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Fuel Pump Filters - Need help identifying for Dealership..!

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lamajama

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The attached pic shows 2 filters taken from my 2004 GTX Ltd Supercharged seadoo's fuel pump
assembly.

The filter on the right I have determined (I believe) to be 219700368. It's located at the bottom of
the entire assembly. Part #23..

http://parts.perryperformancegroup.com/oemparts/a/sea/500d73c8f870020908257eeb/fuel-system

The one on the left in the pic however I cannot find on any parts diagram (the filter is located inside
the fuel pump SS "tube" portion at the bottom) and the dealer says this does not exist....

Having the pump apart I would like to change both filters obviously but as the dealership (only one in area)
says that filter does not exist in their world, I wonder if anyone here has a part number or a potential
source should this filter indeed not be a figment of my imagination.

This seadoo has 68 hours on it and the pump is OEM so not an after-market filter in my opinion..but I could
be wrong. It just does not appear as if that pump was ever removed in it's life.

 
The attached pic shows 2 filters taken from my 2004 GTX Ltd Supercharged seadoo's fuel pump
assembly.

The filter on the right I have determined (I believe) to be 219700368. It's located at the bottom of
the entire assembly. Part #23..

http://parts.perryperformancegroup.com/oemparts/a/sea/500d73c8f870020908257eeb/fuel-system

The one on the left in the pic however I cannot find on any parts diagram (the filter is located inside
the fuel pump SS "tube" portion at the bottom) and the dealer says this does not exist....

Having the pump apart I would like to change both filters obviously but as the dealership (only one in area)
says that filter does not exist in their world, I wonder if anyone here has a part number or a potential
source should this filter indeed not be a figment of my imagination.

This seadoo has 68 hours on it and the pump is OEM so not an after-market filter in my opinion..but I could
be wrong. It just does not appear as if that pump was ever removed in it's life.


If you're talking about a nylon sock on the bottom of the fuel pickup assy, I'd guess there probably is one.

Depending on how the pickup and bottom of tank are configured, you might be able to match one up out of the hundreds of different types available, which are about as common as nickles, dimes and quarters but do a better job of keeping plastic, chunks sand, and all kind of junk from jamming your fuel pump.....

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=fuel+pickup+sock&_sacat=0
 
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This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
I took these filters in to the dealership and they had confused me on the descriptions...the one of the LEFT is the
219700368. It's located at the bottom of the entire assembly. Part #23..so the one on the RIGHT is the mystery part, and they
think it is inside the fuel pump assembly itself - which is why they didn't know what it was as they usually do not see it.

So mystery solved at this point but of course I cannot buy just that filter from Seadoo. :facepalm:
 
I took these filters in to the dealership and they had confused me on the descriptions...the one of the LEFT is the
219700368. It's located at the bottom of the entire assembly. Part #23..so the one on the RIGHT is the mystery part, and they
think it is inside the fuel pump assembly itself - which is why they didn't know what it was as they usually do not see it.

So mystery solved at this point but of course I cannot buy just that filter from Seadoo. :facepalm:

Correct, most likely. There are usually two socks on the venturi-well pump assembly, one "pre-filter" on the outside and another on the pump itself on the inside. Standard affair in fuel injection systems like this. At least on all of them I've ever seen(which unfortunately excludes the one you're working on right now of course).

There are also usually small rubber mushroom check valves on those, so make sure they're okay still. The venturi pump won't work to keep the large cup filled otherwise. The large cup is filled with fuel by the venturi driven by the electric pump, some don't use the mushroom valve(s) depending on how they're configured but most usually do have some type of valve, at least two of them. One to allow fuel into the cup but not out, and another in the venturi to keep fuel in the venturi.
 
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Correct, most likely. There are usually two socks on the venturi-well pump assembly, one "pre-filter" on the outside and another on the pump itself on the inside. Standard affair in fuel injection systems like this. At least on all of them I've ever seen(which unfortunately excludes the one you're working on right now of course).

Nope - it appears you are right..it's just that apparently now I cannot get an OEM replacement filter for the inside-the-assembly one.

Of course. It's usually how I roll...:banghead:
 
Nope - it appears you are right..it's just that apparently now I cannot get an OEM replacement filter for the inside-the-assembly one.

Of course. It's usually how I roll...:banghead:

Those filters are always a struggle to find, I sometimes order a few just trying to find one that will work or can be adapted to work. The one's inside the cup are often like a diaper style with no plastic frame except the grommet that attaches to the pump bottom then the nylon fabric sock wrapping up the sides. Those type don't look quite like that second pic you posted, the one you posted seems to have a plastic frame on it.

