drhonda, found out what was up now i need your advise or anyones

[Chico]

the neopreme seal is way to thick and its keeping my pump from pulling into the hull, does seadoo sell more that one of these style seals? the kid went in the bcak and grabbed it so im not sure if he got me the right one or not, the seal cost me 7.45 and on sbts website my seal should only cost 3.75 the seal they sold me was really thick id say mine was 3/4 of an inch thick, the pump torques down fine to the hull without the seal, can i run without it or use silicone, dont the newer pumps run without a seal, i noticed the nozzle isnt factory it has the bailer tubes on it so maye the pump isnt stock either, any suggestions? thanks fellas

 

[1800chall_tim]

i just received the neoprene seal from sbt for my 1999 challenger. it is about 3/16" thick not compressed. 3/4 inch seems way to thick regardless wether or not the pump is stock. Tim

 

[1800chall_tim]

the seal you need is part no. 76-101-08 from SBT. its the seal they sent me for my 1999 challenger 1800. the site doesn't list one for my boat so i called and they swore this one will work for me. i wouldn't consider running without a seal. search the forum, there is alot to read on this subject.

 

[Chico]

ok just got off the phone with the local seadoo shop they are great and he said to put the pump on snug the nuts down then start the boat and tighten the nuts in a criss cross pattern while its running and it will be ok, that its a common problem with the plastic pumps and thats how they deal handle it, anybody else ever try torquing your pump this way?

 

[1800chall_tim]

WTF, the neoprene seal that i got in the mail is for a 1996 seadoo challenger and it is 3/16 inch thick not 3/4 inch. i am going to step torque it like you stated and use it anyway. i don't think 3/4 inch will compress enough on my pump.

 

[Guest_User]

ok just got off the phone with the local seadoo shop they are great and he said to put the pump on snug the nuts down then start the boat and tighten the nuts in a criss cross pattern while its running and it will be ok, that its a common problem with the plastic pumps and thats how they deal handle it, anybody else ever try torquing your pump this way?

I`ve never heard of that. I do know the pumps get a little distorted when fully bolted on bc they are plastic. I`ve always pushed the pump on making sure the impeller is lined up correctly with the driveshaft splines and push the pump in and stat the washers/nuts. I hand tighten in a criss cross pattern then torque in 2 steps.

WTF, the neoprene seal that i got in the mail is for a 1996 seadoo challenger and it is 3/16 inch thick not 3/4 inch. i am going to step torque it like you stated and use it anyway. i don't think 3/4 inch will compress enough on my pump.

I`m confused? when you guys say 3/16 or 3/4 thick do you mean wide or the actual thickness of the foam seal???

someone post some pics>>>
I have 2 seals that came with wear rings from SBT and they are correct for the 98

 

[Chico]

well i did just like the tech said, put the seal on, used soapy water on the wear ring hand snugged it down, started it then tightened in a criss cross pattern to 26 ft lbs, in about 5 steps, after each step the engine would lug just a hair then spit out a little fine black powder from the wear ring until it was completely seated then i shut it off and crawled underneath and i wcould wiggle the impellar indication it wasnt binding, so it worked, i hit the fire button and it fired right up, shes back together now so at first light im taking it out for a run, i still have to put the seal in for the exhaust where it goes through the hull, heres a question, on the back of the boat on the right side there it an out let for the bilge and one for water from the head, should the one from the head be plugged like the top one below the hatch? thanks fellas you guys totally rock, i hope everything goes great tomorrow

 

[Chico]

my seal was 3/16 thick also and 3/4 wide, it is the right one for a 96 challenger, they double checked it today

 

[1800chall_tim]

this morning i installed my new wear ring and tuned up impeller, then with my neoprene seal in place i aligned the driveshaft splines and pushed the pump housing in and started the nuts hand tight. i then torqued it down in a criss cross pattern using 4 steps. i did the torquing without engine running, then started engine. once running i could hear the impeller in contact with the wear ring just slightly. i let it run for about 15-20 seconds then shut it down. i then re-torqued the nuts holding the pump housing on. 2 of the 4 did need more tightening. fired it up again and the scraping noise was all cleared up, when i looked into pump from both sides there was only very little sign of the impeller rubbing on one side of wear ring. took it out on the water this afternoon......no more cavitation,no vibration, more lower end response, and i know my speedo is not exact but it used to say my top speed was 49 and now it says 53.

 

[Guest_User]

this morning i installed my new wear ring and tuned up impeller, then with my neoprene seal in place i aligned the driveshaft splines and pushed the pump housing in and started the nuts hand tight. i then torqued it down in a criss cross pattern using 4 steps. i did the torquing without engine running, then started engine. once running i could hear the impeller in contact with the wear ring just slightly. i let it run for about 15-20 seconds then shut it down. i then re-torqued the nuts holding the pump housing on. 2 of the 4 did need more tightening. fired it up again and the scraping noise was all cleared up, when i looked into pump from both sides there was only very little sign of the impeller rubbing on one side of wear ring. took it out on the water this afternoon......no more cavitation,no vibration, more lower end response, and i know my speedo is not exact but it used to say my top speed was 49 and now it says 53.

Good job! :cheers:
I find that on the plastic pumps, you could go back and yet torque them back into spec still. It squishes the plastic. I stop at 2x checking the torque going around in a cross pattern with 2 clicks of the wrench.