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Fuel pressure regulator
- Thread starter K Rock
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I figured I could tap the vst cover and put a hose barb on it. Then just remote mount a regulator somewhere . Other than where it goes in the tank, the rest is all self contained from what i can see. With aftermarket ones from 15 to 75 dollars I think I'll try it. I'll do a photo log, if it works I'll post it up.
It's the last part I need to find out what else I need.. lol
It's the last part I need to find out what else I need.. lol
Not to jump on thread but I have a related question. I just picked up a 2000 Challenger cheap from a friend ($1500 with trailer) took it out to the water and motor wasn't firing on all cylinders (hence why he wanted to get rid of it so cheap). I am working through the problems and noticed that the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose is shot (was totally not connected and split). I figured it was just a standard vacuum line... but I took a look online to see if they sold a custom molded line. To my shock they are listed for $240 bucks (item 8). Anyone know why? I'm assuming I can just replace it with standard vacuum line, I just need to verify the size. Thanks for the input... I have to fix this and replace the trigger as cylinders 2 & 5 have no spark. I'm hoping once I get these items fixed it will rev and run correctly. Thanks for your help!
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Welcome... and you should start your own post.
The 2/5 thing is... well a good thing. That's pointing directly at the trigger. 2 and 5 share a trigger. I'm guessing the trigger is bad... but look over the wires too. They could be cut/chaffed at the flywheel.
I have no idea why they list that hose as +$200. It's just a rubber hose. I'm going to assume that Mercury really didn't want to have a baggy on the shelf with a 2" length of tube in it. So if they run the price up to a crazy point... people will just buy it off a bulk roll for $1. (lol)
The 2/5 thing is... well a good thing. That's pointing directly at the trigger. 2 and 5 share a trigger. I'm guessing the trigger is bad... but look over the wires too. They could be cut/chaffed at the flywheel.
I have no idea why they list that hose as +$200. It's just a rubber hose. I'm going to assume that Mercury really didn't want to have a baggy on the shelf with a 2" length of tube in it. So if they run the price up to a crazy point... people will just buy it off a bulk roll for $1. (lol)
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I finally put the aftermarket fuel pressure regulator in, I have about $35 total into it and a whole lot of sweat (it's averaging 95 degrees here). After a bunch of fuel priming, cranking and charging the battery it finally started!
It run really rough I'm guessing not firing on all 6. With hose water running, if it put it in forward and give it a little throttle (I know I'm not supposed to) it seems to smooth off. How does one go about testing the triggers? Just pull the plug wire and see if each has spark?
It run really rough I'm guessing not firing on all 6. With hose water running, if it put it in forward and give it a little throttle (I know I'm not supposed to) it seems to smooth off. How does one go about testing the triggers? Just pull the plug wire and see if each has spark?
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For anyone wondering, or anyone as cheap as I am.. here is how I fitted the aftermarket FPR. I very simply bolted it to the wall of the bilge, the gauge is a little tough to see, but since it's a set it and forget it deal I didn't mind fighting to see it one or two times.
The gauge was $20 shipped on ebay.
Fitting the lines to the fuel rail and vaccum lead were simple since they had barbs already. The tough one was figuring out how to get the return line to the vst, you can see in the photo where the old valve sat, it's just an o ring on a sub.
I thought about a few ways to do it and ordered a 5/16 weld on barb through amazon, it has roughly a 1" base.
I was planning to weld it to a plate I made but realized it just fit under the original clamp. I put it into my drill press and using some ferrous drill bits (mine have a flat top and a pilot center) I "machined" the bottom to the profile of the old valve. In my excitement I didn't get a photo of the bottom side and just installed it [emoji17]
New shorter screws and a new o ring, here is the result
The gauge was $20 shipped on ebay.
Fitting the lines to the fuel rail and vaccum lead were simple since they had barbs already. The tough one was figuring out how to get the return line to the vst, you can see in the photo where the old valve sat, it's just an o ring on a sub.
I thought about a few ways to do it and ordered a 5/16 weld on barb through amazon, it has roughly a 1" base.
I was planning to weld it to a plate I made but realized it just fit under the original clamp. I put it into my drill press and using some ferrous drill bits (mine have a flat top and a pilot center) I "machined" the bottom to the profile of the old valve. In my excitement I didn't get a photo of the bottom side and just installed it [emoji17]
New shorter screws and a new o ring, here is the result
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Nice work, and thanks for the pics.
OK... you say... "With water running". Is this on the garden hose... or in a lake? If you are on a hose... there's no load, and the engine won't clear out. I wouldn't worry about it being rough until you load it by putting it in a lake, and getting a little heat into it.
But... yes... the simple way to check things is to get a few in-line spark testers, and look at each wire for clean spark.
OK... you say... "With water running". Is this on the garden hose... or in a lake? If you are on a hose... there's no load, and the engine won't clear out. I wouldn't worry about it being rough until you load it by putting it in a lake, and getting a little heat into it.
But... yes... the simple way to check things is to get a few in-line spark testers, and look at each wire for clean spark.
I'll pick up one or two of the inlines, I was looking at them last night actually.
