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Got it running but now this. Carb question and others. Please help

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Clivingston

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Port motor won't go past 3500 after running for 25 mins.

Right tach won't work.

Best way to fix leak leak coming from thru hull on weedless gates?

Carbs and acc pumps just rebuilt last week. Problem happen during break in procedure. The motor will not go past 3500 now.

Will call shop tom trying to get second opinion
 
There's a rev limit for both motors in neutral position. If one cylinder isn't firing motor won't rev. and will feel rough with low idle.

Measure running voltage at battery, regulator/rectifier unit can cause ignition system malfunction and battery voltage might be rising too high after 25 minutes it's overcharged and voltage shoots up.. Or temporarily pull red output wire off the regulator to disable the charging system and see if performance returns to normal. If yes, charging system fault (likely defective R/R).
 
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Check R/R by pulling red wire, still won't rev?

Swap in good plugs, one's fouled?

Compression test.

I never run WOT more than for a short blast, IMO WOT eats motors... FWIW.
 
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You should ave two RR's I think one on each motor has three yellow wires from magneto housing red wire and possibly black wire. Red is output of RR, if RR is defective pushing voltage up too high ignition malfunction will occur.

Pull both red wires to test simultaneously, or one at a time and still keep one charging circuit battery won't discharge if one is working you can still ride all day.
 
#8 in the lower left it the Regulator/Rectifier (R/R as Sportster calls it). You can just disconnect one wire, they're in a plug. So just disconnect the plug on the engine that is giving you issues. It should be mounted off the side of the mag housing. Disconnect the connector with the red wire.


59.jpg






Here is what you're looking for



60.jpg
 
As far as the leak goes....just silicone the the exit point inside the pump tunnel. I never use mine. I'll also assume that the plastic seal nut is broken, that you might not realize and the seal is shot. You can get aluminum nuts to have better longevity.


#9 is probably broken in half--typical. That keeps tension on the seal. There was a guy on Ebay selling them, they were black and made from aluminum. Later skis use them. But it looks like OSDparts .com has a kit.



http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=595_602_7&products_id=8903





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Kit pics for the weedless system







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Idle out of water is about 3K, so when you're in water ant the impeller is under a water load it drops to roughly 1500 rpm
 
Does it sound like this when my boat is stuttering?


[video=youtube;Zoxqd7HMlto]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zoxqd7HMlto[/video]
 
Does it sound like this when my boat is stuttering?


[video=youtube;Zoxqd7HMlto]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zoxqd7HMlto[/video]
 
Sounds like that when its idle. Do I need to put it in the water and try see what it does?


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If so, you can't do that. It must be in forward or reverse. There is a low speed rev limiter, like a neutral safety switch.

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Ok so water test. When cool it stalls like at 3500 but after about 30 will let go and go. WOT I'm only getting about 5500rpm. My tach on port is messed up so I'm swapping between runs. Only running 30 mins and not holding wot for longer then a few seconds. But it will only do the 5500


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Cavitating is like you're driving a manual transmission car and the clutch is worn out, the engine speeds without "hooking" with the water.

I'm not sure if you had your carbs off but I'm wondering if maybe the throttle cable is too lose and not opening the butterfies to full open? In case this is what's happening, I'll explain how I adjust the throttle cable:

First, loosen the two jamb nuts on the cable sheath at the carburetor and back them off to their respective end of threads to create space for tensioning the cable.

Place throttle control lever at full throttle stop (balls to the wall) position at the helm, and climb back into bilge.

Pull cable sheath tight while holding carburetor bell-crank to full throttle position and spin jam nuts against the sheath bracket finger-tight then use 10mm open-end wrench to lock them.

Place helm throttle to idle position and check the carb idle stop lever is resting on the idle speed adjustment screw. At this point there should be a slight only, almost imperceptible amount of slack in the inner wire of the throttle cable.

If the cable adjustment is too lose the carb butterflies might not open 90 degrees to air flow thus your engine speed will be limited.

Maybe that's the issue (misadjusted throttle cable)?

Okay, the other possibility of limited engine speed happens if the RAVE valves (ie:787 & 951 motors) aren't opening, they will build carbon on them and stick so they must be removed and cleaned periodically (~ once or maybe twice per season). Once disassembled, I use a solvent or oven cleaner to clean the carbon deposits and sticky oil varnish from the RAVE blades so they move freely in the RAVE slots.
 
Motor won't crank out of neutral so don't think it's that. Motor died and wouldn't fire back up and the throttle cable on the stb motor either broke or came loose to had to pull it out water. It seems like it hangs up and bogs down around 3500 then will free up and go past it. But only to 5500. I will check the cable as I have to fix the other motor cable as well... If that one let loose then could be the same on the other. I also need a how to carb adjustment for idiots procedure so I can fine tune if needed. I know nothing about how to or anything about these carbs.


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