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Fuel Line Replacement and Seafoam?

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aquaman222

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I'm going to replace my fuel lines this week and was looking for a link to a good detailed walk through. It looks pretty simple with the exception of getting off the factory clamps. Also, is their anything to watch out for? Once replaced is it hard to get fuel pumping back into the carbs? Also, I don't want to rebuild my carbs at this time. Somebody has suggested seafoam? I believe it cleans out the lines and the carb. Does this work?
 
aquaman222 said:
I'm going to replace my fuel lines this week and was looking for a link to a good detailed walk through. It looks pretty simple with the exception of getting off the factory clamps. Also, is their anything to watch out for? Once replaced is it hard to get fuel pumping back into the carbs? Also, I don't want to rebuild my carbs at this time. Somebody has suggested seafoam? I believe it cleans out the lines and the carb. Does this work?
Click to expand...

No, if your ski is showing any of the symptoms of bogging down due to the effects of the gray fuel lines, Seafoam will not help. I tried that same route a couple years ago because noe having any experience working on carbs I was a little scared to pull them off. I replaced the gray fuel lines and ran through 2 cans of Seafoam. It did nothing to help. You have to take the carbs off and clean the filters. There is a great thread with a step by step on rebuilding the carbs, i followed those steps just to clean the filters. It was actually pretty easy.

If you replace the gray lines one at a time it is easy too. as for the factory clamps, i was able to pull most of the lines off with most of the clamps in place or carefully pried off with a screwdriver. there is a special tool you can get for those clamps if you really want it. make sure you use stainless steel clamps, some guys say they just use good quality zip ties. personally i just more comfortable with clamps on fuel lines but personal preference.

fuel flows after cranking for a couple seconds.
 
i took my carbs off for the first time yesterday i had them cleaned and back on the ski in less then an hour i was a little intimidated but once u take them apart theres noway of putting them back together wrong.my filters were gunked up and black you couldnt even see thru them.now im sure exp members are alot faster then that but id have to say i did a good job,now my ski revs up real good nomore bogging down.i also read seafoam breaks down your oil once it works it way thru the carbs and into intake so i wouldnt use it.if u decide to do it just handle the diaprahgms with care not to tear them and your in good shape.just spray carb cleaner on everything and you should be good to go
 
Going to ask a really dumb question....? I am new to Jetski's but have been around an engine before..... Why is everyone going through all this trouble but I never see anything about installing a pre-carb inline filter? Is there a reason there is no filter inline before carb? I bought 2 GTS 580 machines last week and one has an inline filter installed and other does not.... Guess what..the machine with no inline filter is running like a dog....machine with inline filter runs great......???? I am pulling off carb on machine with problems but will be installing a filter inline.... Any reason not too? Seems easier to replace the inline one instead of pulling my carb again if needed...
 
I just finished up most of my lines last night and I have to say the old grey lines did not look bad. Makes me think the previous owner replaced them with OEM parts at some point. I still have the little line to replace on the carbs and still considering whether or not to remove my carbs to clean them. This project intimidates me a little. I did notice a plastic connector on the fuel line going to the carb. Does this serve a purpose? Is it a mini check valve or something? I did not put it back in.

If I do remove the carbs, it will be for cleaning only. How difficult is it? I can see that I have to remove four screws on the base of the flame arrester, probably choke and throttle cables and I'm assuming four bolts that hold the carb onto the motor. What I'm concerned about is messing up any settings on the cables. I'm a total noob and so far I have pulled off replacing my wear ring, impeller and fuel lines without a hitch on my 96 XP, but my confidence is not real solid on mechanical tasks. I'm not a mechanic by any means. Just trying to teach myself right now. Any advice for removing that carbs would be great. I just want to make sure I can be reassembled by Friday for the holiday weekend.

This board has been a big help.

Thanks,
 
Also, what type of inline fuel filter would be helpful and where could I pick up one? Could this be found at Autozone or Advance autoparts stores?
 
