), not on the MPEM. They're hanging there in black fuse holders with red wires going into them. I think there are also fuses in the coil boxes, check those

I hate to say it but the first rule of ANY electrical work it to disconnect the power source, Home, Marine, Auto anything electrical.

This could be up to an $1800 stereo on top of the cost of the stereo. These MPEM's are't just laying around.

The short then long beep confirms your in advanced diag. You would then put the DESS on the post and push either starter button. If all is good that engine would start. But it seems like you still have issues.


Put the control handle in F or R and put the lanyard on and try and start it, it should beep 4 times warning you your in gear.


Here is a little of the testing

Boat in neutral lanyard off
Press EITHER start button 5 times
You should get one short and 1 long beep
Now put the lanyard on
Now press either start button

If everything is correct that engine should start

If not report the following:

No beeps but engine starts= everything is fine

1 long and 1 short = no lanyard programmed to the MPEM= see your dealer to have a key programmed

2 short beeps = MPEM cannot read the electronic circuit in safety lanyard or the magnet is defective in safety lanyard or Mixed wires at switch connectors or wrong connections.= Replace lanyard with a new one (must be programmed) or check the wiring for the post or replace the DESS post with a new one (no programming required)

2 long beeps = Wrong safety lanyard or wrong connection of the DESS wires.= You have the wrong lanyard (one from a different ski/boat)

3 short beeps = Wiring harness of DESS post is grounded or there is a short circuit. = Inspect wiring to DESS post

 

[diabloflash]

Computers seems to alive to be fried.

Tests
Battery good
All fuse and wires
start button 5 times - one short and 1 long beep. Nothing else ( No Codes )
After start button is press gas gauge comes on and Computer stay on for 30 seconds.
In gear F or R no beeps at all.

The key is not sensed at all ~! on or off does nothing. Is it possible for the DESS post shot?

 

[racerxxx]

Possible. I can't give you the procedure right now, but you can ohm the switch with a meter. Google test seadoo dess post seadooforum and that should return results on here. I know we have discussed it several times before here. Sorry, at work can't really post

 

[snikwad003]

I do think you have dess problem but I doubt messing up the harness broke the dess post, check the dess post wires in the splice, possible you crossed one up or a soilder joint is causing high resistance etc

 

[diabloflash]

YES YES YES!!!! THank you racerxxx you save my butt and about 1800$$ computer mistake!!
OMG SO HAPPY !!!!!

With a voltage meter and the wiring diagram I was able to figure out that the Dess port is the part that was fried thank god and not the computer and how to make a broken/fried Dess post work temporally!!

I GOT 2 BEEPS AND ENGINEs TURN OVER!!!

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO HAPPY Thank you everyone!!!

 

[Burro]

Can someone supply with the wiring diagram and how to diagnose dess or lanyard cap problem ? I changed batteries and getting no beeps and start buttons do nothing

 

[Coastiejoe]

Can someone supply with the wiring diagram and how to diagnose dess or lanyard cap problem ? I changed batteries and getting no beeps and start buttons do nothing

Here is a cut and paste from an earlier post..

1. Solid black wire is a dedicated ground
2. Black wire w/yellow tracer is the return path to ground for the MPEM that supplies ground back to the DESS portion of the module
3. White wire w/grey tracer is your Maxim protocol one wire low voltage communication circuit to the module that allows the protocol to execute the function of slave / master from both the module DESS feature and 64 bit security code stored in the Dallas Semiconductor IC chip in the lanyard cap.


The DESS post is a reed switch, your lanyard contains a magnet and when placed on the post it completes the circuit between the solid black and black w/yellow trace. The presence of a ground back to the module on the Blk/Ylw allows the module to read the code stored in the lanyards ROM chip that is pre-programmed to the MPEM memory. When it recognises the security code it unlocks the ignition circuit and pulses the beeper to give you a thumbs up.

To test the post, unplug it and remove it to your bench it's easier to probe everything that way. You should have continuity from the solid black wire to the metal ring on the outside shoulder of the post all the time. You should also have continuity from the white w/grey trace wire to the small contact on the very top center of the post all the time.

With the key off the post, you should have no continuity between the black and black w/yellow wires, with the key placed on the post that should complete the circuit and show continuity between them with little to no resistance.

There are a few things you can do to test the key itself, clean it first with a q-tip dipped in alcohol and make sure the two side and one top contacts are in place and clean.

You should see continuity between both of the ground contacts in the side body of the key, and using the red test lead on either of the side ground contacts and the black test lead on the top center contact you should see less than 10 ohms of resistance on the IC serial chip.

I find any more than 10 ohms on the IC chip usually causes intermittent or complete failure of the key to work properly with a MPEM module, my shop version of Candoo Pro will read keys up to about 20 ohms of resistance and program them to modules every time but the MPEM won't recognise them reliably in normal operation.