exhaust cooling system problem

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Seadoo-Lover

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Hey guys, my damned 98 XP Ltd is making trouble again! - This time it is the cooling system :ack:
Had already the prob that one cooling line got damaged by the hot exhause that melted a hole in it. That was the reason why my rear exhaust-hose-connector (connection to waterbox) exploded. http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=26900

I replaced the water line and the hose and flushed the engine. Everything looked great,no water leaks and flush-water came out of site and rear outlets as supposed. Took the ski for a testride and the rear hose exploded again.
This time another water line of the exhaust melted.

Replaced the water line again and towed them up to ensure it wont happen again. I even ordered a brand new OEM hose to ensure it wont happen again this time!
Yesterday ski run great for at least an hour, then I quit cause I had water in my bilge and haven't fixed my bilge pump yet. Wanted to check the rear hose if it is broken again, but it wasn't. Looks like I fixed the prob. Just burned my finger intense when touching the pipe clips cause they were that hot.

Today I took the ski to the river again. Warmed it up slowely as usual and drove it for about 90min with a few stops. Then it started to bug around again. I checked the rear of the ski and saw it was 1/3 filled up with water flushing out of the brand new rear hose! It's broken again:ack:
Checked the front pipe water lines and all are fine this time! Beeper didn't gave me any overheating signal either, so should be working...

I know it is the cooling system. But why does it look like it should if I flush the ski?
How can I check the cooling system? Would it work to try to flush the lines with compressed air, or could I damage anything doing that? Thought already of pulling the exhaust water lines during I flush the engine to see if they work... but am not sure if you can do that?

So please give me some help how I can get these bug fixed.

Thx already forwarding guys!

Greetings from Germany:cheers:
 
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burning exhaust connection

Pull the ECWI (WR) and check that.

It will change the timing of when water gets injected into the pipe, which changes the performance a bit. It will not make your boat faster, but is an aid to the accelleration curve. Typically, the WR red cap is the opposite of where the RAVE caps are set. So, if the raves are adjusted outward, the WR cap in adjusted inward or vise versa. Adjusting the WR spring tension valve will either just delay or speed up when the valve opens. It can get destroyed internally.
For 951 engines it should be fully tightened in the cover bore. at that setting the pipe is dried out somewhat allowing the engine to rev higher.Changing the adjustment will only change the amount of water that is injected into the headpipe. Having said that, if you were to actually completely pinch off the water line from the regulator to the headpipe, the exhaust chamber would overheat and melt the hoses. That's about as catastrophic as it would get. The engine itself (or the cooling to the engine) would not be affected at all.
Bills86e
 
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In reply to your PM:
Take apart the water regulator and carefully inspect everything in it. Make sure there are no holes in the bellows and everything moves freely. More than likely you have a plugged fitting or water line that goes from the water regulator to the exhaust pipe. Make sure you can blow through the brass elbow fitting in the pipe. Once you get it all sorted out, you can turn the red adjuster all the way in to get better acceleration or all the way out to get better top speed. You'll gain about 50 - 100 RPM. As Bill stated, the RAVE valves do not affect top end or bottom end.
If you've installed ECWI (Electronically Controlled Water Injection), take apart the electrical solenoid that controls the water injection, it could be sticking.

Chester
 
think I dropped a clanger

Thx for your answers! -Damned time differenz, was repairing yesterday and read your answers today lol
I repaired the hose yesterday afternoon and even was that stupid to turn at the setting of the water regulation valve at the waterbox. - When I finished I flushed the engine and noticed a leak in another coolant line that is closed by a screw (don't know why the former owner did it - probably he had an ECWI installed). But anyhow I guess that those leak was causing my problem, so I fixed it. But I had already changed settings of that valve!!!:rofl:
I tested the ski today and everything was bullshit!
I had no power and the ski didn't go over 4000 rpm! Besides that the muffler was damned loud! It used to be loud before already, but only at lower rpms or when it was cold. Tryed to change the settings of that valve... tried, tried and tried, but still don't get it!:confused:
Don't know what to do anymore! Don't even got the stock settings for that valve. I hoped to see a german pro freestyler at our place to ask him for help...but didn't see him last weekend:(
 
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Your problem is the exhaust is getting too hot & melting the hose due to lack of water.

Small black hose that connects by the exhaust bracket in the belly of the pipe is either clogged or the water reg on the muffler is not working. Disconnect the hose and use a wire into the nipple to dislodge a clog. Air chuck the nipples, you would not hear air if clogged.

Feel the hose from the muffler to the hull outlet. Any soft spots could mean internally delaminating.

only 4k. Use an ohmeter on battery at that rpm, if 15VDC or more the Rectifier is toast.

Man....I hope this does it for you! Bill
 
guess I found my problem...

Hey guys,

thx for your answers again!
Had some time last week to give another try on my damned cooling problem... tried to adjust the water regulator valve a few days ago for about three hours! Without getting to fix my prob! The exhaust is still getting that hot that water is vamporizes if it drops on it.
Today I checked all water lines if the are blocked - could blew threw all of them. Even the inlets at the pipe are free... During I blew compressed air into all lines I noticed the WR valve was leaking and I heard the membran clicking. Started to blew the air from the rear (at water reg. valave lines) without any probs. So I srecwed of the WR and opened it. It looks a bit wet-rusty, with some but the membran it self seems to be ok. Found some hardened rusty chunks on it.
I guess that this valve isn't working any more and causing all my probs! I was just thinking about ordering a new WR, or what do you guys think?
 
We think that the problem will be fixed, and you saved a ton of money doing it yourself.
 
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