I use a Purolator F20011. But just about any 1/4" automotive in line filter will work.

Lou
 
U dnt have to mess with the cables just unbolt the brackets that's holding them to carbs the only one you'll remove is the one holding the bar.if u remove the carbs first u can actually pull them outside the hull and make it easier to remove the cabling. I did mine for the first time this weekend it was really easy
 
Nemrod811 said:
U dnt have to mess with the cables just unbolt the brackets that's holding them to carbs the only one you'll remove is the one holding the bar.if u remove the carbs first u can actually pull them outside the hull and make it easier to remove the cabling. I did mine for the first time this weekend it was really easy
Click to expand...

Hey Nemrod, I have the exact pair of skis as you. love em.
 
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Huge piece of advice. While your pulling the carb, stuff a clean rag into the carb mouth (near choke butterfly) as soon as you get the carb off shove a clean rag into the intake manifold. Remove in the same order. Whatever you do dont drop anything down those holes. They go straight into the engine, PITA to fetch. Also take a good look at your carb mounting gasket. If its brittle or deformed replace, you do not want a air leak post carb.
 
GatorGreg said:
Huge piece of advice. While your pulling the carb, stuff a clean rag into the carb mouth (near choke butterfly) as soon as you get the carb off shove a clean rag into the intake manifold. Remove in the same order. Whatever you do dont drop anything down those holes. They go straight into the engine, PITA to fetch. Also take a good look at your carb mounting gasket. If its brittle or deformed replace, you do not want a air leak post carb.
Click to expand...

good advice Greg. incidentally I've been looking at your avatar for the past week trying to figure out what the heck it says and just finally got it. I kept thinking the "A" in Aint was as "R". That might get me the Idiot of the Day Award :dupe:
 
bigJake said:
Whoa, before you get the wrong idea Nemrod, that's a typo. It was supposed to say "love em". sure glad I caught that !!! :lol:
Click to expand...

Lol yea I was scratchn my head on that one. I also just picked up a 96 xp last week needs some work biggest part will be I'll have to do a top end job it'll be my first I'll prolly wait till winter before I do it tho
 
Yep, Closer the better. Make sure the arrow on the filter is going with the flow. I cut and installed near where my fuel line touched the hull floor. There was a ziptye anchor right there which work perfectly. Didn't have the filter vibrating or boucing around the hull. Also buy a clear one, that way you can see any issues.
 
Also, can I access the filter in the carbs without removing the carbs? See the state of my fuel lines leads me to believe my carbs are probably in pretty good shape.
 
That will work just fine. Only need 1, the other line is a fuel return to tank line, carries excess fuel back to tank also pressurizes tank , no need to filter that.
 
It is possible. but alot easier to just pull the carb as one unit, you do not want to drop anything underneath the engine, PITA to retrieve it. Also you can clean out any gunk you find int the carbs. Just dont use "Carb Cleaner" on any gaskets, orings or diaphrams, if you have to clean the non metallic parts try using "Brake Cleaner", it is not as strong (hot) as the Carb Cleaner.
 
Good to know about brake cleaner. I always thought it was tougher than carb cleaner.

I'm going to try to pull the carbs out tonight. I'm just real nervy about it. I'm mostly don't want to screw up my gasket. I don't have enough time to order a new one to put it one before this weekend. I guess I could just make my own gasket, but once again anything out of the ordinary for this newb is always a risk.

If I can keep from blowing this thing up until the winter, I'll be impressed.
 
Pulled my single carb off my 95 GTS 580 motor.....Cleaned out the filter as it had black stuff in it, also found that my oil injection line was cracked at the carb injection port, fixed that too...OK, just found free service manuals on the net on these Sea-Doo's, bottom line is the feed, thought so, installing a clear filter inline now too......
 
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Got everything back together, fires right up, can see the fuel as plain as day now right before carb so nothing will get into carb now and if it gets into my large see through filter I will know it quickly and carrying an extra in case.......
 
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