Granned I'm not familiar with your particular FP assembly, however, usually:

I think you're going to have to mix and match if BRP doesn't provide that level of detail, but be sure it's set up functionally the same, don't screw up the configuration or it might pick up air and won't keep the cup around the pump full of fuel. The cup the pump sits in should fill up with fuel(by venturi action) and actually the fuel normally fills the cup and runs over the sides while the pump is running, the pump itself stays completely submerged all the time. Some guys do wierd things to their electric FP module assy's, like drilling holes in the sides for some reason, and then wonder why their engine sputters as the tank level drops to near 1/4
 
Nope - it appears you are right..it's just that apparently now I cannot get an OEM replacement filter for the inside-the-assembly one.

Of course. It's usually how I roll...:banghead:

Those filters are always a struggle to find, I sometimes order a few just trying to find one that will work or can be adapted to work. The one's inside the cup are often like a diaper style with no plastic frame except the grommet that attaches to the pump bottom then the nylon fabric sock wrapping up the sides. Those type don't look quite like that second pic you posted, the one you posted seems to have a plastic frame on it.

Granned I'm not familiar with your particular FP assembly, however, usually:

I think you're going to have to mix and match if BRP doesn't provide that level of detail, but be sure it's set up functionally the same, don't screw up the configuration or it might pick up air and won't keep the cup around the pump full of fuel. The cup the pump sits in should fill up with fuel(by venturi action) and actually the fuel normally fills the cup and runs over the sides while the pump is running, the pump itself stays completely submerged all the time. Some guys do wierd things to their electric FP module assy's, like drilling holes in the sides for some reason, and then wonder why their engine sputters as the tank level drops to near 1/4

The venturi action will collect almost every last drop of fuel off the bottom of the tank before the fuel pump runs dry, the venturi action keeps that cup the pump sits in completely full of fuel, so it's important.
 
Do you think if I soak this OEM one in carb cleaner for a number of days it will loosen any gunk up
(without weakening the filter element) and if I carefully blow it with a compressor it will come up
enough? I am leery of monkeying around with something so vital by adding a jury-rigged fix....
 
Do you think if I soak this OEM one in carb cleaner for a number of days it will loosen any gunk up
(without weakening the filter element) and if I carefully blow it with a compressor it will come up
enough? I am leery of monkeying around with something so vital by adding a jury-rigged fix....

If anything, I'd just wash them out in gasoline and towel dry them, be careful not to get lint in them, I find lots of lint in fuel tanks for some strange reason. Gasoline is a hazardous material, so appropriate handling precautions need to be taken.

Maybe brake cleaner would work, or it might even melt them, but that could also be an option. Get a spray can of brake cleaner and try hosing the filter from inside out, I'd like to know how that works, if you try it.
 
I've sprayed it with carb cleaner at his point. The color has not changed on the filter which either means any crap
is really hardened on there or it probably needs time to loosen. I think using gas would not do much but that filter is
pretty much paper/cotton so I certainly can't use even a toothbrush to help any crud off I would think. I'll let you know what
transpires.

Thanks for the help!
 
I've sprayed it with carb cleaner at his point. The color has not changed on the filter which either means any crap
is really hardened on there or it probably needs time to loosen. I think using gas would not do much but that filter is
pretty much paper/cotton so I certainly can't use even a toothbrush to help any crud off I would think. I'll let you know what
transpires.

Thanks for the help!

Carb cleaner is just acetone, so if it didn't damage the fabric then maybe soaking overnight in a bath of acetone will help dissolve any gum. Those pours in the fabric are about 70microns, so that brown gunk might just be dirt, as opposed to fuel gum.
 
I think you're right and it might be dirt. It doesn't look like fuel gum really.

Still aggravating that you can't get one....we have a 2003 4 tec with I assume the same assembly (almost a parts
machine) so I'm going to take that one off and compare. Many more hours on that machine (IIRC) though so that filter
will probably be a lot more of an issue...
 
I may have found something close. I have sent them an email. I have bought a replacement pump for my DI from them before.

It's the "internal strainer" in the picture...

http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-90518...on-seadoo-sea-doo-gtx-di-rx-di-2000-2003.html

Now you've got me wondering if the sock would come with the replacement electric pump, quite often they're included.

These look similar to the ones in your photo:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Seadoo-RXP-...l-External-Fuel-Pump-Filter-Kit-/251294451670
 
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Now you've got me wondering if the sock would come with the replacement electric pump, quite often they're included.