With water was on the garden hose, the vst was really nasty inside. Should I think about pulling and some how cleaning the injectors of any stuck crap from it sitting? I was told the boat sat for a little over a year. The brand new battery put in just before it was not used again was more like 4 years old, definitely sat more than a year, with stabilizer initially.
So far I replaced the vst pump, fpr, starter, steering control cable, fuel/water filter and all plugs. When it finally started it would putter and quit as soon as I let off the key, after a few attempts it finally stand running but stalled.
It seems like the more I start it, the longer it stays running. I assume that's a good sign, as though the garbage is breaking up, it's just really rough and I worry about damaging internals. I know cars pretty well, but never messed with a boat or a 2 stroke.
With water was on the garden hose, the vst was really nasty inside. Should I think about pulling and some how cleaning the injectors of any stuck crap from it sitting? I was told the boat sat for a little over a year. The brand new battery put in just before it was not used again was more like 4 years old, definitely sat more than a year, with stabilizer initially.
So far I replaced the vst pump, fpr, starter, steering control cable, fuel/water filter and all plugs. When it finally started it would putter and quit as soon as I let off the key, after a few attempts it finally stand running but stalled.
It seems like the more I start it, the longer it stays running. I assume that's a good sign, as though the garbage is breaking up, it's just really rough and I worry about damaging internals. I know cars pretty well, but never messed with a boat or a 2 stroke.
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Hi Dr Honda, I tested for spark on the boat I am not getting any spark (at idle) on port side lowest plug and starboard side center. I'm not sure what number cylinders they are.
I also have some unhooked wires I do not know what they go to or if they have anything to do with the misfire. See picture below.
I also have some unhooked wires I do not know what they go to or if they have anything to do with the misfire. See picture below.
Cool I just found a post from may where you explained it also. I'll check the wiring when it stops raining, I'm hoping it's an easy fix, and if the trigger needs replacing I hip that's the last of it. I told myself I wouldn't do the seats or detail it until it runs properly, and I'm getting tired of my own rule. Thanks Dr Honda.
[MENTION=16022]Dr Honda[/MENTION] I attempted to check the trigger wires today, lol they broke off at the harness connector as soon as I touched them. ... [/QUOTE]
Well... that would do it. LoL
I buy a lot of used parts... but unless it's cheap... I would just buy it new. They don't live forever, and you may have the used part fail too. But... if I found one for $20... I would give it a shot.
Well... that would do it. LoL
I buy a lot of used parts... but unless it's cheap... I would just buy it new. They don't live forever, and you may have the used part fail too. But... if I found one for $20... I would give it a shot.
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I ordered the trigger, brand new Quicksilver part. Found someone on ebay selling 3 (2 left) for $65. They had a random assortment of items possibly a liquidator.
I'll post the link in the for sale on ebay also
http://www.ebay.com/itm/262531005396
I'll post the link in the for sale on ebay also
http://www.ebay.com/itm/262531005396
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Hummmmmm................
The proper part number for our engine should be have an "A" and not a "T". BUT... the funny thing is... I can find that as being a part, but it doesn't reference to any engines. But, sometimes Mercury will change the letter as an upgraded part, or because there is a small change. (like the plug)
For that price... I want one to keep as a spare. But I'm not sure of what's the difference to the actual part listed for our engine.
Let us know what you find... and verify the ignition timing 100% !!!!
*****EDIT******
Even on Mercury Marine's web site... the part comes up, but doesn't reference to anything. If you swap it with an "A"... it pulls up all the engines it belongs to. (strange)
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I had called a local boat store and parts center, asked for it by the "A" part number and was informed it superseded to the new "T" number. So I searched ebay for the hell of it and found that listing. Photo shows it in the oem quick silver bag and had the small linkage included.
When I search the "A" number, half the results show both part numbers in the description.
The part is an hour and a half away, so I expect it to arrive via usps in 4 days ugh...
When I search the "A" number, half the results show both part numbers in the description.
The part is an hour and a half away, so I expect it to arrive via usps in 4 days ugh...
Found a second source for the cross here. It shows the old number as unavailable and new part as the cross.
https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_search.php?part_num=96455a18
https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_search.php?part_num=96455a18
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Sure... they update parts, and tweak the number all the time, but then the parts listings will show the old part number, and the update.
The really strange thing is... the only reference I find to that part number (with the "T") is an aftermarket company. They show their trigger plate, and say "It replaces 96455a18 and 96455T18".
Well.... for $65... that's half price, and I'm going to order it.
****EDIT****.
Nice find on the cross. But it's strange that it's not even on Mercury's site.
The really strange thing is... the only reference I find to that part number (with the "T") is an aftermarket company. They show their trigger plate, and say "It replaces 96455a18 and 96455T18".
Well.... for $65... that's half price, and I'm going to order it.
****EDIT****.
Nice find on the cross. But it's strange that it's not even on Mercury's site.
Ugh, changed the trigger out, getting spark on all 6, 125psi compression on all 6. Seems like it's running smooth but it still makes a clunking sound. Seems to go away when I give it throttle.
You can hear it in the bilge and behind the boat. I hope it's not a pump problem and wouldn't know how to check..
I have a video but don't know how to post it.
You can hear it in the bilge and behind the boat. I hope it's not a pump problem and wouldn't know how to check..
I have a video but don't know how to post it.
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