Flooding

WQQDY 59

Member
Have a 97 seadoo xp 787, first one. Ok issue I have is it kept dying on the lake, waited a few seconds and it would start right back up then die again. Thought it might have been a dess issue so I took it in for service, shop told me nothing wrong with dess. The shop said I need new gas lines and carbs rebuilt at $2400. Brought it home and proceeded with replacing the the grey lines with new black gas lines, pulled off carbs and rebuilt them with aftermarket ones. Machine started right up, so proceeded with taking it to the lake started machine and it ran for approximately 3 mins then died. Tried to restart but it flooded engine, now it won’t start just keeps flooding engine. Pulled carbs back off and inspected them and found diaphragm looked wonky. Kit came with 2 different thicknesses, I put the real thin one in. Did just research on the the thickness of diaphragm and it was listed in mukuni as .076 cm so I changed to that one but still have the flooding issue. What am I missing, any help would be greatly appreciated. TIA.
 
Rebuild the carb with the back to OEM kit from OSD marine, keep the original spring in the carb and replace the needle and seat. Set the high and low to factory specs,
 
Rebuild the carb with the back to OEM kit from OSD marine, keep the original spring in the carb and replace the needle and seat. Set the high and low to factory specs,
What do I do if I’ve lost the original springs, the kit came with 4 pairs of new ones and I chose the ones that were the closest to the originals. Does the Mukuni kits have the proper springs in them? Is there a way to do a pop off test without the proper tools. Sorry for all the questions as I’m a newbie to this. TIA
 
To What do I do if I’ve lost the original springs, the kit came with 4 pairs of new ones and I chose the ones that were the closest to the originals. Does the Mukuni kits have the proper springs in them? Is there a way to do a pop off test without the proper tools. Sorry for all the questions as I’m a newbie to this. T
OSD Back To OEM Sea Doo Dual Carb Rebuild Kit (1997-1999 787) [OSD1271] - $139.99
It does come with the spring.
They sell the pop off tester for a fair price at OSD as well or you can make your own and save a little with parts off amazon. You will need a T with female ends, a gauge 0-100 pounds, a schrader valve to go into T, and a brass fitting to go into T that will fit into carb fitting. I can take a picture of the one I made if you need it.
 
If you used the springs in any kits other than OSD they are the wrong springs.
If you bought any parts that were not Genuine Mikuni they will not run.
 
Okay here is a follow up to my question regarding flooding when trying to start 97 seadoo xp 787. So I purchased Mukuni kits with new seats and needles (1.5). So tried starting but still floods. What am I missing? Low is 1.5 and high is 0
 
Getting 40 - 42 on both, would that cause it to flood?
I believe 40 is a bit high actually I think spec is 29-39 don’t quote me on that but I run mine at about 32psi. if it is to high it would cause it to not start because it would not allow to get fuel. If you spray fuel down the carbs does it start up or are the plugs soaked
 
I read somewhere that the springs that came with Mukuni kit are the wrong springs. Is this true
I believe 40 is a bit high actually I think spec is 29-39 don’t quote me on that but I run mine at about 32psi. if it is to high it would cause it to not start because it would not allow to get fuel. If you spray fuel down the carbs does it start up or are the plugs soaked
The plugs are wet
 
I read somewhere that the springs that came with Mukuni kit are the wrong springs. Is this true

The plugs are wet
Yeah the springs that come with the kits are wrong. Osd parts sells the springs on it’s definitely flooding where are your foat arms set at they should be flush with the surroundings carb body
 
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Yeah the springs that come with the kits are wrong. Osd marine sells the springs on it’s definitely flooding where are your foat arms set at they should be flush with the surroundings carb body
Okay so what springs should I use (grams), and Steve thx for all the help……I’m a newbie to this. Can rebuild lawnmower, snowblower and chainsaw carbs in my sleep but these 2 are killing me.
 
Okay so what springs should I use (grams), and Steve thx for all the help……I’m a newbie to this. Can rebuild lawnmower, snowblower and chainsaw carbs in my sleep but these 2 are killing me.
No problem man. I believe the correct spring is the 80 gram but I’m not for sure but @mikidymac can tell you for sure. My first experience doing twin jet ski carbs was a pain as well but once you figure it out it easy
 
Follow through Mikidymac’s carb rebuild thread, not that it makes a difference but low says 1 3/4 out on Seadoo source, did you replace the diaphragm on the metering aide with the one from OSD marine? The aftermarket ones don’t work which could be why it’s flooding, did you check your pop off? Check to see if the carb holds pressure once it’s back together? Check that the needle and or seat is not leaking while your doing the pop off? Check that your fuel pressure relief valve is operational, could be pressurizing there fuel tank.
 
80 gram springs are correct.

If it is flooding then your needles and seats are not sealing. You need to do the pop-off and leak down tests in the Carb rebuild Thread.
 
One can obtain pop-off values if the needle or seat is leaking slightly, but will take a lot of fast pumping to get the pressure up there, and should be obvious that something is not right. Also, the pop-off test should be done again with the diaphragm installed and cover on, otherwise, the needle arm could be above the floor of the carb, and the diaphragm could be contacting it causing the needle to be lifted off its seat slightly, allowing fuel in. check syncronization of dual carbs too.
 
One can obtain pop-off values if the needle or seat is leaking slightly, but will take a lot of fast pumping to get the pressure up there, and should be obvious that something is not right. Also, the pop-off test should be done again with the diaphragm installed and cover on, otherwise, the needle arm could be above the floor of the carb, and the diaphragm could be contacting it causing the needle to be lifted off its seat slightly, allowing fuel in. check syncronization of dual carbs too.
Incorrect.
Pop-off should never be done with the cover and diaphragm installed.

You check for leak down with the cover and diaphragm on after pop-off and everything else is done.
 
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