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Fuel Gauge
- Thread starter lmarkie74
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Theguyinmi
Member
What makes you suspect the gauge? In my experience 95%of issues with the fuel gauges relates to sender units. My two xpl's both had bad f1 fuses in the sender and my challenger had come apart in the tank and lost it's float.
I have fished out the float and end cap from my tank. I purchase a new float and have installed it in the baffle. Checked float to make sure it floats in gasoline. My 2 wires are Pink & Pink/Black. Testing with a multimeter, I get 2.2Ω with the float at the top position (FULL). With float at the bottom position I get 88.9Ω (EMPTY). This is all good. With the sending unit connector plug in, going to the MPEM, my fuel gauge shows 1/8 of a tank with float in the top of baffle (Full position), baffle turned to the bottom position I get 88.9Ω (EMPTY). Check continuity of wiring, it was all fine. No opens. After this I jumped the Pink & Pink/Black wire and get 1/8 of a tank. Should show full.
Guess I am one of the luck ones that just replacing the float and checking resistance and it's good doesn't happen. LOL!
Guess I am one of the luck ones that just replacing the float and checking resistance and it's good doesn't happen. LOL!
With the fuel gauge unplugged and disconnected from the MPEM. If I use a 5vdc power source and connect the "+" wire the the Pink wire on the fuel gauge and the "-" wire the black wire (ground), shouldn't the fuel gauge read "F"? Wire schematic shows my ground to be pink/black but in reality it is black.
Venturian1
Member
You got another gauge to try? pins can be moved, removed, in those connectors quite a easily with the proper tool, if you run across another gauge with a different harness connector.
then there’s eBay, where you can buy a used gauge.
How many amps does your 5vdc have to offer? Maybe not quite enough to move the needle to the full position?
then there’s eBay, where you can buy a used gauge.
How many amps does your 5vdc have to offer? Maybe not quite enough to move the needle to the full position?
I think you are on to something. Trying to not to buy a gauge on ebay. Saw one for $125 with a broken plastic face. Measured my 5vdc source last night. I am getting 19.9 mV (.02 vdc). I'd guess that it needs at least .5-1 amp. Pretty confident that there is some high resistance in the Pink or Pink/Blk (switched graound) wires going to the gauge, a bad pin, or MPEM.
With Pink and Pink/Blk jumped, my fuel gauge went to 1/4 tank. I lightly tap on the gauge and eventually the needle moved to fuel. Needle not working smoothly at all. Is this an indication of something unrepairable inside the gauge? The 4 leads at the back of the fuel gauge might have corrosion at the circuit board. Will these 4 leads unplug from the circuit board?
SeaDooDoo90
Member
Did you ever reach a conclusion with this issue? I have a similar problem on my '99 XP Limited. I wasn't going to bother replacing if a broken OEM gauge on fleabay was north of $100 but the prices have come down and there are several used OEM options, at least for the XP, for under $30.
I've tried jumping my gauge and cannot get the needle to move. The low oil light illuminates when I jump pink and black wires, but I cannot get the fuel gauge to budge with any other combinations of wire jumping.
Attachments
It ended up being the sending unit inside the tank. I bottom float stop had become unattached and fell into the bottom of the tank. I drained the fuel and fish it out with a coat hanger. I think I got a new float on Amazon. Assembled it back together and work get now. I'm selling the 1999 GTI 720 as soon as I register it. Everything works and has been completely rebuilt.
SeaDooDoo90
Member
Yes, it seems a defective float, whether swamped inside the pickup tube or laying in the bottom of the tank is the most common culprit. I'm not going to bother addressing the F1 fuse since I'm too nervous to cut into the pickup tube itself, but a float or gauge replacement I can deal with.
Were you ever successful in jumping your gauge? With your scenario, I now question whether the gauge is my issue. But it would be nice to rule it out for certain. I haven't checked yet, but am guessing my float is a goner as well.
Were you ever successful in jumping your gauge? With your scenario, I now question whether the gauge is my issue. But it would be nice to rule it out for certain. I haven't checked yet, but am guessing my float is a goner as well.
Sorry...I really don't remember. Been a few months and 3 jetskis to repair later. I really don't think it is your gauge.
SeaDooDoo90
Member
No worries.
I just pulled my pickup tube and the end cap was still attached, so no fishing down into the tank for me. I tested the float in some gas and am unsure on the results. It sort of floats? Almost all of it is submerged, but it doesn't fall to the bottom. I can confirm there was gas inside the float too.
Seems to me even if this is suboptimal floatation, it should still float enough to register something and not be pegged on E regardless of fuel level.
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Ohm the resistance when turning the float tube up and down. Manual should tell you the resistance.
SeaDooDoo90
Member
Good idea. I just ohm'ed it and had a constant reading of 1 throughout the range of the pickup.
Do the magnets on the float go bad? Or does this result confirm a bad F1 fuse?
Do the magnets on the float go bad? Or does this result confirm a bad F1 fuse?
SeaDooDoo90
Member
Just sent it and cut into the baffle. Slightly nicked the circuit board with my Dremel but other than that, the repair went well and now the gauge functions. Now to wait for my plastic welder from Bezos to get it buttoned up. Thanks for the help @lmarkie74!
An old soldering iron works fine too.
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