Drive Shaft Removal Issue!!!... HELP

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Does that part go between hull and pump? I have a rubber (silicone) one and it seems to be really snug and in good shape. My conclusion was right... The PTO end of the drive shaft had worn splines... Looked at the "PTO Plate" and noticed the splines are probably not the best either.... So I'm thinking I need to replace it as well. The carbon seal/ring seems snug in its hole... It isn't tight around the shaft but not sure if it is suppose to be... Also I'm discouraged that a couple o rings and etc can cost $60+... Seems silly to be that expensive.

So I'm looking at buying: shaft, "shaft kit" (o rings and etc) and that pro plate... Fun fun!
 
I ran outside with grease gun in hand as soon as I saw this thread, climbed into the back of my boat and shot the PTO grease zerk 3 times till the shaft moved backwards. I think it needed a drink of grease, those grease worms that live in the splines must've eaten it all again!
 
When I took mine out I noticed the plug (bumper) on PTO side was not there and the pump side was toast... If these two little pieces of rubber can cause this failure then it's totally worth the time to pull out the shaft to inspect them. Two 5 dollar plugs can cause $200 worth of parts... Lol
 
Does that part go between hull and pump? I have a rubber (silicone) one and it seems to be really snug and in good shape.

The seal will go between the impeller housing, resting against the wear ring and the pump support plate. The pump support plate usually is silicones to the fibreglass hull, which you will not need to remove for the job at hand.
For some reason it seems they did not install the neoprene seals on all the skis, nor do they show them in the parts manual. It is still recommended to put one in there it helps with cavitation. If you have one in there and it is in good shape you are good to go.
The red arrow shows where it will go on the impeller housing.
 
When I took mine out I noticed the plug (bumper) on PTO side was not there and the pump side was toast... If these two little pieces of rubber can cause this failure then it's totally worth the time to pull out the shaft to inspect them. Two 5 dollar plugs can cause $200 worth of parts... Lol

Yes, it's important to have both plugs installed, so be sure to check that! Sometimes the plug can get stuck inside the PTO, need to check in there and dig it out to put it back in the driveshaft.
 
Yes, it's important to have both plugs installed, so be sure to check that! Sometimes the plug can get stuck inside the PTO, need to check in there and dig it out to put it back in the driveshaft.

My sportster was DIW last sunday right by the ramp... pulled the shaft and the splines on the PTO end were shot and the bumper on the PTO sided was absent and the bumper on the pump side was SSHHOOOTTT!... looked at the PTO flange and the splines were marginal at best... just spent $340 for the new shaft, PTO flange, shaft kit (o-rings and etc) and next day shipping. To be completely honest i think that is one hell of a deal... seeing how OSD and many other places didn't have some of the parts and shaft in stock were higher priced...
 
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Yep, parts for these are not really out of line but it does still add up.

Was your PTO spline dry of grease or does it look like it just finally wore out? Alignment is important of course, the straighter the better, and of course engine mounts that move around will add angle, which is undesirable.
 
Yep, parts for these are not really out of line but it does still add up.

Was your PTO spline dry of grease or does it look like it just finally wore out? Alignment is important of course, the straighter the better, and of course engine mounts that move around will add angle, which is undesirable.

They weren't dry but not lubed the best (I've only owned mine for about 1.5 months)... the rubber bumper on the PTO side was AWOL and the one on the impeller side was mashed flat... I've heard conflicting statements about those bumbers... some say they aren't needed at at... and some say they are there for a reason... I had a pump bolt come out on me so the 10 hour suggest maintenance list encourages checking all the boats... i guess that is an every time i go out inspection...
 
I think I would prefer to have the rubber drive shaft bumpers, under the premise they help to keep the splines centered. I haven't taken my pump off the hull yet, have done the oil and was glad the bolts came out without damaging the threads. LOL, you're supposed to use locktite blue on the threads before installing the bolts but I used anti-seize compound. I rarely ever experience lost bolts, unless maybe the threads let go in which case a helicoil would be the solution. Maybe I have special touch for knowing how much torque is enough, rarely strip threads unless they're already well worn.

So if you lost bolt(s), did you follow the factory spec torquing procedure, did you use a calibrated torque wrench (not a chepo harbor freight wrench, but something verifiable to a national standard and recently calibrated by an authorized shop to the standard), and did you use fresh locktite of the correct type as specified in the service manual? Did you use new fasteners, including new lockwashers (technically speaking, lockwashers are a one-use item)

I have to admit I do like reading and following factory procedures but as far as torquing and fastener selection goes I have my own established procedures and rarely have problems but I pay attention to the troubles others have so I know what to look for. For instance, the exhaust manifold assemblies seem to be tricky, to the point where it's important to use new fastener hardware and of course new gaskets. I don't want water in my engine if I can avoid it, so that's the one area where I would follow the factory procedure as closely as possible, because it's so critical.
 
I hadn't removed any bolts where i had to torque them or add loctite until now... my parts will be here in the morning and will be getting loctite... I'm like you... know about where to torque bolts... i was in the aviation industry for years and kinda learned the feel of torques...
 
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