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Exhaust Hose keeps ripping/tearing

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lamajama

lamajama

Well-Known Member
Hey everyone....I need a little help here. I bought the 02 GTX Di in my avatar and when I had bought
it that little "4 inch" piece of rubber exhaust hose (part 274000896) between the muffler and
the exhaust cone had a tear/rip/hole in it. I replaced it with a hose that is used for semi's - so the hose should be even stronger than the OEM hose. Maybe the OEM hose is specifically designed for these machines? (The one I replaced was an OEM one too...)

So I'm out on the lake halfway thru my holiday and the GTX starts running like crap. I thought it had gone into limp
mode and was freaking out. Monkeyed around a bit but couldn't get it to run right or even get to higher RPM's.

Short story long here but when I got home and was looking at it closer that new frigging hose had a rip in it! No wonder it ran like crap. In my brief experience with seadoos I've never replaced even one. I checked to make sure the plugs were correct so the machine wasn't running hot and maybe causing this but I'm running the right plugs but this is crazy. I can't have this happening all the time!

So....I'm obviously replacing it but has anyone heard of such a thing and can anyone steer me as to what the heck
is happening or causing this to happen - or is it just lightning striking me twice? I'm going to carry a replacement but
yeesh!
 
Hi Lou - yes it's part 29. Where would I get the Gates Vulco 24032 from? The hose I have does say Gates on it but I cannot make out the
remainder of the numbers.

I'm trying to post some pics that may shed some light too - particularly the inside of the hose. Not sure how to do this.



 
I should also say that the hose in the pic only had about 15 hours on it. Crappy weather limited my riding this spring and early summer.
 
If you can't find the hose locally you can get it from Amazon, however a major auto supply store should have it. NAPA, Car Quest, I don't know what you have in Canada. I got mine from KOI which is a parts supplier to dealers and auto supply stores, I happen to work for an auto dealership.

I can't tell from the picture if it's the same stuff, but the hose you have looks like similar construction, so you might want to check the water regulator.

Lou
 

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Thanks Lou. I'll make sure this hose is as good as the one you have but the damaged one looks so thrashed I think you're right that
it's another issue like the water regulator. I hate to keep asking questions but what should I be looking for with the regulator - something
plugged, out of "adjustment" etc?
 
Check for holes or perforations in the bellows, part no. 20, see post 2.

Lou
 
Hey lama, Im new here but have had similar issues with my ski.

By the looks of the second picture you posted i would definitely say the exhaust is overheating, not the engine, just the exhaust.

I have the same problem which i am currently working on, and what ive determined is that my water regulator was missing a spring that is crucial to its operation.

It may not be a spring for you, but i would check the water regulator lines going in and out, make sure they are not plugged.

Some how it looks like the exhaust is not getting water to cool it. ?!

hope this helps !
 
Thanks drewlox. I'll check that too. Anything and everything helps!

BTW - what part of Ontario are you in? I was born in Ontario and transplanted to BC Budville.....
 
Np Lama, im working on mine tomorrow so if anything else comes up ill let you know what i ran into.

Im in newmarket, about 30 mins north of toronto. i ride on lake simcoe.
 
A little south of me. I was in Bancroft. Well actually outside Bancroft. Bancroft was the "big town" we went to...:D

I'd be in heaven in Ontario with a seadoo. Nice lakes here just not enough of them. Of course no mosquitos or black flies
generally so that helps....(I do remember Ontario.....:D
 
I was just out your way last weekend, sort of.... went to Halliburton for some lake hopping.... so many damn lakes out that way....

anyways, tty soon
 
Just an update - replaced the hose with an industrial strength wire reinforced hose used on oil rigs apparently. The water
regulator appears to be OK - no perforations etc. The hoses were clear etc. Going to try and test on Sunday but
I doubt anything would happen that fast in any respect. I was hoping the regulator was messed up as that would
make me feel that a definite cause as to the pipe blowing. I am now carrying a spare chunk of hose....

If anyone has any other thoughts please feel free to express them.

Thanks to Lou and drewlox for their ideas. Really appreciated it.
 
Hey Lama, sorry to hear you didnt find anything, just wanted to clarify though that your regulator did have a spring in it ?
 
Yep. I was sorry when I popped the cap off and the spring popped out....I was hoping it wasn't there. Who knows - like
I said I just got the machine this spring and that hose was torn when I bought it so obviously I replaced it and this one
blew. Maybe - crossing my fingers it's "just one of those things"...I'm headed away for another week at the lake in 2 weeks
so I'll know sometime that week I guess....

You were working on yours today...see anything weird?
 
just put in the spring, and checked water lines to make sure nothing was clogged. everything seems fine, so for me im hoping my problem was only the spring missing. I can only suggest that you go through the schematics that lou posted and make sure all your water lines are on right ? actually try running water through them, you never know what the guy before you did, might have an inlet switched with an out ?
anyways, hope something comes up for you.
 
