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Engine start issues

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Some skis had bearings where they pass through the hull. Not sure if this is the case with boats.

If so, the bearings can seize and create a locked up engine as it can't turn over. I'm sure someone will jump in and confirm if this is even possible in your case.

If it were me, I'd pull the pump and the shaft so that I KNEW nothing was stopping the engine then see if you can crank it via the starter and by hand.

With this information you will know for sure where the issue is.
 
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If you cannot turn it by hand with the spark plugs removed, then either:

1) The engine may be seized, or
2) The starter bendix may have seized, or
2) The jet pump impeller shaft bearings may be seized.

In this case, I would begin disassembling the jet pump, beginning with the oil chamber cap to see if there is water inside. If there is water inside then there's a chance the impeller shaft bearings may have seized and the jet pump should be removed and rebuilt.

Hopefully the engine isn't seized.
 
I am going to take a big guess on what is going on here, I read through the thread, and it seems that your engine locks up with the spark plugs in, but when you remove them and crank it, it turns then locks up. Did you notice any oil shooting out of the spark plug hole; you may think its gas. If so hydra lock is the most likely cause. The motor has oil directly injected at the crank shaft, there is a seal that keep the oil in place, and its integral to the shaft, this seal starts to leak, and oil is scavenged in to the pistons, the pistons then Hydra lock. You can remove the sparks plugs, crank the engine and clear the oil, and dump fuel into the piston, once it starts, the gas pump will catch up - because the pump is run by the engine vacuum pulse, gas will start flowing, and the oil will burn out, and the engine will run. You can pinch the line that goes to the shaft before you put it up, and that will keep it from building up in the crank while the boat sets. My advice is to get the engine rebuilt, to fix this problem, the engine needs to be unassembled, and the crank shaft replaced, like I said the seal is integral to the shaft. You may as well rebuild it while it’s apart, do the carbs also. Pulled the carbs while the engine was in, and my back is still sore, and there are a couple of bolts setting in the haul somewhere, lol.
 
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If your engine is full of oil you can remove the plugs and turn it over by hand and you see the oil all over the top of the pistons. If the engine only sat a day and did this with the oil you need a new engine. A 96' might still have the bearing assembly instead of the carbon ring. Some people did convert back to the bearing also. You will see a grease fitting on the drive shaft if you have a bearing and it could be failing making it hard to turn. Also your bearings could be going out in the jetpump also if you see no blockage in the jump and the engine is clear of oil.
 
I installed a shutoff valve on my oil lines to prevent this issue. Mine would hydrolock after a few days and I was loosing 1'' oil in my tank per week. I pull the spark plug cables as a reminder to turn the oil back on before starting. Mark your oil tank and see if you are loosing oil.
 
I installed a shutoff valve on my oil lines to prevent this issue. Mine would hydrolock after a few days and I was loosing 1'' oil in my tank per week. I pull the spark plug cables as a reminder to turn the oil back on before starting. Mark your oil tank and see if you are loosing oil.

Smart to remove the wires.. It would be an easy and costly mistake...
 
Yes I was trying to find a way to make it foolproof and that was the best idea I could think of. It forces me to open the engine compartment as a reminder.
 
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