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Mudford

Premium Member
Premium Member
I have a 2006 GTX 4Tec that I'm trying to get back to life after completely submerging it in seawater. The engine took in quite a bit of water so I drained the oil and replaced the filter. I understand that I may have to do this as many as 10 times to get all the water out. I got the motor to start it runs really rough. I didn't think that any water got in the tank but could be wrong, so I'm going to drain the tank and replace it with fresh fuel with water remover to get anything left in the fuel system.
The problem is I ran the engine to get the 2nd fill of oil to warm up the oil so I could pump the contaminated oil out and when I pulled the filter out it had collapsed. It was a cheap filter but there has to be a oil pressure problem. Could it just be the oil pressure sensor gone bad it was sitting in seawater or is there somewhere else I should look? View attachment 66462 View attachment 66461
 
if you drain the exhaust and intake systems of water first as explained in the service manual only one oil change and a boil out is all that is required
 
OK got service manual and the process is complex but doable. I'll do the procedure for boil out using the flush kit vs putting the boat in the water. A couple of questions:
  • I've gotten the engine started and it runs rough at a 4000 -5000 rpm with the flush kit on and water flowing and I've had it going this way for about 5 minutes. Is it safe to think that all the water is out of the intake manifold and exhaust?
  • How important is the use of B.U.D.S to monitor coolant temperature, I don't have access to one and the online manual is missing page 202 which discusses B.U.D.S so I don't know if there is a workaround?
  • The engine runs rough, won't idle and is probably in limp home mode. I have a new oil pressure sensor to replace the one in there that I think died when water contaminated and is forcing the oil circulation system to be shut down, should I install it with the contaminated oil or wait until the system is cleared out of water to install?
  • What is the purpose of disconnecting the drive shaft from the engine when using the flush kit? Is it necessary to do boil out?
Your help and insight is greatly appreciated.
 
You need to follow the service manual and get the exhaust and intake systems drained. You run the risk of water locking your motor by running it with water in it. I guarantee you have water in your exhaust muffler and probably in your intake manifold. Possibly why it’s running rough. Take the time and do it right. Use a thermal digital gun to monitor your coolant temps if no BUDS. Disconnecting the drive shaft saves the carbon seal from overheating during the boil out procedure connected to a flush kit.
 
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