You know, I understand what you guys are saying about and air leak, but aren’t there other reasons why the engine could rev out of control or idle high? Like a bad TPI? Or too much voltage going through the TPI making it think it wants to go higher? Or maybe a bad diode? What are the other reasons. If I find the crank seal is good how could it exhibit this behavior? I mean, if the engine is computer controlled, and there is an air leak, how does the computer know how to stay “in time” with the air leak? The whole thing is screwy. I did find those hoses and they all look fine. Of course I didn’t unplug them and blow them out or anything though.
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Engine runs high idle/medium revs without lever action 2003 challenger X
- Thread starter Hawk111
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Only one butterfly valve. Seems like you are not that familiar with the 240 jet, but more about engines in general. Can you tap your resources for actually mechanics that could help me diagnose? I’ll post spark plug pics next.
Shortrun
Well-Known Member
You are right about that.
Your version of the 240 is very different from the version I have. So I have learned.
Checked all plugs. They seem a bit oily which makes sense considering there is oil/oily fuel at very bottom of throttle body/intake manifold - down by were those wires come in.
I replaced TPS and the linkage seems very finicky and very sensitive. The little wheel arm on the TPS doesn’t always stay perfectly down. Half the time it doesn’t even go back down all the way. It gets pretty close those and then returns to normal idle.
Changed Crank seal. Turns out it wasn’t even bad. Just looked bad from certain angle. Luckily was a success. Still have the surging problem.
Looks like it’s back to the book.
Could be:
1: a bad throttle body/fuel rail gasket
2: fuel pump diaphragm leaking
3: VST flooding over
4: finicky TPS connectors not dialed in
Thoughts anyone?
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Shortrun
Well-Known Member
Wow, this is not an easy one.
As a test, I wonder if you could disconnect the TPS from the linkage, leave the wires connected. Make sure the TPS is at the idle position. Then start and idle the engine. So the throttle linkage can not move the sensor. I have never tried this, so it would be something you could consider.
Did you ever check Air Intake sensor ? could be checked with an ohm meter
It is know to fail. Maybe not with the symptoms you have, but might be worth a check.
As a test, I wonder if you could disconnect the TPS from the linkage, leave the wires connected. Make sure the TPS is at the idle position. Then start and idle the engine. So the throttle linkage can not move the sensor. I have never tried this, so it would be something you could consider.
Did you ever check Air Intake sensor ? could be checked with an ohm meter
It is know to fail. Maybe not with the symptoms you have, but might be worth a check.
That is a beautiful idea. I’ll just pop the TPS control arm off and let it idle. If it’s a steady 5 minutes on garden hose, then I’ll have found the problem. I could even do it when in the water.
Have not done a test on air intake sensor.
There is a dead spot when I move throttle lever forward - maybe I’ll replace that cable as well. Probably don’t need to. I guess all I can do is keep analyzing the linkage, spacing for now.
Rebuilding VST, throttle body, fuel pumps, and fuel rail isn’t going to be my favorite considering they’re all hard to reach.
Have not done a test on air intake sensor.
There is a dead spot when I move throttle lever forward - maybe I’ll replace that cable as well. Probably don’t need to. I guess all I can do is keep analyzing the linkage, spacing for now.
Rebuilding VST, throttle body, fuel pumps, and fuel rail isn’t going to be my favorite considering they’re all hard to reach.
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