I'll review that too but I think I'm not going to get an indication of whether I was "successful" or not until I put 15-20 hours
on the machine. Even testing it for a few hours shouldn't blow the hose. If that happens something is really messed up...
 
i melted a hose in 20 minutes or less,and the outlet pipe too.after i finally got everything i needed(new exhaust hoses n baffle n outlet,used regulator),i put it in the water n started it on the trailer with the regulator out of the water box to confirm it had water flowing.it did.fix verified .that way i didnt "wonder"if it was ok.piece of mind went a long way.
 
Hmmm. Didn't know it could happen that fast. Well I will be testing it. What did you finally attribute the problem to Donkey?
 
when i bought my ski,it didnt have a water regulator at all.and the exhaust cooling system was misrouted.and the elbow for injection into the tuned pipe was plugged.took 5 trips to have it all right.was a slow learning curve,but these guys on this forum all helped a ton.i got most of my parts used from the same guys.and it saved a bunch of money.
 
LouDoo, thanks for the tip on the gates hose. I actually ordered mine today from West Marine But it is Shields brand, no wire.
View attachment 14263

I`m currently running Silicone hose good to 392°F, but a friend had said these do not like heat and vibration combined together and will only last a year... But I will also look into that gates hose as well, Thanks...:cool:
View attachment 14264

I`m also using T bolt clamps instead of the worm drive clamps...
 
Since I didn't see anyone bring this up, I'll ask the question.

Did you check the large bolt #34 in the diagram?
http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/sea...0AND%20MUFFLER

This bolt is notorious for vibrating loose, and then allowing the end of the tuned pipe to "wag" such that it can not only damage the rubber hose connector to the muffler but even the muffler itself.
I have even found this bolt in the bottom of the bilge, wondering what is this for.
When this bolt worked loose and fell out on one of my 2001 GTX DI Seadoos, it allowed the tuned pipe to "wag" enough that it broke off the inlet piece to the aluminum muffler right at the weld.
Although Seadoo doesn't call for it, I put blue Loctite 242 on the threads of this large bolt, and haven't had any further problems. A friend who is a seasoned dealership Seadoo mechanic told me that he always tightens that bolt on any unit like this that comes in for any service.

When the connecting hose is leaking or the muffler inlet is broken, the resulting leaking exhaust asphyxiates the motor so it sputters and dies.
 
DooWacka said:
Since I didn't see anyone bring this up, I'll ask the question.

Did you check the large bolt #34 in the diagram?
http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/sea...0AND%20MUFFLER

This bolt is notorious for vibrating loose, and then allowing the end of the tuned pipe to "wag" such that it can not only damage the rubber hose connector to the muffler but even the muffler itself.
I have even found this bolt in the bottom of the bilge, wondering what is this for.
When this bolt worked loose and fell out on one of my 2001 GTX DI Seadoos, it allowed the tuned pipe to "wag" enough that it broke off the inlet piece to the aluminum muffler right at the weld.
Although Seadoo doesn't call for it, I put blue Loctite 242 on the threads of this large bolt, and haven't had any further problems. A friend who is a seasoned dealership Seadoo mechanic told me that he always tightens that bolt on any unit like this that comes in for any service.

When the connecting hose is leaking or the muffler inlet is broken, the resulting leaking exhaust asphyxiates the motor so it sputters and dies.
Click to expand...

DooWacka, do you mean Part #244004060 Socket Head Screw M10 x 40 (Scotch Grip) ?? Your link didn't work. Thanks for the
input and I think you're on to something here. I just got back from a ride and although the replacement hose was cool to the touch and
everything went well, I did notice that there was a change in the "angle" between the exhaust cone (#36) and the Muffler (#27). When I
put the new hose on the pieces aligned straight on and now there's a slight offset between the two. Is this what you mean by "wag"??

I was attributing this to the normal torque of the engine.
 
Sorry the link didn't work, it was an attempt to show the link that Lou showed you early on here.
Again, maybe : http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/seadooforums/showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=seadoopwc&A=150&B=2&modelid=2002%20Sea%20Doo%20PWC%20GTX%20DI%20ENGINE%20SUPPORT%20AND%20MUFFLER

Yes, the large M10X40 is the part.
If the bolt is loose or gone, the end of the tuned pipe is not supported there, and since it is quite heavy it will vibrate with a fairly large amplitude, or "wag" from the higher support (part #4) another M10X40.
Reach back in by the starboard side of the hull and feel for the head of the bolt. If it is still there you need an extension for your metric hex head socket to tighten it. If it is gone look down in the hull for it and the other associated parts (maybe only 17, but possibly 6 and 5).
 
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