These look similar to the ones in your photo:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Seadoo-RXP-...l-External-Fuel-Pump-Filter-Kit-/251294451670

When I bought the replacement pump for the DI 2 filters came with the pump.

The ones you link to look exactly like the ones I have. I would *think* that Seadoo used the same filters for more than one model
although you never know with them...

The one you link to is $64.49 and I have already ordered the OEM one ($26 with tax) and the one Griz linked me to is $10.19 +
shipping so I don't know where they come up with $64.49..!! This will total about $45 once both are paid for..

Same as the 4 tec oil change kit's. In Canada I can get the kit for about $85. I can buy the oil for about $9 quart (x4) and the
filter for $9.99. Plugs are about $9 total so buying together is about $55. WTH is it $85??

Thanks again for your help! This site is great!!
 
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
When I bought the replacement pump for the DI 2 filters came with the pump.

The ones you link to look exactly like the ones I have. I would *think* that Seadoo used the same filters for more than one model
although you never know with them...

The one you link to is $64.49 and I have already ordered the OEM one ($26 with tax) and the one Griz linked me to is $10.19 +
shipping so I don't know where they come up with $64.49..!! This will total about $45 once both are paid for..

Same as the 4 tec oil change kit's. In Canada I can get the kit for about $85. I can buy the oil for about $9 quart (x4) and the
filter for $9.99. Plugs are about $9 total so buying together is about $55. WTH is it $85??

Thanks again for your help! This site is great!!

It kinda looked like that seller had already crossed the airtex strainers, so based on the tiny photos they look identical.

Nice clean ones will keep abrasives out of your pump, so it's worth at least replacing them when they're brown and full of crap, I think. Especially with a new pump, once thery're loaded up with dirt then the pump damage is more likely.

Might even think of cleaning the tank if you can get to it, and polishing the fuel by running it through a good filter, if there's junk floating int it, sometimes it's real hard to see trash in the fuel and tank, especially when the tank is located in a bilge under a wooden deck, LOL..

I'm a carb lover, at heart. :)
 
It kinda looked like that seller had already crossed the airtex strainers, so based on the tiny photos they look identical.

Nice clean ones will keep abrasives out of your pump, so it's worth at least replacing them when they're brown and full of crap, I think. Especially with a new pump, once thery're loaded up with dirt then the pump damage is more likely.

Might even think of cleaning the tank if you can get to it, and polishing the fuel by running it through a good filter, if there's junk floating int it, sometimes it's real hard to see trash in the fuel and tank, especially when the tank is located in a bilge under a wooden deck, LOL..

I'm a carb lover, at heart. :)

This is a new-to-me machine and sitting for a year so I have already drained the old fuel. What is good to use to wipe the inside of the
tank while I have the pump assembly out? I have some rubber clamps on a 2-3 foot "pole" that would hold a cloth and could probably
reach inside and wipe the inside of the tank. Any special cloth if that idea will work?
 
This is a new-to-me machine and sitting for a year so I have already drained the old fuel. What is good to use to wipe the inside of the
tank while I have the pump assembly out? I have some rubber clamps on a 2-3 foot "pole" that would hold a cloth and could probably
reach inside and wipe the inside of the tank. Any special cloth if that idea will work?

Maybe something as low-lint as possible, microfibre or sham-wow perhaps to mop up the inside. Steam cleaning is a great way but not always practical, radiator shops are far and few between.

If the tank can be removed then a pressure washer can do a decent job. The water needs to be fairly clean though, so t's filtered.

Under deck tanks are a little more of a challenge, seems like..... (I have to polish fuel all the time b/c boat tanks get nasty dirty over the decades), by vacuuming up dirt/gink/water in a similar process similar to the way a pool sweep operates:

ie: Pickup tube/hose from tank into a polishing filter then to electric pump and return hose back to tank, sweep around inside tank to suck up tons of gobs of goo and trash, is pretty effective. Like sweeping a swimming pool.

All boats we fit up get these water separator filters automatically without question, I keep a few handy for polishing fuel:

http://content.westmarine.com/images/catalog/large/9399478.jpg

And a 12v electric fuel pump something like this, to move the fuel while vacuuming up trash and dirt from the tank bottom:

http://www.northerntool.com/images/...GONBg2hAFOXQCCrnzg&01RI=07E531215DAD86C&01NA=
 
Just an update...I received the filter and they are exact match. FYI the smaller filter is NOT available (?) from Seadoo and it's $9.99. The larger one is $22 USD $28 CDN from Seadoo and $15 on this website. Nice savings. Thanks again Grizz!

This is very good info. Matching up those sock filters isn't easy starting from scratch, and it's important to replace them every few years, IMO.
 
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