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Engine removal
- Thread starter miller347
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Officially, yes.
The engine can be shifted left right twist as well as up and down.
If you are putting in the SAME block and have not moved the shims, it is as good as you will be able to get it without the tool.
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The engine can be shifted left right twist as well as up and down.
If you are putting in the SAME block and have not moved the shims, it is as good as you will be able to get it without the tool.
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It is same engine, I didn't take it off bed plate so only thing I was worried about is left to right alignment and not so much the up and down
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Joe is right. Officially yes, you need it.
But, if you take your time, and understand what needs done... you may be able to "eyeball" it. Just be aware... the farther off center you are... the faster you will eat the splines on the shaft, PTO and/or impeller. OR... in a bad situation... you could just break the shaft, and in turn, break the hull, or pump.
OK... look at it this way... the price of the tool is a lot less than the price of the replacement parts later.
Oh... and the comment of "It's the same engine" doesn't always apply. I assume you didn't own the ski since new, so you have no idea what has been done to it in the past.
I have reinstalled my engines without the alignment tool without (as of yet) ill effects. Same engines, only 1 engine had a shim originally,I eyeballed the placement best I could, and shook it pretty good and watched for what "seemed" to be the best centered location. So far so good. (2 years ago)
I'm a pretty lucky guy, so your mileage may vary.
I'm a pretty lucky guy, so your mileage may vary.
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This is my idea and tell me why it would NOT work........ I am going to hook everything up, hook up driveshaft and impeller and all..... Leave motor mounts loose...... Start engine up and the vibration should in theory settle the engine
"I would rather be hated for who I am than loved for who I'm not"
"I would rather be hated for who I am than loved for who I'm not"
I'm not so positive the engine is going to stop at the best spot.
You could jiggle the engine and bolt it down where you thought play was most even between the two directions. Perhaps shake again after turning the shaft/PTO by hand a few times?
This is all sinful and heresy, not for the faint of heart, but that's what I would do (in fact what I did)
1800chall_tim
Active Member
call me crazy but could a person take a laser pointer that was evenly wrapped in electrical tape (as so it friction-fit into the pump like a bore sighter in a rifle) tape over the end of the pto and draw a target on it
bolt up the pump-then all you would have to do is move the engine until the laser is on the target and shim accordingly...
bolt up the pump-then all you would have to do is move the engine until the laser is on the target and shim accordingly...
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
THat's and EXTRA bad idea. A 2-stroke will shake, and WILL NOT try to center itself. More likely... it will shake off center enough to cause damage.
If you want to Eye-ball it... then manually move the engine... up/down, Left/Right, and twist... and estimate the best center.
People do it all the time... but like I said before... the price of the tool is less than the replacement parts later.
I agree totally.... But I probably never use the tool again.... Hopefully hehe
"I would rather be hated for who I am than loved for who I'm not"
Isaac-1
New Member
You may want to check out this thread http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?78795-Inexpensive-engine-alignment-tool-DIY Your mileage may vary, but it seemed to work out for me to confirm my engine was correctly mounted when I had to pull the pump and shaft to change the carbon seal.
The laser idea was talked about heavily in the past. General thoughts are it would not work as you can point the laser to the target from many angles that would have the drive shaft off-center still.
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DeanBrantley
Active Member
Issac-1s link to the other thread is spot on. I bought the rod and bushing from McMaster and Carr and used them a few days ago. I had a impellorless spare pump housing so I didn't have to mess with my assembled ones. The bore for the needle bearings is over 18mm so I used about 2 ft of standard aluminum tube and slid the 18mm bar insdde it, has about 0.010 worth of play. 25 bucks worked like a charm
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