Embarrassing question...

[scooper77515]

96XP

I don't usually work this way, but since this part required a special tool, I had to ...

I put the impeller back on and started screwing it in (red locktite added), when it got too hard to do by hand, I used the shaft with vice grips attached. But there is no way to measure exactly 52 ft/lbs doing it this way.

It turns, but is tight. I can turn the impeller by hand, but I need gloves to keep it from cutting me, so it doesn't just spin freely. I just cranked it almost as hard as I could (trying to picture how hard a 50 lb bag of feed would feel hanging off it, so just guesstimating).

How sensitive is this measurement? Will it mess it up if 5-10 lbs over or under?

Can I use slack/endplay to get a better estimate?

Please don't tell me I need to buy the tool...it is over an hour drive to get it...but I will do it if I HAVE to...

And ALSO...the carbon ring...is it just a mechanical seal that will seal up with water and not lube? I used to use them in the machine shops on some of the stainless steel vacuum pumps and compressors, and want to be sure using no lube will not mess it up.

 

[kustomkarl]

PM sent//// Sorry for delay...busy at work all day..

 

[scooper77515]

Good idea you PM'd me. I really should have thought of that myself...

Still need answer on carbon ring lube or no?

 

[kustomkarl]

No, it should go right in place.

 

[dieselman]

The best way I find if your stuck is use a pipe wrench tape off a two inch wide section on the shaft turn the impeller so the pipe wrench sits on a block of wood and is tight on the taped shaft and wood then torque while watching to see the pipe wrench didnt slip. This way there should be no marks on your shaft.

 

[scooper77515]

Oh well...I give up...

I will just make the 2 hour drive to buy the $12 tool...I tried to get it right 3 times and it just ain't happenin'.

Will they have this thing in stock or will I have to order it?

 

[seadoosnipe]

Stock item...

I'd call first Scott, but more than likely, since that axial flow pump is used on boats and pwc's alike, I'm sure this would be a stock item. I ordered mine the same time I ordered the synthetic pump oil and my bearing kit. As for the torque.....I didn't worry about it. I tightened it down "tight". With the Locktite, I didnt' think I would have to worry about it.......I haven't had a problem with it yet.
But I think I told you in the beginning, that was the one tool you've got to have. I know someone said they had an old shaft layin around and they just cut the end off......worked for them.
That impeller, when you put it all back together, you should be able to spin it over with the tips of your fingers. And there should be axial (back and forth) movement when you push/pull on it. If not and it's hard to turn, you may be binding something up..............

 

[scooper77515]

I could not move it without some force and some gloves on to keep the blades from cutting me, and there was no play in it. So I decided to do it again...

I was worried that it would eat up my bearings if I tried to run it that tight.

 

[scooper77515]

So, would I be safe it I just cranked it down and left .010-.020 endplay? Just enough slop that I could feel it moving a little?

That would keep me from having to buy the tool, since I have the dial indicators.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Washer.....

Scott, did you take out the shaft from the housing when you removed the impeller? If so, did you put the washer back on? If you only tighten it snug, or with 1000 ft. lbs of torque on it, it shouldn't have any effect on your end play.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Shaft...?

If you remoed the shaft, then chances are, you removed the thrust washer and the thrust bearing. The two roller pin journal bearings are pressed, so they can't just fall out. When you put your shaft back into the housing, put the thrust bearing on first followed by the washer. When it slides through the housing, then screw on your impeller.......that's it. It should never be tight. You should be able to push and pull enough to hear a little tinking sound or barely feel it move in your hand.
Oh, there is the possibility that your impeller is rubbing against the wearing ring. If this is the case, then you can look and try to identify where it's rubbing and take a piece of sand paper to it and try and smooth it out a little.

 

[scooper77515]

Oh, there is the possibility that your impeller is rubbing against the wearing ring.

The washers, bearings, etc are all where they belong. I didn't remove any. The leftover oil is holding them where they belong by surface tension.

I think my problem came when I didn't get all the old lock-tite off. So when I started to crank it down, it pinched a chunk of dried up lock-tite between the impeller and "something" causing it to bind. There is also a little bind of rub on the wear ring, I think, but i don't see a scratch on the ring. So it might have just been the lock-tite binding.

I am done for today, and will try it again tomorrow, and see where I end up.

The information I have gotten here, though, has me seeing it in a better light, and I now have a better idea on how to approach reassembly...

 

[scooper77515]

Surface tension---when I pulled the shaft out to clean off the threads, the thrust bearing stuck to the shaft base, and the washer stuck to the housing due to the stickiness of the oil on the parts.

I guess I didn't clean the threads off all the way down to the end where the collar is, causing the bind with the leftover lock-tite...

I will see tomorrow when I get a "Fresh head" and go at it again.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Sounds good....

That sounds very probable Scott. Take it back out tomorrow and look for any signs of binding, or anything (like Loctite) that may be keeping you from going all the way down.
I usually clean all threaded surfaces with a wire brush or the like and then, run my threads out with anti-seize. Then, before loctite, clean out with brake parts cleaner.

 

[scooper77515]

Wire brush

I cleaned everything with a wire brush, including the length of the shaft (excluding clean areas that are in contact with seals, etc.) to knock off any rust. I especially cleaned out the splines. But did not originally do the threads (DUH :ack so I am pretty sure that is where I am binding. They are clean now, and I took the shaft out, and made sure that I could run the impeller all the way down by hand easily. So I am confident that it will go in fine next time, with only friction being potential touching on wear ring.

I am still going to try to find that splined tool if someone has it in stock. I just don't want to crank on the shaft anymore...

 

[scooper77515]

I cleaned everything up, and put it all together without any lock-tite and it went together just fine. So I put lock-tite on and ran it up and it seems to be cool. It turns by hand now, so I put it all back together and after the silicone cures, it should be ready for a test drive in the water.

Not only that, it doesn't rattle as much when it is running dry...not sure if it is put together better or if the new wear ring is holding it more steady, or what. But it doesn't make so much noise when it is running out of water.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Cool!...

That sounds really cool!....I think you got it. Wasn't that hard, was it? I did about the same thing you did, except I had the impeller removal tool. I didn't torque it, but I used Loctite and just tightened it down.
I see you opened another thread to thank everyone for their help, so I'm going to close this one. Good luck and it you've got anymore problems (knock on wood that you don't), then feel free to open another post. Thanks go out to "dieselman" and "KustomKarl" for their advice.:cheers::hurray: